bishbosh

The only reason for removing prop shafts would be if towing with the front wheels raised - you take the rear prop off to stop the centre diff going pop.

Try and keep all your fingers Jeff

Depends what your truck will weigh fully kitted out. I suggest you build the truck on any old springs, then take it to your nearest weighbridge where for the price of a few drinks you should be able to weigh the front and rear axles. Deduct 200kg for the front and 150kg for the rear unsprung axle weights and you can then go looking at spring lengths and rates. If you look in the tech archive there are all sorts of links to useful spring tables.

Some areas to ponder: 1. Fold a lip down at the front of the mounting plate and up at the back - keeps the unrestrained edge in tension rather than compression. 2. Whilst the Domex steel may be stronger than mild, it is not going to be appreciably stiffer ( similar / same Young's modulus) for the same thickness and flex in a mounting is a killer for winches.So concentrate on getting stiffness into the design. 3. At a guess I would say it is unlikely you will benefit from the extra strength of the Domex due to point 2. Good luck!

Considering most of Khan's creations, I don't think that one is too bad.

Pretty straight forwards really - position the slider on the body above the waistline. Mark the hole positions, drill and bolt up.

Ok so my black and decker powerfile has died and I am thinking of replacing it with an air powered version. Any recommendations out there?

Thanks for the tips guys. Will certainly be using flood as the point and squirt approach gets tiresome very quickly! Suppose I'd better go check if the coolant pump works now!

Thanks for the advice - got some supercut off ebay now winging its way to me

So I've tried sending PM's (plural!) and abusing him on Facebook but it would appear that Nige (HfH) has decided to shut me out of his life. So as a last resort I am posting this completely off topic thread about fluffy kittens or whatever in the hope it will get the grumpy bu99er's attention! Nigel - read and preferably answer your PM's!!! :p Ta.

So where do I get coolant from for my mill? And what sort do I need? Plenty of options on ebay but I have no idea regarding suitability or even if the prices are good. I cut mostly aluminium but also steel. Looking to make use of my flood coolant system on the mill rather than standing guard with a can of WD40! (Yes I know, not the right fluid but it is abundant in my mancave. ) Thanks.

POIDH!

Depends what you want protection for - if you "interact" with tress and undergrowth a lot then an external cage, or at least suitably positioned bits of cage to act as sliders will protect your bodywork. If you just want your head to be the same shape after an "incident" then fit an internal cage but be prepared to chop holes in the dash.

This any good for torch holding? https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=l9hBQafpr9M&list=UUDmxnPem-pPfJQATIkfgY2Q

Rather than removing the ends of spanners I used to apply a healthy dose of lump hammer.....

Good news on the tolerances Si! No idea what influences them though, might be the thin wall, might just be the numbers I quoted were upper limits so the actual tubes produced are typically well within them? Would make sense as I can't see Tata scrapping 100's of metres of tube because it was out of spec!

That's a bit extreme Jeff - deforestation to catch a mouse???

I would suggest asking your question on FullfatRR.com. Not many on here have L322's so you might struggle for any first hand advice.

Can you not make up a pipe using silicone elbows of various angles and short lengths of pipe?

Don't know if you have considered this, but the rolling tolerance on box section for twist is 2mm per m and 1% (min 0.5mm) on external dimensions. Not sure if that is going to be problem for the level of accuracy you need? Data taken from Tata's Blue Book.

Good Lord no! Are you mad?? North?? [sideshow Bob]Shudder[/bob]

Hopefully the mill will start to produce buggy parts soon....... it's only been 4 years since I started.....

Cheers Ross - just starting out on this CNC lark so I will have a steep learning curve! The mill is a Denford Triac - only has a 1hp spindle and small table, but plenty for me to be going on with.

OK so I have some news...... Couldn't get the USB to serial converter to send data slow enough for my relic of a CNC so I splashed out on a £50 laptop from ebay. A quick play with th lin delay and bingo! Sends code perfectly! Thanks all for your help, I shall be in the mancave for the foreseable creating all sorts of amazing stuff. (and breaking endmills )

Don't cut a "V" as you will create a feather edge that will break up. Better to cut two parallel slots about 10mm deep either side of the crack then break out the material in between. You then want to get some repair material, a non shrink grout would be good and fill the nice hole you have just made. Only problem with this approach is most floor paints need to go on "old" concrete so you'll have to wait an age before over painting. The alternative is to use a non cementitious repair material but they tend to be spendy but don't need time to dry out so you can paint them quickly.