dave88sw

if you leave the transfer box in the same position and move the engine forward to suit the longer gearbox, the gearstick comes up on the front edge of the seatbox which is actually a much better place for it and it works quite well.

I have no idea how it was done, i just came across the picture somewhere a few years back. If nothing else it proves that it can be done. I have actually looked at the rear profile of a disco dash though and it is curved rather than flat so some trimming of the rear of the dash would be necessary to suit the flat bulkhead of the defender.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/vw-t4-van-800-special-and-custom-trailer-/260847380295?pt=UK_Campers_Caravans_Motorhomes&hash=item3cbbb72747 thats not bad actually

Thanks for the help guys sorry for the slight hijack...

while we are on the subject of led's, i bought some 12v ones to use on my land rover a while back, worked absolutely fine with the engine off cos obviously battery voltage is around 12.5v, however when i fired it up and got the full 14v, they all blew. How would i go about making sure they only receive 12v regardless of whether the engine is running or not because i still have a lot of spares of them. Thanks

The other sliding switch operates the 2 speeds of the fan so yes you could have just a simple on/off/on carling switch to control it, however on a standard defender heater box the sliding switch also pushes/pulls on a cable that opens a flap between the matrix housing and bulkhead to allow the air to flow. If you wanted to use a carling switch you could simply remove the flap between matrix and bulkhead or wedge the cable with the flap in the open position. Not sure which wire you mean that goes to the top of the matrix, theres another cable to push/pull a flap within the housing but as far as i know there are no wiring connections to the top. Also, the original switch switches the earth path for the motor, so your common connection on the carling switch should be earth and the 2 wires from the motor into the cabin should be on the 2 different switch positions.# Hope that makes sense

If the sun shines out your arse, surely you'd always be able to see where you WERE not where you're going

I love the look of a soft top but thats about all, when you actually think about it they're completely impractical. They arent easy to take off, theyre easy to break into, they leak if not looked after, take an age to fit properly etc etc etc A hardtop has the one important feature for me - security. However, everybody fits them as a bare metal roof and expects them to be warm and dry, it aint gonna happen, it will condensate etc etc. When i had my roof off i lay it upside down and glued camping/roll mats to it with carpet glue, trimmed to fit neatly round the edges etc, not only does it look quite smart (nice grey mats) it stops condensation and keeps it warm. Hardtop with improvised head lining gets my vote Dave

Ah i see!! Thanks thats really cleared it up Part numbers would be great too, if possible, but otherwise i'm sure i could knock something up Thanks again Dave

bought a hand throttle a while ago from a land rover show and ive got round to thinking about fitting it. Thing is, all i bought was the lever etc that bolts to the bulkhead and nothing that links it to the carb. Having looked it up on tinterweb, it looks like all there is to it is a rod from the lever to the throttle linkage and another lever that clamps to the throttle rod to move the linkage. However, looking at it, i cannot for the life of me work out how it works. The lever has teeth to lock the handle in place when youve selected the speed you want, so the lever cant move, but in that case, how does the standard throttle pedal work when the hand throttle is connected because surely the rod between the throttle linkage aqnd the hand throttle linkage would prevent it moving? Or have i missed something, does it only work in one rotation of the throttle linkage, so that the hand throttle can push on the throttle linkage but not affect the pedals movement? Any help is greatfully received. Also, could anybody tell me the part numbers for the linkage that i need for the hand throttle, i could make one myself but would rather do it properly Thanks Dave

I was hoping somebody could tell me whether a range rover v8 efi fuel pump would fit into a defender 110 fuel tank. The range rover is of 1988 vintage but we'd probably just buy a new pump and the defender is a 1992 model. The defender was orginally a carb fed v8 with a low pressure pump for the carbs, we're fitting an efi engine so need the higher pressure pump and hopefully the range rover pump can be used but will it bolt straight into the tank? Thanks for any suggestions Dave

use a magnetic screwdriver, they really are person I'm not that keen on

I don't know what you've tried already but it sounds like the trigger you're using from the headunit is in fact for an electric aerial and so is only powered for a short period when the radio switches on. Have you tried connecting the wire from the amp that should go to the headunit to a 12v permanent power wire just to check the amp works. If it were me i would start by JUST connecting the amp + and - wires direct to the battery and also the wire required to trigger the amp to check that the amp itself works, if it does nothing then send it back and ask for another Dave

they've always stayed put whenever i've removed one, ralphs diagram suggests it is riveted in place so as long as it's not coroded where aluminium meets steel then it should comeout just fine Dave

did all disco 1's have solid arms then? I'm sure i have a steering box off a 200 with a ball joint in the drop arm...

just remembered the drop arm ball joint kit i fitted last weekend, the bottom cup looked okay, not great but fitted, the ball itself not too bad but the upper cup had been drilled completely off centre, no way was i fitting that, left the vehicle useless for 4 days while waiting for parts. oh, and 2.25 petrol temperature sender, reads very hot, i spent hours flushing the radiator, checking the thermostat etc, replaced the sender with genuine, problem solved. I don't really care that i have to replace the parts, it's not usually that difficult, it's the time spent pissing around trying to work out what's wrong that annoys me. Dave

i didnt realise the fuel tanks were galvanised, when i got mine it was in a very thin satin black paint finish but didnt scrape it off to see if it was galvanised underneath, what finish did yours come in? would be nice to think mnes galvanised I have to say though in all seriousness, i've not had a single part that hasn't required modification or smacking with a hammer to fit/work. I avoid their parts if at all possible. Don't even think about buying a freelander window regulator, they're 3 inches too short, yes a whole 3 inches Dave

I cant say how much current is drawn by an alarm but the simplest way to power a radio and alarm with a standard isolator is simply to bridge the contacts of the isolator with a piece of wire and inline fuse of suitable ampage. You'll find most things work until the fuse rating is exceeded and if they try to start the vehicle the fuse blows and nothing works. However when i did mine i just ran a wire direct from battery to radio memory wire, i don't have an alarm. Hope that helps Dave

the defender steps simply bolt to the inner edge of the sill, they will definately go on but you may have to drill holes in the sill in the right place (not sure if they're already there). You can get specific series ones from paddock for about the same price as a defender step so that might be better. Dave

the glass is very easy to remove and put back. It sits in runners that screw to the bottom, you theninsert the glass with the top runner pushed ontop and place the bottom in the lower runner and angle the top into the door (if that makes any sense). Then by sliding the rear piece back and forwards you can access all the screw holes to screw the upper runner to the top of the door frame. The fixed piece is simply "glued" to the door frame. Most glaziers would be able to cut a piece of glass suitable for you. Don't bother with perspex as said, it goes opaque very quickly Dave

i think he means the internal bulkhead mounted square heater and he wants the tubes that run to the windscreen. garden centre, they have assorted diameter of hose in the fish tank section, would do the job fine. Dave

you mean theres enough of the door frame left to attach the trim panels to are you sure you bought a defender? i think someones sold you a duff one Dave

whats wrong with a bloody cable, tried and tested and FFS it WORKS

i had paint sent to me in the post was cheap too, look on ebay Dave

you just cant win though if you weld the bumper on then they'll come back and take the whole vehicle, i'd rather loose a winch bumper than my landy Dave