steve b

I'd loosen the cap before removing it just because it's held in place. When I did the single acting ram seals on my 4 post I used Ipswich Hydraulics for the seals, but now I would use Agri-hire - Mervyn is a hydraulics wiz. There is also FW Stennett not far from you, they have a lot of Ag based stock and are also very knowledgeable Also Impact Handling in Claydon - fork lift specialists I've had 2 of those machines and wish I'd kept the full free lift one.......... Steve

Worth a look though as the spacer would only be a plain ring to weld each side with this scheme Steve

I was thinking take the LR bell bolt face off all together then cut the Lexus housing bell and bolt flange at the right length to fit then weld up, doing away with an adaptor lump ? Steve

What about the correct bell housing for the 1uz and the LR bell housing coming together with the band saw and TIG welder? Steve

Respray in the same colour? 2k or synthetic enamel? It's a sizeable job to paint as stripped down parts and if you're going that far will the front inner arches and BH get galvanised before paint? I'm about to do a BH change on an on the road 90sw and the replacement BH is refurb'd , galv'd and painted body colour - the galv and paint (2k) came to just under £750... pm me if you would like to meet up for a chat, I'm not far from you in mid-Suffolk. I'm also in the middle of an 88 2a new chassis build and a 110sw new chassis/major refurb including galvanising the original BH. Steve

looking good Stephen Steve

What colour sticker do the airliners landing in Paris have? Greenwash does not put out wild fires........ Steve

Welcome to the forum I spectated several AWDC events at Peters pit in the 80's , there were some cracking comp. safari's held there. Steve

Is the pedal pivot slightly siezed or tight? Have you tried pulling the clevis pin out of the pedal to servo rod connection to check free pedal movement? If nothing obvious shows itself maybe an extra spring from the pedal to one of the box bolts like the series clutch return style might do it ? Steve

Is the pedal box and servo can the original 109 unit? Will the pedal return to the resting stop if you lift it by hand? The brake light switch adjustment on the 109 pedal box can be a bit sensitive Steve

Good result and info for other Santana owners id needed Steve

If you have rubber flexible hoses clamping these off will tell if the mc is faulty , if good the pedal will be solid aside fro the pre-set free-play Are the springs behind the shoes? And are the springs new? I've had similar down to the new cylinder seals being less tight combined with new springs being too forceful thus pulling the trailing shoe into the cylinder too far. then the next pedal push goes way too far. Does the pedal come up and stay up with pumping then keep pushing on last push? Steve

Yeah, more rpm and power - well suited to today's road use , more so than the F-head originally fitted. TC would be even better too in the 2200cc later spec. Steve

Thanks - I thought it looked familiar but just couldn't place it Steve

Spotted in a local-ish auction listing Any idea what engine this is ? Thanks Steve

@Stellaghost ....I did wonder who you were trying to convince when you said to me last week you wouldn't start the 1UZ project until next year That's a very good finish for cast iron too , quality work as always Steve

That's interesting, I read the first ad quote and thought it sounded just like 17h. I think I know where his lost stick is...........

The plug on the left in the last pic appears to have bare copper strand(s) near the white wire? I want to suggest the switch might be from the Iveco parts bin, but that is only based on what I remember hearing years ago somewhere.. Are the colours to an EU/TUV standard of some sort? It may help to decode the loom Steve

Is there enough difference to put a sleeve on the 1UZ bolts to fit the Tdi holes? Is there a dowel or could you add one or two? Another question at the other end , how splash/waterproof is the cambelt cover? Steve

Welcome to the forum, Can you post a pic or two of the wiring to the connectors and the switches? That might help to identify which parts bin the switches came from . The Hazard lights should be fed by a permanent live so in theory would still work with a fault in the indicator switch. Could be a faulty flasher/hazard relay too Steve

Auto, you won't regret it - with the portals and diff locks, tyres, a torquey V8 and suspension travel it really does round it off Just for reference, since you opened your van back doors in my yard I have not looked at Lexus V8's for sale at all , well not much............or V8 TLC's at all........ Steve

@dangerous doug Indeed , that was what I was alluding to . I'm very interested to see the weighbridge number for Sid as weight and excess transmission load are related and that roach is no chunker by any standards Steve

@dangerous doug, do you know what tyres were on that grenaded portal box? Also what terrain ? Rock crawling in the Moab is a lot different to bog hopping in the borders. I think the V8 will work fine for Stephen's truck and for me I think auto would work really well. The constraint is space for the extra length but that could be mitigated by extending the wheelbase a little more if needed maybe? Steve

Maybe, but equally could be driveshaft joint or a locked up VC winding the transmission up on tight corners Steve

glad to help and equally thanks for the parts from your treasure store. The heater and diff are for the 88 re-chassis you saw and the rear bumperettes are for a friend with an FFR 109 that was de-militarised by a previous owner so they will give the back end some originality again Steve