dave88sw

I'm looking to fit some aftermarket gauges to my land rover but i'm a bit confused as to what to buy. Basically i have a defender binnacle and so have 3 52mm holes to fill, i already have a sunpro voltmeter and would ideally buy a water and fuel gauge to match but i can't find a supplier of a similar style gauge. So i think the best compromise is to just buy a water and fuel gauge of a similar style. There's plenty of choice out there but can anybody recommend a good supplier at a sensible price? Also, i realise most temp gauges have a matched sender, but ideally i'd want to use a defender fuel sender with the fuel gauge, looking on vdo's website, they say their range of gauges can be used with "all different types of tank sensors", is this correct for most fuel gauges? i'd guess the range of the variable resistor that forms the level sensor is similar for most senders? Otherwise i'm happy to fit proper defender gauges, but are all defender gauges the same or do they differ for different engines, i'd guess the gauges are all the same and the sender is matched to the engine. Thanks in advance Dave

The door catch assembly is the same, so just move the complete unit across. The lock barrell etc is contained in the unit. I think the check strap is the same but dont hold me to that. The door aperture seal is the same so nothing to change on the car. Everything else is different unfortunately.

first off, does the gauge still rise with the ignition on if you disconnect the wire to the sender? If no, then id blame the new sender, is it britpart? i had similar on my series 3

I bought a britpart rear door lock, went to open it one day and nothing, the weld on the handle was non existent and failed, had to cut the thing off to get the door open. Never buy britpart again, yeah the price is attractive but its not worth it if you value your time having to repeat the job

Yeah, they were in the centre of the dash next to the rear wash wipe/cigarette lighter on that oval recessed panel on the dash. They're the same as a range rover classic clock and are best sourced from breakers or ebay.

well the only way i know to test them is with 2 good diffs, full lock on the steering at slow speeds it will feel like the brakes are applied and the steering pulls. They're very easy to change though if you need to, drop the front prop off the box and remove the ring of bolts around the front output shaft housing and just swap the lot over. Hope that helps

dodgy earth at the rear lights is my guess

have a look at the specs for the led's too, i bought some 12v ones to go in mine but they blew every time i started the engine cos they didnt like the 14v my alternator was kicking out. Some are fussier than others but i just used a cheap voltage regulator off ebay.

The click is normal, there's a gate between 5th gear and reverse so that you can't try to shift from 5th to reverse (looking for a 6th gear that isn't there). The click is just that gate dropping back into place. Sorry no idea about the other fault. Have you had it plugged in for diagnostics? If it went into limp mode it should have stored a fault.

I'd say its worth fitting, i had a very slow collision with a car last year and the engine fan munched the radiator

domed part uppermost

There was no diff lock fitted to some model years of disco, do a quick search on here or google and you will find loads of info on the subject. Headlight aim should be adjustable via a switch on the dash or if it is just poor aim in general i recommend taking it to a garage who can set it up with the appropriate equipment, they shouldnt charge much For the headlight washers to work, the headlights have to be switched on and they will spray on every 3rd operation of the washers Hope that helps

firstly, id guess the switch you have with just one terminal earths through the body of the switch so you could probably use that one anyway. If you do decide to use the other, it doesnt matter which terminal does what as it is simply a switch so one terminal would have a short fly lead to an earthing point, the other would be the wire from the dash warning light (from memory although i might be wrong, it's black with a blue trace) hope that helps

You're a star, hadn't noticed you'd added a bit but i'm all sorted and got one ordered now, thanks again Dave

Thanks that's exactly what i wanted to know, so all i need to do is find out which belt suits my alternator. Shouldnt be too difficult so long as someone can tell me the part numbers of each belt Cheers again

