Giles

you have to fit the sender once the tank's in place - there's not enough room between the chassis rails for the tank with sender fitted to squeeze thru

Excellent to know you're on the mend + on a side point re. your nurse, I've always thought of all Australians as Asians ...

Although I don't think it works (yet?) with Russia, I use transferwise.com to make and receive payments around Europe - it's a kinda peer-to-peer payment service. I was a little wary at first, but have never had any issues and I have used it for business as well as private payments (to me and from me): fast, reliable and the rates are way better than with banks. I'm not promoting anything here, just passing on a tip about something I've found that does exactly what it says on the tin

That sounds grim... Is yr engine still ok? I THINK the alternator is an A127 unit also used on JCBs, Massey Fergusons and heaps of other stuff. They're pretty common and any decent depanneur should be able to sort it.... I'd say a well-stocked agri shop would have it on the shelf. Bonne chance, bonne route

Here's a box fresh one for sale on a main dealer forecourt in Bayonne: http://www.leboncoin.fr/voitures/723849241.htm?ca=16_s

It looks like an MOD thing used on Sankey (and other no doubt) trailers for the lights....

That's right; I think it's mostly the pencil bit at the end that snaps off. Mine did... but I had the head on the bench at the time so knocking it out from underneath wasn't a problem...

I've used an eberspacher water heater for a few years; never had a battery prob (like Fridge says, it should sense falling voltage and shut down). Perhaps I don't run it long enough, but it never gets the coolant hot enough for properly hot air (if you see what I mean), but you do get instant warm air, which quickly gets to hot once the engine's on. I love it. I got mine off a crashed audi for €0, they're easy to fit and there's loads of useful people and info on Rover 75 forums (search for 'parking heater').

Over here Defenders seem to be delivered mostly with Michelin Latitude Cross in 7.5/16. They're great for me (tracks/fields etc.) Like Retroanaconda I got them brand new from the back door of a LR dealer for 400€ for all 5... bargain

Your Norwegian looks very Dutch to me... I know cos a) I'm a translator and b) I bought one of those a couple of years back and am quite happy with it. I took the +ve off the back of the alternator, that's all I can remember; it's a decent product...

So pleased that you're not hurt - I'm kinda pleased that your 90 is hurt tho as it did a great job saving your ass I'm with Daan: looks like project time

Have you read Luke's widom-packed thread? http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=25376

I've very recently had the same hassle bleeding after an m/c swap. I don't have a bleeding kit/pump/system, and was working alone. At first it was braking at front only, nothing much at all at the rear. This is what I did. First, I drilled a hole in a metal top off a glass bottle and ran 40cm or so of clear pipe into it, sticking the end of the pipe into a pool of spanky fresh brake fluid in the bottom of the bottle, I then fitted this lot to the nipple furthest from the m/c. Then I selected an appropriate piece of wood for holding the pedal down with... then pump pump etc etc and hold pedal down, round the back under the truck and open the nipple to let what ever was there out, closing the nipple again as soon as anything happened (and quite a few times nothing at all came out). At first (second, third, fourth, fifth and quite a bit more) almost nothing came - I too thought that surely a portioning or G valve or something had jammed, but I stuck with my pumpy pump pump as I had no spares or other working vehicle. Now and then I got something slightly more encouraging, a little bit of movement of the fluid in the pipe. Eventually I did wonder 'Am I dreaming? Is that pressure I'm feeling in the pedal?' Back under the truck (pedal held down by trusty piece of wood), open the nipple and Woosh, a fair amount of bubbly cloudy skanky and generally unloved fluid swept down the tube into the bottle. YES! After that it was bleed as normal, slow going by yourself but no worries at all. Just like you, I'd swapped/repaired the front calipers then the m/c... then decided that somehow this simple system must be faulty or haunted in some hidden way. Turns out that it's just a drag to bleed - so you start to believe that something else's wrong. Stick with it and you're good. Unless of course your shuttle switch IS goosed....

Wot he said... Between, say, November till late April my drive home involves 20 to 30 metres of axle-deep standing water. My battery light always comes on if it's dark (lights and fan running), not always during the day (no lights...). I have far more more problems caused by continual drenching of starter motors than alternators, tho not in the 110...

I did it in +-10 (not always very long)working days. The biggest-time saver IMHO is to avoid dismantling any of the body; lift it off in one go. The higest point is the top of the front shocks... if you can wheel the chassis out forwards this means that you have to lift the front high enough to clear the shocks, and the back needs raising by only a few centimetres...

I don't know diddly about injectors, but I THINK I remember that these have a 2-stage opening, meaning that you can't set em up using a simple pump-style tester. Surely somebody knows...

Heath - the tank I have is for a 110 (rear), not a 90 (side). It was fitted to a 2.5 petrol 110 SW that broke on a French motorway and was sold on by the recovery company for an alarmingly small sum

Yea... I've got one of those too. It has MADE IN CANADA stamped into the metal on top, above the big hole for the guage

you might try draining and replacing the ps fluid (pop it in your diesel tank afterwards;)

There's a guy in France offering new Adwest lhd boxes at €501 delivered (to France)... can't seem to find 'em any cheaper than that. How far are you from the border....?

you can use a flasher relay to prime the espar/webasto where the tank is too distant, i.e. if it fails safe (lack of fuel) before igniting. Never tried running it like that tho...hth

OK, here's what I've been wondering for some time: how are the replacement (non OE) chassis made? Aren't genuine ones made from 2x formed C-sections welded together? But are the replacements? Am I wrong in thinking that the replacements are made from 4x shaped strips, jigged then welded up? IF this is the case, for me they don't really qualify as like-for-like/straight swap, and if I was looking at a claim, I might just be tempted to argue the toss... but as I'm too poor to buy a shiny new one, it's not something I worry about

If you're/he's picky, you'll need to change the wiper arms and swap thier positions (but it's not really that important!); I think the same wiper motor does LHD/RHD. The loom is not a problem... If you have PAS, I think you'll need new hoses... +1 with western Ralph, why not do it over there?

Absolutely. As I live surrounded by piles of carp (spares dear, spares), I keep a matched set of rims w/o tyres for the very purpose. 3mm out don't sound too bad really; but perhaps you should replace the other bush too as it might have compressed a bit over time?? giles

Hi Surely you're better off playing with da drag link... not messing about with the steering wheel. Maybe??