bishbosh

You have to deploy the steps and then immobilise them - button next to sunroof switch on a L322, not sure about L 405 but leaving a door open should stop that side moving.

With shocks that long you will need to change turrets and fit spacers to the gearbox cross member or your prop will hit it. (you need to do the second bit for +2" so will definitely need to for anything longer)

Well the bumper obviously needs to be stood up straight and then perhaps the two vertical bolts will fit? Sadly it appears that the bumper you bought doesn't use the lashing eye bolt holes too to make it a 6 bolt attachment which is preferable but not he end of the world.

My marbles are missing. Can you help Nige?

Wot Bowie said - David can make anything.

Possibly the xyz switch on its way out?

So as part* of some extensive remodelling of my place I have of course specced a new man cave: 6.5m x 6m with 4.5 x 2.5m door... oh..... and 3 phase when I want it . All I have to do now is decide what to put where...... *Most.

Good luck with your new mill. I had one similar to that in the past and had a lot of fun. Biggest headache is the lack of height adjustment of the head without losing your centre....

If you need building regs for this be aware that the proximity of trees (even recently deceased ) will impact on the required depth of your footings. Chat with your building inspector before pouring anything. I only know this as one wall of my new garage has 2.1m deep footings...... thanks to the building inspector......

A new chassis is appealing other than the epic price tag! Cannot justify it for my sh!t box - I'll just keep on welding!

I wish I could say the same - just discovered a hole in the chassis and body outrigger 3 weeks before MOT time! Nearly set fire to it I was so p'd off! Oh well, once the garage is built I can fix it at my leisure, until then it will be a SORN'd garden ornament.

Steve, Better off getting over to fullfatrr.com if you haven't been there already. All the knowledge you will need as it is dedicated to L322 and L405's. The workshop manual is also on there if you know where to look.

Regarding self spooling - I looked at this in the past for a centre mounted rear winch with a rear fairlead on a 90. To get the correct fleet angle (technical term ) I think the winch had to be something like 15 feet from the fairlead! If you search the forum for "fleet angle" there are a few references to enjoy.....

Suggest your rear winch is a 9,000lb winch. That is the most common (other than crazy twin motors for full on comps) Also try and have commonality of parts so you can scavenge from one to fix the other.... Plenty of build threads on here for rear and / or centre mounted winches.

Burying the timber shutter wont be an issue and will be cheaper than using concrete blocks ( which are equally fine!) . Yes it will rot but that is of no consequence in my opinion. You could also batter the slope or bench the slope which would require no formwork internally but would require more concrete. This is the route I would go down personally.

I think we need another photo without the supports... you know.... not that we don't believe you........

There are loads to chose from and your personal taste and budget are going to be the overriding factors! Dixon Fabrication make good nice looking ones, Goodwinch make good, cheap ones that are a bit bland in my opinion. Ebay has loads of varying quality. 5mm thick generally and preferably thicker for the winch plate. Avoid recovery points that are simply a hole in a plate perpendicular to the face of the bumper - try and get one with welded on "D" 's or swivel mounts (they are a bit Marmite though) Lastly, check the overall length and holding down bolt pattern of the G10 winch as it may not match the common dimensions of the smaller capacity winches that are more common.

Before you do that, buy yourself a propshaft nut tool - worth it's weight in gold

Yep, wot he said - a plastic marine fuel tank. There are trayback kits available for 90's that may be adaptable to a Disco. Or, which looks far more appealing in my view, something like this: http://www.whitbread-offroad.co.uk/roll_cage_challenge_trialer_spaceframe.php

On what vehicle?

To clear up the fibre debate - fibres, either polyprop or stainless are absolutely not a replacement for reinforcement. They are there to reduce cracking in the concrete due to shrinkage as it cures. They do add a little to the tensile strength of the mix but nothing like what reinforcement does. Regarding the blockwork wall solution to overcome the gradient, in principle it should work but you need to make sure the wall is strong enough to resist the compaction forces and then the wet concrete pressures. You will also need to think about the reinforcement detailing around the edge as you will get more settlement on the deeper subbase than the interior. However, the edge is less likely to be heavily loaded so may be a case of 6 and two threes. (unless you put engine blocks on racking around the edge!!) I would suggest you spend a few hundred quid getting a structural engineer to design something for you that is correct for your site and planned usage as then you will a) have a base for your workshop that you know is fit for purpose and b) have some PI insurance to claim against if it doesn't work. In the project budget that isn't a lot to spend in my opinion. Getting structural engineering advice off the internet (on a LR forum!! :D) is just dangerous in my opinion.

Problem with sliding doors is all that lost wall space for storing junk... errr useful spares.....

Have a read on Ashcroft's site too.......

Spooky! That is exactly the price point my indy recommended (supposedly "OEM") and I have one on order from him! Didn't fancy the £500 LR part

@sierrafery - that is some fantastic information thank you! So fixing the sensors should clear all 4 lights... fingers crossed! Now to find the right sensor / hub price point....