missingsid

So how does a Tacho know the difference between cutting grass and sleeping under a tree? In my previous employment the drivers that went abroad stopped using the Tacho after the ferry, and started again once back in UK. Marc.

You may need to trim the bottom of the bulkhead where it touches the top of the gearbox adapter depending upon the adapter used? I have a Phillips adapter and I had to shave a bit off the bottom. To cover this I used an extra piece of ally to ensure the gearbox cover fitted. If you are careful (more than me)you may not need to. Whatever you need to do will all fade away the first time you drive it with the V8. Marc.

Nige, Can I have 1x XL Polo 1 x Cap Navy if pos? Cheers and good work. Marc.

Yeh and instead of roaring off into the distance he can just hide behind the cloud of black smoke and sneak away quietly Marc.

Brilliant. As this forum has the best MS/MJ information it is fantastic to see it get it's own separate forum. Great move. Marc.

Right spotted big problem 1: I have an 86" with lots more room. Problem 2: I do not have a way to reduce the size of my pictures to post them right now. Trying to fix prblem2 Marc. These may work? please let me off the terrible state of my bulkhead as may mate decided to empty the entire contents of my brake reservoir onto both sides. Result is all the paint has bubbled and discoloured or is just falling off in sheets Nope it did not upload well

My application was more convoluted than you will require as I have a V8 to squeeze in. Basically I replaced the whole of the foot wells with those from a scrap early D90 (if not then late Series 3 will do). It may be easier to get weld in repair foot wells instead. Once these are added (weld along the top to the Series bulkhead and sides to the uprights) you can then use Series 2,3 or Defender pedal sets complete. T Series front supports still fit on my vehicle (well one side anyway) but The accelerator I have still uses a bar along the vee of the foot well as per the Series 1 but I have added a cable fitting just inside the engine end of the vee with a hole in the top slope to fit the cable. You will find that the floor plates of the Series 1 will not reach the bottom of the foot well so I made up some ally plates to fill the gaps and used standard D90 fittings on the foot well bottom and Series 1 fittings at the floor end. The gearbox cover is Series 1 at the rear with D90 or Series 3 in the front I am not sure but will try to think tomorrow. If all this is too much then the alternative is to just measure up a Series 2/3 or Defender bulkhead and cut the holes for the pedals in your instead? I fear that your aim of fitting a D90 servo will not be successful as the bonnet height is too low which is why I use a LWB master cylinder and remote "Supervac" servo mounted on the centre cross member. I does get muddy but as far as I know has never failed to work even under water. If you find a servo that does fit (possibly a Series 3?) I would be very interested, late Series 3 may have used a non-servo dual master cylinder if this helps? I will see if I can post some photos tomorrow, but be warned my bulkhead is loosing all its paint after the wrong paint was used plus my mate let brake fluid pour down the bulkhead so they won't be pretty. I hope that some of this helps you? Marc.

My Series 1 has LWB twin leading brake on the front and single leading brakes on the rear with a remote servo (some say that this is not needed). The best thing I did was throw away the old master cylinder and after fitting D90 footwels, fitted Series 2/3 pedal boxes and maaster cylinders. I also made up a hydraulic clutch systems so that I could get rid of the entire below floor levers. I am afraid that none of this is simple but it is achievable. Marc.

This is how I took my Series 1 gearbox out to rebuild it. Marc.

I found a link for "PWB Panels new LR/RR panels etc." on the Suffolk Land Rover Owners Club sits but it does not go anywhere now. You could try talking to them? Marc.

Simon, How did you upset the UK RepRap forum? Your topic seems to have been removed Marc.

