Anderzander

I’m going to aim for the September one. The 80” should be done then - and I’m planning to travel in it with the wife and daughter 😊. I could do with looking at how we might make that happen....

It was the one I linked to ... a Hypro V5-60. Here’s some pictures: (Apologies one is upside down) I’d forgotten how heavy the valve block is - it’s a serious piece of kit 😮

Thanks guys ! @Blanco - I think you have 2nd dibs? @Escape - I haven’t got as far as a price, but whatever is fair for us both? Shall I pull the block and valve out and put some pictures up in here? If there is anything you want me to look at or check, just let me know. Stephen

Here’s mine - I also swapped out the crimps.

I fitted mine on the side of the heater box - in the gap between it and the wing. Initially the Allen bolts proved slightly too long and were stopping the fan rotating ! Slightly shorter bolts though and all was well.

Good stuff Ralph - and how do you find it in operation ?

I have a solenoid block and an over centre valve from a Milemarker type-R set up to sell. A V5-60 from memory: https://www.red-winches.com/products/hyd-sol-valve-single-60lmin/12/ where is the best place to sell it? Is it eBay or somewhere like the Devon 4x4 forum? Its been sitting around for ages and I could do with turning it into some money to help keep the 80” restoration going.

I’ve had one of those for a few years - I think I put a thread up for it ? I love it ! It’s one of those small mods, like a programmable wiper delay, that makes a huge difference to how easy it is to drive every day.

The bends are ok - my only concern is if the olive has moved and changed how deep the tube goes in.

I’m late to this - but the answer is no.... My plan was to use the 3OO tube with the 200 nut - but the 300 tube is pressed steel with a flare at both ends, so I can’t slide the nut on with an olive to nip it up. I’ve gone back to the 200 and it’s now bent in a kind of S shape.

Interesting to read that - I spoke to a chap recently who bought a pair of their series doors and sent them back. They gave him the money back so quickly that he took it that they must be used to having them returned.

I love the stop motion stuff ! And it is a USP ...

Ain’t that the truth about modern tractors !

I may have missed it - but out of curiosity- why SOUP?

I would think most people do watch to the end !? I certainly do and they way you put them together lends itself to that....

Bugger ..

I think it’s pretty certain they’ll make one. I’d imagine as soon as they saw people paying Khan and Twisted £70k for one they thought it’d be a goer. Even if they don’t do the utility bit - they’ll look to compete with G-Wagen - as both a profitable Macho Urban ‘truck’ and to laying claim to their heritage as the makers of ‘the most capable 4x4’.

This is on Land Rovers site: World Land Rover Day is on 30 April. To watch the broadcast and take part in the celebrations at 20.00 BST see our YouTube channel and use the hashtag #LandRover70Years WWW.YOUTUBE.COM/LANDROVER

I wonder what the price range will be ? I’m sure they will have some super expensive G-Wagon rivals - but I wonder if they will have some pared down utility ones on at a fair price?

You said something at the end there (if I caught it right) that sounded like you were worried about popularity ? and whether the content was to blame .... just keep going, you’re doing a great job.

Do you have any photos to show what you have?

Unfortunately I sprayed the inside of the garage wall, the inside of the door, and half a work bench covered with stuff 😯

If your mate doesn’t want it and you’d split it I’d buy the engine ! I think they are going for quite strong money - especially the 15p motors.

Could you share the link on Amazon please ?

I get that it shifts the point of weakness - but I’m trying to get my head around what the relative component strengths are....so whether in the vast majority of situations the HD bars don’t bend and the impacts are still low enough that the rest of the set up can cope with it. I fitted mine on the basis that in the laning I’ve been involved with I’ve seen standard bars bent, which haven’t been easy to straighten in situ in most of those occasions, but on those with HD bars I’ve never seen a ball joint or swivel break. So I’d assumed that the failure point of the standard bars was such big distance from that of the rest of the components that I could safely operate in that space... if that makes better sense!?