bishbosh

Welcome aboard Ben! No age limit, (after all, Lovejoy may be there! ) just a driving licence, road taxed vehicle, common sense and decent recovery points front and rear required. Oh, and a sense of humour! Hopefully I'll have a venue sorted out soon!

Well here you go Mark..... Some really rather sh!te photos, even by my standards! The fans themselves are about 75-80mm proud of the radiator (measured from the edge of the frame not the fins) Where the water pump nose is on the 3.9 there is about a 12mm gap between the nose and the shroud, which in this location is only 65mm proud of the radiator (between fan positions.) Approx shroud dimensions are 620mm wide x 420mm deep (V8 rad is about 435mm). There is about 2" of rad fins visible either side of the shroud. Fan diameter is 12". Mine's a pint

Questions questions! If you're lucky I'll nip into the garage tonight.... but as I said above, the cowl is exactly the same depth as a V8 RR rad and is IIRC about 2-3" narrower. It stands about 75 - 100mm proud of the rad (off the top of my head), but I shall go measure - maybe . As for diameter - who cares? They are more than man enough to keep my engine cool and thats with it lugging my leather seats around the place! As you saw at Bampton, they cooled the engine from off the scale to normal in under a minute. and yes, I did keep them in their original cowl - it fits snuggly against the rad thus improving efficiency.

I think you are on the right lines. Start with the easy ones first - check TRE's for play, then swap out the sterring damper for a known good one, then look at swivel preload. How much of a dead spot do you have in the steering around straight ahead? i.e. how much can you move the steering wheel before the wheels respond? Do you have a suspension lift? If so your castor angle will be out and this dramatically affects straight ahead sensitivity, partiucularly at speed. Good luck!

Modeo V6 with aircon. Twin 'leccy fans (don't know the diameter - sorry) in their shroud fit a V8 rangie rad perfectly - well, same heignt, slightly narrower. Of course, that may be no use at all if your new rad is a lot smaller than the V8 one. Oh, and we want an update on the website....... the latest moglite fix is well overdue

Cheers for the offer Geoff, but I'm in Weston-super-mud and have no funds for buying a welder. I'll be asking a certain short person if he feels inclined to do it for me....

Doesn't Simon do roof sliders as well as side sliders? I am sure he was looking for willing models for his kit a little while back. I'd say they'd be your best bet and I am sure you could negociate a bit of a discount....

Suspension doesn't self-level . In reality, not a lot as by now most of them have failed anyway. If you carry heavy loads or tow a lot you might want to uprate your rear springs instead.

Not wanting to teach any body's Grandmother to suck eggs, but you need to be extremely careful running tyres on the road at low pressures. The excessive sidewall flex causes the tyre to overheat and in the worst scenario - explode with disastrous consequences. Contrary to popular belief, under inflating is far more dangerous than over inflating, not that I'd advocate either for road use though. As I said, not saying anyone here is doing anything wrong, I just felt it should be said so anyone experimenting with tyre pressures knows the pitfalls.

What do they say about people who stick their noses in…..? I decided this weekend I would finally remove the totally battered plastic sill trims on the Bishtail in preparation for the rocksliders I will shortly be fitting. So on Saturday afternoon I was out with a nice sharp chisel and the plastic fixing studs (those that hadn't been ripped off already ) were soon no more. Easy. I then made my big mistake for the weekend and picked up my claw hammer and started "tapping" the sills to check for tin worm. Oh why oh why was I so foolish…? Off side rear: Near side rear: and worst of all, the bottom of the A post on the off side: and Bluddy typical Land Rover detailing to allow loads of cack in and stop it getting out again.. So today it was time to introduce Mr Grinder to Mr Sill and carved out some nice holes. Didn't finsh by a long shot but it looks as though the rot is pretty localised so I should be able to let in some new steel. I know it's nothing compares to some, but it's still abig deal, especially if you can't weld... Now, who fancies a bit of welding……?

