dave88sw

In my experience the only thing that breaks is the little torsion spring that holds up the locking tab, there is now a company on ebay selling the springs (£5 a pop which is a bit much for a tiny spring) but they do the job just fine. As you say you just drill out the rivets and it comes apart, i put mine back together with countersunk bolts

well i wouldnt normally use them, as you say, the website is carp and so far customer service has been pretty poor but they are the only people that stock a lot of the stuff i want. They have a lot of NOS series land rover bits. I just don't understand how they survive when they caqn't even be bothered to put the items in the post.

Had a similar problem a while back, the engine would crank, i could prove i had fuel to the FIP but not at the injectors, i was about to go and replace the FIP but thought id get a second opinion, he suggested the becm had lost the code that links it to the engine ecu, got a guy to come and check with testbook and he was right, reset the code and it started straight away. PS glowplugs dont come on when hot on this engine, its a known fault that they dont like starting when hot because of this, search ebay for "p38 hot start kit" and you'll find a kit to fool them into coming on.

Has anybody else had trouble with craddocks? Last time i used them was about 2 years ago, ordered some brake pads on a monday, needed them by the weekend. Come friday they hadn't arrived so chased them up "oh, our tracking system tells us theyre at the couriers depot", bearing in mind they weren't dispatched until Thursday. Had to go and pick them up in the end. Fast forward to now, thought i'd give them another try, ordered something from their ebay shop last friday, realise they wouldn't have done anything until monday but expected it to be dispatched monday morning, still hadn't by wednesday so contacted them. They promised they'd be in post the next day, they still haven't dispatched it. So Monday morning i think they might get a rude phone call. Am i the only one or are they generally ok? Dave

Cheers Jon, that's great, i guessed there would be something out there suitable but had no idea what sort of resistance was required. I'll get one ordered and give it a try. Dave

Seeing as it's nearly on topic, a while ago, the resistor gave up on my series blower leaving me with just the fast fan speed. Has anybody had any success repacing the resistor? I've never seen them for sale seperately but i'm pretty certain you could knock something up, does anybody know of a source of a suitable resistor? Cheers Dave

lpg used for an extended period of time causes quite a lot of wear as it doesnt lubricate like petrol, i'd guess the bores are worn and you're getting a bit of oil past the rings

I work for an independent garage and in the interest of saving customers money we would often fit britpart bits, thats now stopped. The supplier we use no longer stocks their stuff. We would spend twice as long fitting the parts as they all needed trimming etc to fit which put the bill up. They worked when fitted and then broke on the way home etc, it just wasn't worth it. Brake disks may well meet a british standard for safety, i.e. they won't sheer off when you stamp on the brake pedal etc but it would help if they fit. The last set i tried to fit had the wrong dish to them so would catch the caliper carrier when bolted tight to the hub, they would have been fine with a washer behind but i wasn't happy to do that so they were sent back. Please don't waste your money

put a jump lead from the bat neg to the engine, this should prove if its the earth. If it proves to be the problem, remove the battery, then you can get access to the bolt that secures the lead to the body and further down to the chassis, take the lead off, clean the ends and mounting points with emery paper and bolt back on with plenty of copper grease. If i'm doing this job i often make up a short lead with a ring on each end, attach one end to the same bolt as the main earth on the chassis and the other end to the closest timing chest bolt.

i always use 1/2 inch 12 point on those bolts to start with, its just a slightly tighter fit than 13mm, i've never had success with a 13mm. If not, use your irwins, those things are incredible.

but there are different types or series speedo's, swb and lwb (or more accurately tyre size decided speedo ratio). Does anyone know which speedo head works with the lt230 and which speedo drive gear you need in the lt230? By that i mean what combination actually reads close to accurate, as all combinations would work, just not accurately lol.

