Anderzander

OK - Yes please! How can I send you the postage?

That shield has a couple of brackets riveted to it that aren't standard and looks like its been extended forward with an extra plate - also if you look at other pics on that photobucket account its had some welding done on the exhaust flange and a different turbo fitted

I have a 99MY Td5 ..... What is the Electric Library ? do you mean microcat?

I could do Lancaster to Manchester ....

How is this going ? I'm still in hope for a subsequent Td5 one!

I'm not sure there is any substitute for years of neglect..... but if you paint it with cellulose and build it up in thin coats and then don't cut it back - it will look a bit flat and rough. Or if you paint it on a really hot day it will dry 'too' quickly and look a bit past its best.

I'm sure an adult will be along shortly, but are they not self bleeding ? have you left it running with the lid of the tank?

Starting like that you've got a fighting chance at keeping the rust at bay .......

The dip switch often melts inside - check that out.

It does look good The only thing that puts me off is the number of vehicles.

Lol - What a result!

I presume you need to match the type? I think the ECU has different settings for early and late model ones, from memory 2 position and 3 position pots?

Quite a complex shape really with the curve and tilt to bring it square. Well done :-)

Debate !!? On a Forum !?? who's heard of such a thing !!

I know some Honda's, Mercedes and Audi's use chain driven oil pumps.

They would have been witness to a terrible scene I fear ...

The one labelled 'fuse box / engine compartment' is the one under the drivers seat. What are you actually trying to do?

looking good.... and I usually put the tools down on a day like that, to avoid wrecking something.

This is the wiring diagram for the '99 to '02 Defenders. Wiring Diagram - Defender td5 (1999).pdf

They fitted different fuse panels depending on the spec of the vehicle.... The sticker on the back of my panel was correct and differed from the various manuals I looked at - and when I looked at parts books there were different part numbers for different stickers. Mine is a 2000 TD5 - what is the spec on yours?

So much good advice here it should probably be an FAQ for 'how to sell your land rover'

Looks like you got a good finish with the sparex I've been using the hammerite rust converter stuff - its white and then reacts with the rust, turning blue and finally finishes up black. It seems really good - even if you leave it with no top coat it'll still seem to last for going on a year. So I've been having a roll around underneath finding the corners and crevices. I've also used Owatrol oil - in some places as a neat paint over - though it's easiest to use as a thinners in paint. Its very satisfying work.

The point must be that it's departure angle improves without the overhang.

Great - post up some photos of the engine bay spruce up if you will

Found it ! ....and surprisingly it was the spring plates on both sides of the front axle being loose .... There was no play to be felt by hand, but all four bolts were all quite loose when checked with a spanner. The symptoms was a loud clunk/thunk that from inside: sounded like it was from around the transfer box - and from outside: a noise that was hard to trace except to say that it sounded like it was above the front diff. It clunked when coming off the power when going forwards - and when sharply applying power in reverse. I'm amazed such a loud 'thunk' could be generated by something so innocuous. ...... [sigh] what a relief to get rid of it.