Cornish Rattler

Arrrrr, ordered an L.E.D. flasher unit the other day and should have landed here for Thursday / Friday so will have to see if it arrives on Monday now

Don't have one, never have with all my landy's even the disco's I had the int mirrors got ripped off the screen as soon as I bought them, it gives you more view with the front screen and I am not too fussed what's behind me I have door mirrors for that only interested what's in front of me

Yeah to honest we have always had problems with this 90 from the day we bought it as regards electrics, we replaced the chassis early this year and should have replaced the loom and re-wired the bulkhead but as it was just a chassis swap we didn't do it but have a bulkhead to fit at some point so will probably do it then but need to finish the 2a restoration first so will have to persevere with the electrics for now, once the new flasher unit comes I will try it if it doesn't I will pull the dash and check stuff

Hi guys Firstly, I have decided to open this thread and keep it away from my other thread ( Best way to strengthen a seat box ) anyway I went for a run out on Saturday did roughly 15 miles and came off at a junction and realised my small gauges had stopped working then realised later I had lost indicators aswell probably happened after I last indicated when overtaking, anyway the 90 has been stood since then so today I decided to have a look thinking it was just a fuse but they all seem ok then I flicked the ignition on and the fuel worked as it should then I tried the indicators and the fuel gauge stopped working again and the indicators are still not working. Now when we first fitted the L.E.D. lights the flasher unit that came with the lights was faulty and giving similar problems and once replaced it cured it so just incase it is another faulty flasher unit I have ordered another one, what do you think

Took the 90 out today to give it a proper run was hopeing for a 300 mile round trip to angelsey and back but after 10ish miles on the Motorway the gauges and indicators stopped working So another couple of jobs to sort out

Cheer's Snagger, yeah I will have a look into an isolator switch when I sort the seat box out, I was more annoyed of the fact it let me fill the tank and then do it so for now I have reset the seat and un-plugged it, then attempted another run did about 10ish miles up the Mway and suddenly I lost all gauges and indicators so I have that to look into that aswell now then hopefully I can do a decent run

Ha just went to go for a run out in the 90 to give it a run as I really haven't had chance since fitting the engine and having the FIP and injectors done, anyway whilst driving to the petrol station the driver's seat ( Mazda rx8 electric seat ) decided to fold up on me whilst driving and noticed the switches / buttons are pressing on the door and wasn't before I noticed the seat base was damaged, so I will have to do something now

Normally I would have carried them on the roof of the 90 but I have removed the lash down eyes from the sides of the 90 so the trailer will have to do for now

That sounds a good idea I will look out for some when I next go to wickes or who ever, makes the job pretty easy

Hi guys At the weekend just gone I had a look at my none working fuel gauge which inc removing the drivers seat ( Mazda rx8 seat fitted ) to check the wiring on the tank, anyway whilst undoing the seat I noticed on both sides of the seat box where the seat box bolts to the rear bulkhead lip and where the rear of the seat rails are the box is bent in as though something very heavy has been left on the seats and damaged the seat box, think when son and his mate went off roading before I replaced the engine mite have hit a bump hard and caused the seat box to bend, so I am looking at straitening the seat box out and strengthening it on the inside. has anyone else strengthened the inside of a seat box before and how did you do it please

I know the footwells need replacing, the pillars need replacing and from under the wind screen down has been part repaired by the PO with IMHO more work should have been done but hasn't, I will speak to my son and see what he thinks and I will let you know

Tools left in the dash and forgotten about

Hi guys well after 8 months I have a working fuel gauge, removed the fuel filter with housing from the bulkhead and found an earth wire tucked behind the wiring connected it and bingo so I refitted the fuel filter And with the speedo that stopped working a few months ago but been sorting other stuff out on the truck I decided to pull the cabie from the gearbox and refitted it and again bingo and it's working again, I am well chuffed

I would be interested in this aswell as I have a similar problem but with a new tank and Bearmach sender fitted, something is telling me it should be 12V but I could be wrong and I will check myself tomorrow

In fairness I think the Bearmach one is built the same way as a BP one but better using quality bearings, seals and metal

Last year I fitted the TF204 spring kit with + 2" TF shocks as I wanted to cover everything I wanted to do with my 90, carrying loads, towing, off roading and normal road use but I found the springs was just to stiff, I didn't have much articulation when off road, hard ride on the road and I could carry a house and the springs wouldn't squash down so I removed the springs and fitted the BP yellow springs as they was rated the same as the TF201 spring kit and a lot cheaper aswell and I have never looked back, I later switched to TF + 5" shocks and lower rear shock mounts for more articulation but its great now

Cheer's guys for all this info, the trailer is pretty well balanced as the wheels are slightly set back from the centre so even when empty it always has nose weight so the planks shouldn't make much difference I just wasn't sure about the overhang side of things

Hi guys I have a small utility trailer with a body length of 6'4" and I need to collect 4x 9' planks would I get away with a 1'6" overhang at each end, what do you think

Hi guys I'm in the process of making a list of everything I need to convert a 1971 s11a swb to Disco 200 tdi engine and need to know what clutch assy I need to use, I am using the original 2a g/box

Made a parts list for the g/box and 200 TDI engine today inc both prop shafts and a RR diff

I will dig the bulkhead out tomorrow and take some better pics

As you can see the piece that goes from left to right where everything is fitted to the bulkhead in the engine bay is a new piece of steel badly welded in and no holes drilled for stuff to be fixed in place, all the welding is very rough and to be honest it looks like who ever done it have only done the good bits and left the rough bits

Last one

Some more pis

Hi Flailbasher, here are some pics of the bulkhead, the pics are of work that was done to the bulkhead before we bought the 2a earlier this year, I don't have pics of the footwells but they need replacing aswell