Pete Attryde

Evening, As above anyone know the Part Number of the Throttle Pot for an 1996 EDC 300TDi Discovery? Cheers in advance, Pete.

Mine also did this I found that the nozzle on the back door had corroded up internally and was not letting any water out, never found a leak in the pipe just cleaned the nozzles with a pin and it all started working again. However the jet is now starting to get weak again so I think I am going to replace the nozzle next time. Pete.

Can I update my order to one large, and one XXXL, please? Paypal is no problem. Ta. Pete.

Definately up for at least one in size large. Pete.

Just to bring this full circle I have now made and fitted a snorkel although I did not use drainpipe in the end. Having recently changed jobs I discovered some 80mm OD thin wall ally tube laying around. I asked around at work and found that it was part of the exhaust flue for the Micro-CHp units we are testing at the moment. A bit of further digging uncovered a 90 degree and a couple of 45 degree bends and slightly oddly some totally un-used samco hoses of the correct size that were about to be binned. All were liberated and then over the easter weekend I applied them all to the truck with the following results. Having driven the truck for a week I found that the original top was some what noisey with the windows or sunroof open so I made a second one. The good thing about this pipe being a flue for boilers is that the pipe and bends have a gas tight seal built in. the seal. I am reasonably happy that the system is water tight as I put a peice of card over the end of the pipe and the engine very rapidly stalled and I could not hear any air being drawn into the system. The Original airbox got replaced as at some point in the past someone had drilled a load of 1" holes in the front of it so sealing it up was going to be a pain in the arse, plus I now have easily got enough space for a second battery for when I get a winch. Pete

As many have said before a fantastic resource would be lost if this forum were to disappear. Would also be happy to purchase a t-shirt or some such other forum related merchandise to help the funds. Could well be up for the Treasure Hunt as well. Have sent a donation via paypal. Pete.

Craddocks list one: RBI100000 panhard rod 1997 to 2002 £40 plus vat, about half way down the 90/110 suspension page. HTH Pete.

Jules, May not be useful due to the miles that you do but, Colway do a 255/65/16 in an A/T. Pete.

This lot are local to you and do Optima. Specialist leisure However I have no knowledge of them as I have not used them myself. Pete.

Don't know if it applies to the AFm on V8's but with things like the peugeot 205 GTi which uses the flap type AFM you have to be careful of the orientation as the spring is set to suit the mounting position. ie if it is mounted on it's side originally then should be mounted the same when repositioned (usually when fitting an induction kit) as failing to do so screws the fueling up quite badly. HTH Pete.

I have a 1996 300TDi Auto, Which although not the fastest thing in the world holds it own off the traffic lights pretty well, will cruise a 70 on the motorway all day and returns around 30+ish mpg on my normal run to work which is a mix of A and B roads. Off road I found the change from 1st to 2nd when in low range can be a bit harsh but easy enough to drive around. and by shifting manually to low 2nd will quite happily go down most hills offroad in a nice controlled way. I also have 31" tyres which has made it a bit slower of the mark but not hugely so and I intend to fit 1.4:1 transfer box which will help with this. Mods wise all I have done is remove the EGR valve and fitted a none CAT downpipe. I also cleaned out the inlet manifold and intercooler which definately made it run better. HTH Pete.

I would go along with Mark and use a jigsaw, however if you want to cut by hand you could use an abrafile (sp) is similar to a coping saw. has a round file type blade but not the easiest thing to cut a straight line with. HTH Pete.

Falkland Islands.

Mine also seems to run just under the half way mark pretty much regardless of how hard I work it and how hot the day is. Pete.

When I did mine I went for the change the oil and filter, then drive for about 500 miles and change just the oil again, the oil that came out on the change was certainly quite dirty implying that it flushed quite a bit out of the torque converter. The drips that are now appearing on the bottom of the box from a leak that I can't as yet find are quite clean which indicates to me that most of the very old oil that was in the system has been removed. HTH Pete

I bought one last week and it definately is fully greaseable has 4 grease nipples, 3 for the U/Js and one for the slider. I think Liz said they now have them made like this. Pete.

Have replied in the other post. Pete.

I would suggest fitting a double cardon propshaft from a TD5, although it might be easier to get one from someone like Devon 4x4 as they are made to be fully greasable and have the correct flanges fitted so you don't need to change the one on the transfer box. HTH Pete.

That's how i did it on my Disco. HTH Pete.

Thanks for that very handy information. Pete.

I don't actually know the torque setting I just did it up as tight as I could get it. . I couldn't find a figure in any of the manuals I have. Pete.

Here is how I removed the rear diff flange on my 1996 300 TDi discovery with the rubber 'rotoflex' coupling rather than a conventional UJ. For safety ensure that the vehicle is onlevel hard ground, diff lock is engaged and that the handbrake is on as well as chocking at least 2 wheels. First un-bolt the propshaft from the 'rotoflex' this is held on by three large bolts and will require 2x 19mm spanners. Now depending on the reason for removing the diff flange you can either slide the prop back of the central pin and tie it up out of the way or if the prob is be changed as in my case (to a wide angle douple U/J prop.) undo the 4 14mm nuts at the handbrake end (the bolts are captive.). It may be to release the handbrake and the diff lock to allow the handbrake drum to turn for access to the nuts, when they are all undone the propshaft can be removed. This should leave you with a rear diff that looks like this:- reapply the hand brake and diff lock to stop the vehicle moving. Next to remove the centre pin I used a blowlamp to gently heat the pin to flange joint to soften the loctite used to secure the push fit pin. I then used a long (150mm) M8 bolt and large socket and the new drive flange to make a puller to pull the pin out. Like this:- Tightening the M8 bolt draws the pin out, I found that I had to add an additional spacer to the puller as the bolt seemed to bottom out before the pin came out on the first attempt. With the pin removed you should then be able to see the 24mm nut that holds the flange to the diff, This nut is very tight, I found that I had to use the vehicle weight to undo it. With this undone and removed the flange should then slide out of the diff casing. At this point it is probably worth replacing the diff seal as per Les's thread here. Refitting the flange or a new flange is just a case of sliding it down the splines and then re-tightening the 24mm nut to the correct torque setting. The pin then needs cleaning and re-loctiting and then gently tapping into the centre of the flange until it is flush. and then re-install the propshaft. HTH Pete.

bluboy, My 300 TDi had the same EGR system, mine has an EDC engine, if you follow the thin vaccum pipe all the way to it's end there is a solenoid valve on the inner wing. I believe this is controlled by the EDC systems ECU rather than a seperate one used on the non EDC engines. when I removed my EGR i just un-plugged the solenoid connection and tied it back into the loom and then removed it and all the pipework along with the valve. It is well worth removing it if it is not working as it will be choking the engine inlet tract up with nasty black 'marmite'. HTH Pete

I would go for Number 2 or Number 4. and as pointed out above, Number 4 does definately give the I wish I was there factor as well as identifying the BFG product in a subtle way. Pete