I am suffering from this at the moment and had two problems, one, a leaking slave cylinder, two, too much travel in the rear shoes. Stolen from another (or this) forum but I can't remember which so no reference is possible but it is from the US. This document may or may not help? Mods If this is bad practice to post it please remove. QUESTION - I have just replaced the brakes on my 109 and now I can not get the brakes to work on the first pump. Also not all the shoes adjust properly. ANSWER - Don't feel alone about this. Even a lot of factory trained service technicians got it wrong. In October 1970 Land Rover issued a confidential technical service bulletin (No. 1-F-9) to explain the correct assembly to their own service techs. Forum reply in PDF. Brakes.pdf

Some of my old friends who are far far far better drivers than me would play the game of seeing how far they could drive off road before getting out to lock the hubs. This is great as you cannot cheat. Once when I got stuck in sand trying to rescue a Lightweight LR, my mate in the LR that mine was copied from, drove past both me and the lightweight then got out and locked his hubs! Ever so humble. Marc.

Thats well cool. Looking at the video, does the part need to have a flat base or do you add a pyramid base to be cut off afterwards? Apart from the noise I really fancy one of those. It kind of goes well with the whole MegaSquirt idea...making stuff yourself. Look forward to seeing your finished article. Good luck. Marc.

I first bought the largest Halfords one, then took it back and bought the small and middle ones as the largest is too big for 90% of jobs even on a LR. I was using it to replace the heads on a V8 and even then it would only suit one job, the head bolts. Good quality and lifetime garuntee but poor cases, they will break if knocked hard and no packing inside to protect it. Marc.

Is it loose and fallen down when the old belt let go or is it tight where it is? I would have expected the tensioner to be up near the water pump pulley when the belt is on? Looking at the photo again it seems that you have two sets of pulleys for the Crankshaft to water pump, one matches the alternator route and the other goes around the tensioner wheel and not the alternator? Marc.

Well, I've been and come back well happy. I wanted a pair of Salisbury rear axle calliper brackets for a Disc conversion. Didn't want to pay for new (if I could find them). 1st stall I visit and it has lots of new parts. Shuffling along the tables, nothing interesting, then I look up and realise that there are things hanging above my head (short arse). So I go back to start of the tables and there on a bit of wire are a pair of brand new still sticky from anti rust goo brackets £10 each. Now I have to find something else look for to pass the time. 2 ice creams later (little girl and other half bribes)and a quick look at the ponies for the girl and we all leave happy. The only irritation of the day was that I travelled down from Oxford so I figure I will get a slip road from the north and miss the traffic.... Nope there is no slip road on the north side an I have to go around the M4 roundabout in the snake like traffic. Doh! What did everyone else buy? I saw a lot of Series 1 body parts going out of the grounds so either there are some new projects or people are stocking up. Marc.

That looks very interesting using a LHD Scout box on a RHD Land Rover. Trouble is I could only find 1 full system on Flebay US and no box only at all. My Series 1 has a Rover P5 box but spares are getting difficult. Marc.

Sounds like the rear flap and the rope that goes around the top of the back to tension the hood (mine is a full tilt though). My Series 1 hood has this problem as the design is not good with the stress out of line with the hole. I will be interested in the answer although it has not got any worse yet. Good luck with your rebuild and have fun. Marc.

BritCar has this to say. ANR4635PM ROAD WHEEL ROSTYLE DEF/RRC (O) Superseded Product Codes: 598690 NRC3283 NTC2165 NTC4135 NTC4135PM NTC2165 Microcat has this as welded and NTC4135 as riveted. Does this help? Marc.

Brill After a slight mod this work for my version brilliantly. the previous script for this I had was good but did not reset the date. Thanks for this. Marc.

That is what I came up with in reverse. I have 3.9 heads on a 3.5 and I considered using a tin gasket as I could not get a comp gasket for a couple of weeks. I figured this would end up with a 9.95:1 comp ratio. In the end I waited for the comp gaskets. I have heard differing quotes about SD1 valve sizes where only the EFI had the bigger valves. the std carb SD1 had better ports only?? Marc.

Ah I do like EEC bobtails. Marc.

Hmmm, do I trust the government once they know of a whole load of vehicles that can be taxed later if they feel like it? Marc.

Actually I can't remember where I saw that statement recently. It was something I came across when looking at new cams. Marc.