dave88sw

britpart have never made anything that fits as it should. I try my best not to buy any of their stuff.

If it's red, it's from the gearbox and probably the rear mainshaft oil seal (pig to change). If it's yellow, it's ep90 and coming from the transfer box, probably the input seal, a bit of a pig to change as the transfer box has to be removed but not nearly as bad as the gearbox seal. Hopefully that helps a little.

Sorry, it's not that simple. Disco lt77 and r380 are the same length overall with the bellhousings on, however, the r380 is longer in the gearbox itself and therefore has a shorther bellhousing and input shaft. The lt77 bellhousing would be too long. It's not a lot of work to fit the 4 bolts, the kits are unneccessarily expensive, all you need is 4 m10 x 80mm cap head bolts. Then a counterbore to open a hole for the head to sit in. To be honest, a standard drill bit sligtly bigger than the bolt head would suffice, it would leave a tapered hole but the bolt would still tighten up happily.

It wouldnt leak in the discovery as the 4 big bolts you would have removed between the engine and gearbox went right through the flywheel housing and into the ladder frame, sandwiching the lot together. When fitted to a different gearbox, these bolts can't be put back in. The solution is to counterbore the holes in the flywheel housing and insert the bolts flush to the surface so that the gearbox can go over the top. http://www.glencoyne.co.uk/tdiguid2.htm explained in detail there.

That is the original cruise control vacuum operator. Without the pipes the cruise control won't work. The hole in the back door is for a subwoofer, these often failed and were removed but you might find a working second hand one, is the original head unit fitted? A lot of people remove them because they can't figure out how to make it work with an aftermarket head unit.

Just put a 200tdi from a disco in a 90, literally finished today. Read the various conversion specialists write-ups. Specifically glencoyne and steve parker. The clutch pipe bracket on the footwell needs to be moved, to be honest, there is so little room on the side of the footwell i would be tempted to repipe it under the engine (with suitable brackets fabbed up) and put the flexi between engine and master cylinder. Have a look at your flywheel housing, do you have 4 allen head bolts at the bottom? If not these must be fitted or the flywheel housing will leak oil like a sieve (explained in detail on glencoynes site). I strongly recommend you clock the turbo to give you some room to get the intercooler hoses on, it is possible without but it is very tight to the inner wing.

As said, if it came back even slightly it will be hydraulic, the cylinders are about £25 each and it's worth doing both together regardless of which one has gone (the other won't be far behind). Bleeding them is an absolute nightmare, i've never had any success without using a pressure bleeder, the last one i did i reverse bled it (pumped fluid through the bleed nipple back to the reservoir). Hope that helps

If they're cut to shape well enough you shouldnt need anything to hold them still, although it depends to an extent how thick it is. I have a 12mm thick stable mat in the back of mine cut to size and there's no way that will move about.

These lights will flash when you have a fault with the xyz/position switch on the gearbox. You say the car won't start, will it crank? If not, the 2 problems may well be related as the switch may not be telling the car that it is in park. Is the gear you are in displayed in the speedo? It should say P,R,N,D etc dependent on which gear you select.

the spring is in the switch assembly itself so if you buy a new switch unit without the barrel it should solve your problem

it is a throttle position sensor that is only there for the egr system, if you have removed the egr, you can remove the tps.

seized propshaft uj? had much the same symptoms when mine went, mine went from having no play at all to just flopping about waiting to drop out in less than 50 miles.

we put a disco box in my dads 110 and although the speedo drive is technically the wrong one now for his tyre size it actually reads more accurate than it ever has. However, if you do need to remove the drive gear and the housing is stuck, the only way ive found to do it without damaging the housing is to remove the complete rear output housing from the transfer box so that you can get to the back of the speedo drive to tap it out with a punch. Hope that helps Dave

Hi, i've got a series 3 that i'm in the process of converting to 300tdi power. Just finished rebuilding the engine and would like to put the drive belt on before it goes in. I'm not running power steering though, so something needs to be done with the pump. I've actually ended up with 2 pumps so i decided to pull one apart to see if it could be converted into an idler (removing the pump and running a shorter belt would massively reduce the wrap of the belt around the alternator pulley). I reckon the pump would work absolutely fine as an idler, having pulled out all the bits that make it "pump". My only question is what would you fill it with for lubrication, i can't make my mind up over filling it with grease and sealing the inlets/outlets, filling it with oil and sealing it up, or sealing just the threaded output and attaching a rubber hose to the pipe stub and running that to a simple reservoir with a vent to allow it to breathe. I favour the last option as i think it would pressurise and leak without a breather but what is the forums opinion? Some pics to show what i mean: The inside of the pump with the rear case removed With all the innards removed Put the locking pin back in to prevent the plates turning Take this piece reinsert it simply to act as a spacer for the shaft support bush plate place the support plate back in then replace the back cover. Any suggestions are welcome thanks, Dave

All diesels do that, i wouldn't worry about it. I can't think why you'd want to leave it idling for that long though...

take the 2 pipes off that feed the heater from under the bonnet and push your garden hose in the end nice and tight to effect a seal. Run the hose and then change over to the other pipe, keep reversing the flow and you'll probably find a huge amount of carp comes out.

I've always liked the NFU, they may not always be the cheapest but making a claim really is easy and they don't mess you around.

I'd just buy a good second hand door, complete if i were you. Would certainly be the cheaper option if you can find a good one

as the others said, throw it away and blank the egr valve, the engine will thank you. As for crawling underneath to get at the nuts, sod that. 4 screws hold the black cover plate to the top of the seatbox, with that out you can reach all the nuts from the cabin

You need to check over the various sensors with a diagnostic computer, the ecu determines how much fuel to add at any time, based on the information it receieves from the sensors (air flow, lambda etc). My guess would be faulty lambda sensors.

Depending on how long you left the lights on, the battery could be very low, you need to have a running vehicle connected for a few minutes or put the battery on charge, connecting up a charged battery via jump leads won't work because the vehicles drained battery will take all the power.

long hooked pick? if you can see it you ought to be able to hook it out.

Are you missing a fan blade or something? Had a shogun that would "hunt" at idle, was simply an imbalance caused by the fan missing a large chunk of one blade.

ah yeah, spose that would be better for getting into the gutter. Cheers

thanks guys, ill get some wire cup brushes and set to it then .