Peaklander

I have two Sprinter bottle jacks and they are perfect. The handle is in three parts so packs away nicely into a little pack. Why two? Well the first wasn't flat under the base so I told the eBay seller and they sent another and didn't want the first returning. I need to get it flat somehow.

I thought I'd add to this thread based on instructions I got with my recon 300TDi turbo. Simplified, they read as follows. 1. Don't connect the oil pipes 2. Engine oil change and fill the new filter before fitting 3. Manually add oil to the turbo oil feed port and spin the blades by hand to coat the bearings, top up more if possible 4.Remove connection to stop solenoid and crank engine for 10s, catching oil from the top of the feed pipe. Let starter cool off if necessary 5. Crank again for 10s and continue until plenty oil flows, then connect feed pipe to port on turbo with banjo and copper washers 6. Now crank again and catch oil from oil drain. I was told that the flow is about 300ml per minute so there should be a reasonable quantity in 10s 7. Re-connect oil drain. Don't do what I did and disconnect the bottom end, as it's too hard to get in there. It's better to reconnect at the two bolts and gasket under the turbo The instructions expressly state not to crank until the oil pressure light has gone out as that's not a reliable indicator or good oil flow through the turbo I hope this is OK. Please correct me if necessary. It's what I have read, not what "I know". I have had to follow the turbo people's instructions to be sure I don't damage the new one. They are pricey after all.

Hi, you have the full Ctek set-up with their paired units that will do almost anything; the D250SA and the Smartpass. This is all you need and a bit more besides and the wiring is a simple as it gets and is detailed in the booklet which you will have been sent with the units. You probably didn't need the Smartpass as you won't have a service battery capacity of >100Ah will you?Here is the wiring which is self explanatory and you just need to decide if you are going to define any "critical" items and if so, they go direct to the service battery as it says.

Decision made for me because as you'll see in my build thread, my turbo is NBG and that will divert some funds.

As I didn’t like the guy and he wasn’t the person he was supposed to be, I wasn’t really concentrating when he started it up. However it revved with a massive roar which he thought was brilliant. I’ve never heard one before but it sounded as though it was a massive dog pulling on lead, just waiting to be released. Not much refinement. Sellers interest has waned since I said it was too expensive but I haven’t done what a good negotiator does and made a counter offer.

😀 I don't know what to do. I didn't see the person I was expecting to see, I did photograph the V5 but the listed owner certainly isn't who I saw. I guess he's a trader and might be OK. I heard the engine running (sounded very throaty) maybe that's correct and they do sound rather loud. The price has dropped to £800 without me asking. The vehicle isn't roadworthy as it's missing a nearside front light having been bashed and also the offside rear cluster is missing. I certainly wouldn't be buying it as a runabout until such times as I do the swap. So apart from the encouragement I have already received, what should I do? Offer something effectively 'just' for the ecu, harnesses etc. the runing gear and engine / and boxes, righting -off the rest of it as scrap? If so what should I offer for an unproven engine (which appears from MOT recorded to have done about 135K miles)? Also how do I handle Mrs P's " we don't have room". Find someone to hold it for me till I can strip it and get rid of un wanted bulky parts? Asking the audience is always the best way.

Great discussion! I’m going to view but Mrs P isn’t happy as I don’t have anywhere to store it except out on the drive. I have to drive past the seller anyway so why not. I’m not sure what to look at in order to check it over (for power unit rather than as a runner) but it does have an mot so not difficult to get it home. Guess I’ll first see if things match as I don’t even know what the stated engine should look like! Of course I intend to drive the 300TDi for the foreseeable.

This is a lazy question but I know plenty of peeps on here will have the answer instantly. Someone near me has a D2 4.0 V8 (petrol) with manual box for sale as a runner with spring conversion at £850. Is this a potential future engine swap for my 300TDi or is it a no go? Thank you in advance.

I was lazy but as I don't open them, I ran a bead of black RTV along them between glass and runner. You can't see it and they don't rattle. It's not a direct answer but it might help in the meantime.

Don't forgot to report back!

Buzzweld now doing a GIO (Galv in one) which is even more suited to a galv chassis than their CIO (Chassis in One) which is great. GIO is direct to new galv and doesn't need the Mordant-T etch first.

Yes that's the TD5 position. I have a 300TDi but the pedal lock was fouled by it so I changed to TD5 and mounted it there.

If it is all ok technically then I’d probably think about either a much smaller deposit or getting it now (in spite of house move). Paying half with nothing except a piece of paper might be a bit risky.

To get the plates will their letter do or will you need the actual V5?

Whoop!

A high current path that isn't connected. Definitely worth looking at.

It's really that they are both drawing power from the battery. The whole vehicle is a set of "loads" all connected to the battery, mostly all in parallel with fuses protecting each, just as your lights.

I'd say there's a bad connection somewhere, this could be on the feed or earth side or your 6 mo old battery isn't happy. I'd start with a voltmeter on the battery (a handful of £). Then try the obvious earths such as chassis to transfer box and big thick battery negative to chassis or wherever it goes. There's a small earth high up on the RHS of the Transfer box and another on the bulkhead near the pedal boxes. You could also clean-up the 12v feed from alternator to chunky fusebox in engine bay. That would be a start...

^^^^^ i knew that the original switches the 12 volts or whatever the alternator delivers at any point but I'd always assumed the switched is much quicker. The output is a nominal 10V but I don't know how to work out what the "chop" frequency would need to be. (I might have known this at a point in the past but I've forgotten now). Is it really only 1Hz or less - just for interest?

Why do people moan when they haven't a clue what the new Defender will look like? It's pure speculation that it will follow the SUVs even though it's apparently going to be a Defender, which has never been one.

^^^ this. I did the same on my 88 and even put the regulator in the little box that the original one was in.

There is a light bar...is this a recent addition?

I think that the voltage is getting pulled down somewhere at a high resistant connection or it might be the battery itself that's showing signs of old age and taking a moment to recover when a heavy load is applied. To try to isolate the problem to the wiring you could disconnect each of the four outputs in turn at the relays. So pull one of the connectors off pin 87 so that you cut out N/S dip then O/S dip then move to do the same to the mains. That would also reduce the current required anyway so it might not be a fair test but could be worth a try.

It sounds as though that permanent live is suffering from a volts drop as you switch on a heavy current load like the lights or beam and then it recovers a split second later. Have you used good thick wires capable of carrying the current the lights demand?

What's that "thing" lurking in your roof trusses? Is it an interesting knarly branch?