Peaklander

I feel the same and maybe it's a case of thinking you're a member and actually being one. How to make that leap though... that's the question.

You can always use a little fm transmitter. These plug into the headphone jack on your phone and re-transmit the output on a selection of fm frequencies. It’s very low power so only your in car radio will receive. Tune the radio to the same frequency as the transmitter is displaying. Skip to another frequency if you get interference from a proper station. The one I used to use had five output frequencies and they were all preset in the car system. Like this https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.co.uk%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F261578442024

A cheeky non technical method, if you can find the LR part number from the book, is to type it into the search field at www.lrseries.com. Their site part references are very detailed and almost always give the thread and length. If you feel guilty you can always bob an order into them for something.

You are sealing against water ingress and if it leaks it's direct onto your feet. So as Western says, I'd use a sealant.

I had a pleasant surprise today when i discovered that a second Stratford-upon-Avon show is being run this year and it’s in just four weeks. See http://www.adventureoverlandshow.net/adventure-overland-spring-show/ I don’t have any connection, just found it great to wander and look at different setups.

Yes you're right, it was that one but it is back up on another server now - that's how I've got my old thread back

It was Lrseries. If I remember correctly I talked to Dominic there who apologised and said that it was very old gen stock that had been on a shelf for years. I suppose that I could have given it a good clean-up but instead I just asked for a replacement as I was a nervous newbie about the whole job. The earlier pics were of the replacement that they sent with no hassle at all.

This is the first new, genuine 3rd/4th synchro that I received. It came in a LR box but I returned it because I thought that its condition wasn't what's expected of a new part. However you can see the shape of the unworn teeth and the chamfers are there too .

This is the main-shaft rear bearing, with the reverse shaft location on the bottom left and the layshaft to the right. Also a pic of the cradle that I copied from Log Rover.... t

Locking the main-shaft can be done by selection two gears simultaneously - one of 1 & 2 and one of 3 & 4 by sliding the selectors across by hand. (it's mentioned in the thread I linked to). As for removing the main-shaft, it must be a bit tight in the bearing that it passes though at the back. Can you tap the end with the locknut still in place on the end? It's been a while and I can't remember whether mine was tricky or not. You will need to make some sort of cradle on which to mount the main-shaft on the bench. Otherwise working on it will be hard. Have a look at that log-rover site as there's one shown. I'll post a pic if I can find one...

Got the pm thanks. The references I used to guide me were the gearbox parts book (search the internet), a great site at http://www.log-rover.co.uk/ and plenty of help on an old forum which has been resurrected at https://www.lrukforums.com/threads/siii-gearbox-overhaul.75646/ I only ever looked at that forum back then. It was @Cornish Rattler who once said “I’ll post pics on the other forum”. He was referring to this one and indeed it was easier to post on here at least back then. That's why I moved over.

The 3rd/4th synchro springs get mashed up once they are loose inside the box. Mine ended up mainly as paste and got into the 1st/2nd ring which has three tiny slider plates and balls. If you split the main case and the bell-housing, you can access the 3rd/4th ring to change it. However to clean and possibly replace the 1st/2nd you have to split the transfer box off and remove the mainshaft nut, lift out the layshaft and then the mainshaft. Then it becomes a bigger job but at least you will then find where the tooth has come from. I have plenty of pics as I did this for the first and only time about ten years ago. Here are a few but forgive me if I've made any errors as it's been a while. The view into the front, looking at the input gear and the 3rd/4th synchro ring. These pull off their shafts, the ring has a bearing carrier in the middle. Comparison of old and new 3rd/4th synchro. Note the missing springs and the almost worn down wear surface (inside) on the old one. The dog teeth are quite worn too. Mainshaft nut at the back of the gearbox. Make or buy a deep castellated socket to undo this and especially to re-tighten afterwards. 1st/2nd synchro with paste in the slidy bits... New one I think... Old and new to show the wear in the dog teeth I don't think that the missing 3rd/4th springs are a showstopper, unless the mashed-up paste from them is the cause of your 1st/2nd selection problem. I would try to sort the missing detent ball but then if you do need to delve deeper, I hope these pics will encourage you to as it's not as daunting as it might seem. More pics available!

This is it. Pic taken towards front of rear wheel arch. The anchor bolt for each side’s seat inertia reels goes through to that stiffener. Edit: I should say that I mean the anchor at the end of the web that forms the lap belt.

Here’s the follow up thread that I couldn’t find...

You’ve been able to buy direct from Marsland then?

Hi I saw your question earlier but was trying to find another thread in which the discussion continued. I couldn't find it from my iPhone and thought I would be able to from base but I can't! The gist of it is that some seals refused to locate at the base of the stem and someone on here (in the other thread) suggested a loctite variant to hold them in place. This is what I did and that worked. Meanwhile I talked to Freida Turner at Turner Engineering and she said that on a 300 TDi head, due to the shape of the casting, there was little chance of significant oil gathering in the base of the stem where the seal locates (and thus leaking through to the compression chambers and burning to create the smoke). In fact she said it was far more likely to be another cause and not even blue smoke that I was seeing. (Engine was at about 100K I think). She also said that it was very hard to find good quality seals and even though I had got genuine ones it didn't automatically mean their quality was good. They had come from LRseries. The excessive blue smoke that I had seen on completing the job was due to the seals not locating properly, that's true but I never did get rid of the blue ting which seemed worse at a frosty morning cold start. In fact the single biggest improvement I made, was a slight advance on the timing, from the standard position obtained using the timing pin (9mm drill bit) into the pump. I had read that over time there is wear on the contacting surfaces between pump and cam and as this develops over time, the effect is to slightly retard the timing. So I reset it using a smaller drill bit which makes for a looser fit in the hole and so allowing a slightly further twist clockwise of the pump (advancing the timing). This seems to reduce smoke generally and to be honest this probably had more of an effect than any work on the stem seals!

I met a guy the other day who is working on various Land Rovers and he has had RR petrol engines restored by http://www.hallbeckengineering.co.uk That might give you an alternative to check.

Great to hear but where's the promised build thread?

If you mean plumbers mait, it doesn’t stop moving! It tends to dribble, slowly, downwards!

Yes the older circuit uses a single bulb whereas the later have two. I thought I had a copy of the older diagram in my iBooks on this phone but I only have the newer one. You can probably fit a diode on each side to prevent the cross feed but without the diagram that’s all I can advise.

Yes DumDum is great and luckily I have half a tin left but I also use silicone like this RTV which some won’t like but it behaves well and can be peeled off / out. However I do like that tape ^^^^^

Rattler I’m glad you’ve got a week off and can crack on. I’ve been waiting for your updates 😀

I think it’s very unlikely that your chassis is wrong. As Marsland once told me, “our chassis are made by the factory who make them for Landrover so are as near to original build as we can get.” I’d take that to be positive!

Tucked right down in the bottom under all that, there's no wonder he had (has?) trouble with raging torrents. ...and yes, lets have some pics of the vehicle, please

Well done for sticking at it and getting a result. I guess you have forgotten to plug in the switch connection. I have no details to give you except this quick search result