Jump to content

Gremlin

Settled In
  • Posts

    881
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    1

Everything posted by Gremlin

  1. Mine are the same, and they have been running for the past 4-5 years, no issues. This was also brought up when i posted my disc brake build. Congrats to the OP, i built mine with similar tech (wood mock up) and didthe same with my hubs exactly, its looks like a good build keep it up!! G
  2. Go to his website, all info is there, (in signiture)
  3. Oh dear! where shall i start............ Well nothing new to what others have said on the lift idea. In regards to the x member, i chopped mine off, and made a another straight one just behind the belhousing, like a coiler one. I also chopped the one behind the box (the one with the hole) off, and it was replaced by one that sits on top of the chassis and supports the rollcage. As to lift, mine used to run re arched springs, for a gain of about 3 inches. Ride was still a bit choppy (shackle angle was all messed up) although i had less leafs in each pack. So be careful what you do. There is a real limit on what you can do without making it undrivable, or actually making it perform worse that a standard landy. This how mine sits today (springs have settled down to a standard arc) This was my inspiration below when i was doing my rebuild, but i never ended up going all the way since it is my daily driver! Wish i could build it like this someday. Good luck with your vapour ideas, but try to be realistic in your goals, besides also being practical (and legal) Grem
  4. Just my 2c worth, i did it as well and it works well, till now its been several years in service. I have thought of making a sort of kit (just brackets and instructions!), but it stated getting complicated quickly. Here is mine Series Discs - LR4x4 - The Land Rover Forum Good luck on your quest, but cheap was my main goal, plus using lr components only. G
  5. Its not worth the effort to have a weak R&P down at the axle!! Just go back and rethink this super hard. As to bumpsteer, look at the old US baja race trucks, they mounted the box where the suspension pickups are at the chassis, and ran a fore and aft arrangement similar to a series, but with no relay, and steering box at chassis level. Hard to explain, but you might figure it out.
  6. Sherpa box is your best bet, but they die behind a tdi, i had one mated to a series transfercase, and i fried the bearings once. Then i killed the output splines, and binned it. I do not recall a support bearing in the tail housing...............but i could be wrong. The output spline is different than the landrover spline for sure (thats why i killed mine) G
  7. This was my solution before i went to a defender heater. Just brazed on a fitting to the original fitting and screwed in the series valve. G
  8. Some years back there was a challenge truck built that way. Front seemed pretty flexy as well.
  9. The whole setup functions on the same principal as raduis arms. You are still trying to twist the axle tube! Triangulated they might be less binding, and going towards a 1 link setup. G
  10. Yes why not, i grafted coiler brake bits and hub parts onto a series axles to achieve discs, so it is do-able, its more of 'how much effort you would want to put into doing it' I would love to have the engine and box from one, they seem to be good units, maybe as an upgrade from the 200? (not cause i have any complaints) G
  11. From memory, if you actuate the throttle lever the pin should pop back out, did you try that? G
  12. Jai, let me know where you did the longer spline shaft for the sals, as i also have the cheap locker option already in my diff, all i need is the longer shaft + splines and a different drive flange. G
  13. How do you know the coiled chassis you are taking the measurements from is correct?? I have seen too many horrible coiled series chassis around, and they all seem to have something wrong somewhere. You also cannot cross over measurements from a coiler chassis to a series chassis quickly, the belly and kick up for the axles are of different shape. I am not saying its impossible, and it can be done correctly, but its a hell of a lot of work! I do suggest that you sell your series and get a 90/110, or put some good springs on, or as a last resort try to get a coiled chassis from the UK if they still make them. IMO if you are going to offroad the hell out of the landy,and you are determined of going trough the hassle of changing axles then get a set of nissan or toyota ones and link it, transferring rover items is a sort of pointless exercise and probably a waste of time. G
  14. Oh dear, Did you have a look at heystee stuff. He is making 24/23 spline shafts in cr/mo for stage 1 axles. Might be easier getting them from him then having ones made up. They are on my wish list......together with a locker! G
  15. Just a shot here from what i read, i believe the bulb is on a live feed all the time and the it is negatively switched at the gearbox. So if you get the wire from the loom and touch it to earth the bulb should light up. Or that's what i think. Now from what i gather is the bulb is always on? so you must have the wire going to the bulb earthing somewhere to the body or chassis. G
  16. Ok Just try to spray some petrol down the carb first and see if it spurts into life, even for a few seconds. This will identify if the electrics are fine, and there is a spark. then remove the pipe to the carb and prime the pump manually till you get fuel, re connect, hop in and crank it, it should be fine after that. If not start up the diagnostics module in your brain to find root and cause of problem.............. G
  17. There you go, i learnt something new! Thanks Bill! G
  18. Yes it will need bleeding if its a diesel........what engine? 2.3?
  19. Yes 599827 seems to be right part you are after. G
  20. Ok I am back, and you are in luck, camera found, batteries ok and cable found as well...........so on to the pics! Is this what you are looking for? G
  21. Whats so unique? stubs are usually the same between an 88 and 109. I am puzzled to know whats different. All i know is early and late, easy to see. I have several stubs all from dismantled 109 axles, let me go have a look and post some pics later. G
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We use cookies to ensure you get the best experience. By using our website you agree to our Cookie Policy