dave88sw

a simple facet electric pump intended for use on carburettor fed engines would do the job well. Question is why do you want to change from the mehanical pump?

As the title really, i want to get my roof ready for paint soon, but beforehand i need to seal the gutters. I've decided on either sikaflex or tiger seal to use in the gutter as they're both paintable and remain flexible, but before i can do that, i need to clear all previous attempts (silicon, seam sealer etc). Can anyone recommend a method to remove it all quickly? I was thinking a drill mounted wire brush or similar but obviously not a steel one against the ally. Would this be too aggressive? Any suggestions would be appreciated. Thanks Dave

as said make sure it's coolant before you go looking for a problem. Which side of the car does the puddle form under etc are useful details, from experience, the 2 most common other than poor hose joints are water pump or the fuel cooler.

replace the injector copper washers, they're pence each and 20 minutes to change. I've had it before, basically blow by causes the compression to drop which makes starting difficult, easy start gives it the kick it needs to get going and once running, it's ok, probably actually gets better as it gets warm because everything expands. Hope that helps

is the red and black very small gauge wire? i think thats for the switch illumination, there should be 2 little seperate terminals on the side of the switch, one is the red/black, the other is the black, it doesnt matter which way round you connect them

if youve got ignition but its not going all the way to crank, then the switch has partially failed. But if it's lost one position it's probably only a matter of time until the rest gives up, so i'd say put another switch on. If you really want a button though, it should be easy enough to work out which wire does what, on older models brown is permanent live, white is ignition live and white/red is the crank feed to starter solenoid. Accessory is either solid green or white with an orange trace. Hope that helps

I would put money on the plugs breaking down as they get hot. for the cost of them, id stick a set in to try, they are a service item anyway.

Replace the expansion bottle cap, i expect the pressure release cap has gone weak and is just letting the coolant out whenever it gets hot rather than only releasing excess pressure.

yeah, 4th is straight through on the mainshaft. You're often left with only 4th gear if the layshaft fails. It would do it good to have a full set of bearings anyway. I'd guess with the water in the box the bearing races have rusted and pitted, it may quiet down in time but up to you, personally i'd pull it and inspect.

layshaft bearings by the sound of it

first off clean up all the earths you can find. Especially the ecu earth. Then, disconnect the battery neg and put a multimeter set to its ammeter function in series between bat and neg lead (make sure everything is switched off, multimeters are usually fused to 10 amps so dont switch the ignition on or anything). Anything over 0.03 amps (radio and immobiliser etc will draw a small amount) and you have a system that isn't powering down and will be draining your battery. With the multimeter still connected pull the fuses in the fusebox one by one until the drain is removed, you will then know which circuit is causing it.

series props would normally have a rubber gaitor over the entire joint, have to say i havent noticed a seal when i took mine apart. sorry if that doesnt help

just take off the rear trim at the bottom of the door (prise out the centre strip and the screws are underneath) then you can just untuck the carpet from the edge and tuck it back in after. If its a 7 seater you have to take out the 2 plastic trims that go round the loops in the floor that the seats latch to.

I had one incredibly stuck one, in the end i got it out by using a nut threaded down the top until it stopped, then continued turning, turning the injector in its hole (its round so it wont damage it rotating it). It went with one hell of a bang

dont know about hawkeye, we use macscan, but that wouldnt do it, as said though autologic will do it

any coolant loss? not the heater matrix leaking is it?

Sorry i should have explained better, i'm not an expert on the freelander but i'd guess as you have the harmon kardon stereo upgrade (dont worry that the speakers arent marked, they dont usually bother to brand them when they know they'll be hidden by the doorcards, tweeters are only marked because they sit on top of the door card) that you'd have an external amplifier. It sounds very much like the wiring has been messed with during various stereo changes and it has lost the feed to the amp (assuming it does have one). You are right that you'd need to wire the remote feed to the wire that switches the amp but i couldn't tell you what colour it is i'm afraid, maybe one of the helpful people on here have a wiring diagram?

Aftermarket stereo? I bet it isn't wired right. Seen it a lot on cars factory fitted with an external amplifier that have had an aftermarket head unit fitted later on. Basically when you switch the radio on, it tells the amp to switch on, but if you fit an aftermarket stereo and forget to wire the trigger feed to the amp, it doesnt power up and you only get basic sound from the tweeters. Hope that helps

I hate powder coating, if it gets scratched, water gets in behind, it rusts and the coating comes off in big sheets. Stick to paint, you can touch it up when it gets scratched

it doesnt take long for the water to soak along the length of the carpet from the tailgate seal. Just dry it out, repair the seal and put it back in.

I've known a few like that, just a thing with diesels starting when hot. Usually because the engine management system doesnt use the glowplugs when hot. If it's not showing any faults i wouldn't worry. The only other thing that causes poor starting on TD5's is the injector seals but that usually shows worse when the engine is cold. You'd also expect to see a bit of diesel in the oil. I would say it's probably nothing to worry about and the fuel temp is normal, a result of the fuel rail being in the head (theres a fuel cooler on the right hand side of the engine)

Si, that would work but you would have to be certain of the gas tightness of your gaskets etc, the idea of a simple heat exchanger (i.e. one pipe inside another) made of stainless so that it wouldn't rust through would virtually guarantee gas tightness and would be just as effective. I would have thought there would be a market for this sort of thing so im surprised nobody has picked up on it. As fas as i'm aware it's only beetle's and vw campers that use the exhaust for the cabin heater.

I really like the idea of an exhaust heater, it's something i've considered doing myself, if made out of stainless there's no real risk of the inner pipe leaking to the heat exchanger and the heat is almost instant once the engine is running. If you then used a seperate blower fan, like a bilge blower, you'd then just have to duct the heat into the car.

drums or disks on the rear? i know it's irrelevent when it comes to bleeding but i had similar on my pug (loosing pressure intermitently then no pedal, was a weeping rear cylinder letting air in. I've always found bleeding abs equipped vehicles a pain, usually have success with engine running and pumping the pedal. I will say i did once have a vectra, had absolutely no brakes at all to the rear, but had a good firm pedal, turned out the abs pump had stuck and wasnt allowing any fluid to the rear.

discomikey meant series 3 release bearings, they are not attached to the clutch fingers, earlier ones were.T he series 3 clutch looks identical to the disco clutch but the pressure plate isn't quite as highly sprung like he says so a good combo is the disco pressure plate with a series friction plate.