My MOT inspector told me that cable ties direct to the casing ought to be a fail but if you were to slit a rubber hose and wrap around the pipe before putting the tie around it, it will pass. As long as the pipe is supported and theres no risk of abrasion there's no reason it shouldnt pass

i'm pretty sure you can replace them seperately, they do a quarter turn and come out (you have to give it a tug as it has a ball and cup joint to connect it to the headlight. However if you want to just unplug it, you should be able to trace the wires to the plug fairly easily, or just pull the connectors one by one until the whirring stops.

disconnect the 2 rubber hoses that go through the bulkhead to the heater in the engine bay and join them with a straight bit of pipe and see if you're still losing water, if this solves it, plan to change the matrix

You sure the headlight washers dont work? Bear in mind they only squirt when the headlights are switched on and only on the third operation of the washers

Its not an original fitment its aftermarket so the control unit will be wherever the installer decided to put it, i'm afraid you'll just have to trace the wires back to find it. If it were mine i would remove the whole lot and put the wiring back to standard, it would irritate me knowing half a defunct system was still in place

I'm not sure of exact dates but i know of 2 that have fatigued and cracked, i suppose it could happen to any of them but i have to say it would put me off buying one. Usually though mantecs stuff is very good

Hi, I'm thinking of painting my land rover nato green. Trouble is i don't know where would be best to get the paint from. Lots of suppliers on ebay but reading some feedback a few people seem to think it's a bit poor. Also, there seems to be a large variation in the shade of green between suppliers even though they're all calling the paint nato green. Can anyone recommend a supplier they've used and if possible post a picture of their land rover, it would be nice to get the shade i'd like Thanks in advance Dave

Taken from the listing : Special hinged bushes with grease nipples to provide long-life and serviceable parts Looks pretty good to me but shop around there are plenty of brands out there, early mantec ones were prone to cracking at the welds but i dont know if theyve sorted that out these days.

the clock is on a permanent live feed to keep the time so surely if thats resetting your fault is more likely to be the main positive feed from the battery or a main earth lead.

the squeek is usually caused by the belt tensioner, the nylon bush in it wears and allows the pulley to sit out of line. Cant think why the noise changes with belt dressing but with the belt off, try to rock the pulleys one by one to feel for play and spin to feel for roughness, replace anything that needs it.

I wouldn't like to say for definite but i'm not sure i'd trust it. A little trick to stop it spreading is to drill a small hole at each end of the crack. I would definitely have the head pressure tested before refitting though.

Thanks for the responses. This won't be the only security mod, just one of many, as pointed out, if sited near the fuel tank (out of sight and hard to find) the engine would start and run and run a short distance, i quite like this idea, if they have got as far as to get it started, they think great, drive away and then it cuts out. At that point i'd hope they'd ditch it at the side of the road and run (hopefully without torching it). I just think for the sake of a few quid for the valve, if it saves the landy from getting nicked it will be worth it. Thanks again

I would beg to differ, the drop arm ball joint is a pig to change, seems to be advised on every mot even when ok (most testers dont seem to realise they're sprung loaded) and the rubber boot quite often slips off the drop arm. It's a 10 minute job to change a track rod end and the steering has always felt more positive after i've done the conversion (which i've done to a few now) Just my experience

I should probably start by saying i haven't actually got a gas kit fitted, nor is my landy petrol. However, i've been looking at anti theft devices and came across a fuel shut off solenoid marketed as an anti theft device for about £90. This seemed a bit ott for a shut off valve. I then remembered gas kits fitted to carburettor fed engines use a petrol shut off valve to stop the fuel when running on gas, this must be as near as damn it the same thing. I've found this one on ebay: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Petrol-solenoid-shut-cut-off-valve-12V-autogas-conversions-liquid-air-/160900829501?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item25766fd13d But i'm a bit unsure about the 6/8mm connections as obviously its a 6mm internal diameter right through with just a shoulder for an 8mm pipe to fit snugly. Will this cause a restriction in the fuel delivery? Also will this valve be suitable for diesel? I can't think there's anything in it to suffer from the use of diesel rather than petrol? cheers Dave