Well, I have found a way around the problem - using my FM "device" B) I can listen to MP3's on the car radio and when Tom Tom wants to tell me something it just buts in over the top. Perfect in the Rangie as it gets a bit hard hearing the PDA speaker. Sorry to hear your speaker crapped out too James, but at least you sold it!

I wont elaborate to avoid getting into trouble - if you really want the details I'd suggest PM-ing Matt.

I would ask Matt Neale (off line) what he has to say........ I shall say no more.......

Jim, Unfortunately, classsic rangies are worth next to nothing. If you're dead set on selling then try a classified add first - with the engine in obviously and harp on about how sooper the engine is. You might get up to £2k if you're lucky. If you take the engine out then £700 to take the rest away is a fair price. RR bodywork is cheap as chips - I bought a roof, boot floor (ali) and two rear wings for £50. The only other bits worth anything are the axles, gearboxes and tailgates. The LPG system would fetch some cash too. Might be worth offering that separately. I'm sure Digger90 will be along shortly to price up the bits for you....

Si, When I did mine I went throught three different thermoswitches until I got one that cut in and out at the right time - despite having loads of advice as to what the "right" temperatures should be. With the "right" switch in place the fans were cutting in too early - the temp gauge had barely reached the "normal" position when running a viscous fan. It would appear that under bonnet temperatures have a marked effect on the thermoswitch. Perhaps for a typical TDi 90 you might get away with one switch, but I am fairly confident that all the fueling tweeks and boost tweeks that people make will affect it. When you start talking about V8 conversions then it will all go out the window too. My switch (on a 3.9EFi RR un modified) is quite a bit hotter than you would predict for normal operation, but I never get the temp gauge above 1/2 way (unless a fuse blows eh Mark! ) Just my 2p..... and don't listen to those "blue" boys....!!

To everyone (except Will & James ), thank you for your ideas. I think the speaker has probably died a death or become disconnected / dirty as Simon suggests. I do not however intend to take what is otherwise a fully working device apart - I just know what the rersult of that will be! I am about to experiment with Media player, Tom Tom and an FM device B) in the car to see if I can "bypasss" the speaker.......

I like the red one....... ...... but I like the blue one too......... ........but I've got a gold one under the bonent already! (Well it is a Range Rover! ) Oh, and if it costs more than a bottle of claret then you'll have competition from Bull Bar Cowboy

The speaker on my HP IPAQ 2210 has stopped working.The headphone jack still works but nothing form the speaker. For a short time I could intermitently get the speaker to work, but now nothing. I have tried soft and hard resets to no avail. Any ideas?

in the bottom of the timing case....? On the floor of your garage? In your back pocket? In the glove box? Do I win? What's my prize?

Looking good Nick! Good luck with the MOT tomorrow......

Well if you're sure it is not the drawers then I'd say Nige has hit the nail on the head with a loose shock mount.

All monkey's most welcome. You can slum it with me if you like.

This is what I was trying to present (I think ) in the right hand side of my sketch. However, I think the best suggestion so far is to put in a standard hoop with double cross bracing. I somehow managed to miss that post on my first read through... It is proven and should be relatively easy if you are happy to chop the box out about. You'd just have to sort out mounting brackets to connect it through the side of the vehicle to the external cage.

Don't like the look of your second picture Si . You're tubes will bend under vertical load and the foot on the box out will go straight through it. Obviously the ideal route involves straight lines and triangles, but I presume you cannot "modify" the box out beneath the speaker? I presume it would afect the bass reverb! Er, sorry, back to the issue in hand: On the right is what you'd ideally want to achieve but you can't because of the box out. On the left is a vague attempt at getting around the corner whilst maintaining some vertical stiffness The hatched areas are gussets welded between the tubes to try and add some bending strength. With the two hoops so close together you could also gusset between the internal braces to try and avoid front-to-back deflection of the braces. As we are talking about a primary piece of safety equipment, I would like to stress (no pun intended) that I have not carried out any calcs and the layout shown is only an idea. I would councel speaking to a cage specialist, if only for advice. Hands up who's confused......

Despite your assertions, I would suspect the A frame ball joint. Do you get a clonk when you pick up drive (other than the usual drive train clunk of course! )