Hi can anybody tell me what the difference actually is in the various 300tdi aux drive belts. I know that the alternator pulley diameter changed at some point, is this the only difference or did anything else change that effects the belt. If it is just the alternator pulley size, is it simply the case that the smaller alternator pulley requires the shorter aux belt and vice versa or is there more to it than that. Also if anybody knows, which belt is which? i.e. which belt is the short one and which one is longer. The reason i ask is ive just bought a tdi engine minus alternator and need to know which belt to go with the replacement alternator ive bought. Thanks very much Dave

Check all above first but i have found a few that are reluctant to go even after all that, i've found if you let it do its priming cycle (5 pumps of the throttle pedal with ignition on) then crank with your foot to the floor it will eventually go

Thanks everyone for the replies, sorry it took so long for me to get back to you. Got a bit more reading there and that single point system on the 2.5 looks good, but ideally i'd like to go multi point. My biggest question is what the fuel savings are like, what kind of difference does it make on a v8 over say a carb set-up? Really the only thing i have to achieve is tdi rivalling fuel economy, otherwise it won't be worth it as i really would like to use the landy every day and i just couldnt afford 17mpg cheers Dave

Hi, I've been doing a fair bit of reading around megasquirt/jolt and i'd really like to give it a go but ive got a few reservations before i part with any cash, mostly the issue of me not really having a clue what to expect or how to tune the engine post installation to get the best from the system. Bit of background; I've got a swb series 3 with a 2.5 petrol from an early 90, took it off the road early jan because i simply couldnt afford the running costs as my everyday car. I had plans to fit a tdi and get it back on the road but it just seems too much like a cop-out to me, i know theres better to be had from the 2.5 and i like to be a bit different. Now i've currently found 2 very useful sites showing other peoples attempts (both on 2.25's but they're so similar to the 2.5 i'm sure there's no issue there). One shows full megasquirt install but doesnt go into great detail. The other just megajolt alone, but does go into a little more detail. megasquirt: http://www.melsteve.plus.com/LandRover/ megajolt: http://otly.church-walk.com/Megajolt/page1.html I suppose my question really is; just how difficult is it to scratch build one of these systems? I'd love to go full megasquirt with fuel injection, i gather the best way to do this is to fit a ford edis system and megasquirt is then capable of controlling fuel and ignition. Alternatively fit the edis system and link to megajolt for ignition only. (i don't need megajolt if using a megasquirt ecu?) The fabrication i can do no problem, the wiring i'm happy with etc etc, all im worried about is the initial fire up and then fine tuning, i don't want to spend loads of money and have nothing to show for it. How is the tuning done? I've never done anything like this before, is it out of reach for a novice? Finally, what kind of gains can i expect? The finished land rover will be my only car, i need half decent fuel economy and power, if i do some mechanical work to the engine (skim the head etc) can i expect mpg figures close to the 30's? (17 is about best on carb set up) Thanks to anyone who is willing to provide some input, i know i've rambled a bit but i would love to get everything clear in my head before i start, it's a lot of money for me to part with.

Land Rover did delete the galvanised steel inner wing in favour of the plastic liner you have there, whether or not it picks up on existing bolt holes on an older vehicle i don't know, you'll just have to trial fit it, if not i'm sure you could fairly easily adapt it to fit. I find it easier to attach the inner wing to the wing section before bolting to the vehicle. Hope that helps

complete the order on lrseries and at the end they give you the option of a personalised shipping quote, for small items they will post very cheap. Just click for a personalised quote, wait for the order to be reviewed and you'll receive an email to ask for payment once you ae happy with the price Dave

thermostat stuck open? take it out and test it in hot water

switch the ignition on, pump the throttle pedal to the floor and let it return 5 times and the engine management light will flash on the dash, this is a built in priming setup that runs the fuel pump continuously, let it run for a good few minutes and then crank with your foot to the floor. If that still doesnt work you need to take the main feed off direct from the fuel pump and see if you can get it to pump fuel, if not you'll need a new pump. It's not all the uncommon for them to fail but still make noise.

theres a guy on the ollr forum who goes by the name of stuntman...

It should be absolutely fine, as long as it didnt actually overheat, there's no reason why it should have done any damage