steve b

Is your wastegate free to move ? if it's stuck open you will lose boost and get lots of black smoke . As BM says check the boost pressure lines to the FIP and also maybe pop the diaphragm cover off the top of the FIP and make sure its free to move down under pressure Also check the air filter hose to turbo for delaminating internally . If you squeeze the intercooler to manifold pipe and give it a rev does the pipe try to expand ? It does sound like you have plenty of fuel but no turbo pressure cheers Steveb

...well I just think as you have had a problem it's worth a quick check up at a Diesel IP specialist my other experience with worn VE pump's is if it needs anything done internally get a full overhaul as just fixing the minimum may not be a saving in the long run ...it's just a gut feeling but you have to wonder about the difference in diesel today compared to when these FIP's were new back in the 90's cheers Steveb

It sounds like the HP fuel rail drilling has micro-cracks allowing diesel into the engine oil . It happened to a mate of mine and it dumped enough diesel into the sump to kill the bearings and crank . I'm not sure how you would test for it ? Maybe head off and test at a diesel inj. specialist? hth - er sort of Steveb

9/16 UNF x 8" sounds like it could be head bolt size for a larger diesel engine ? maybe a Perkins 540 V8 or some sort of Leyland? Have you looked Stateside? Unified is still common there I think cheers Steveb

It's not just the size and shape , but also the level of heat and the cooling method , ie air cooled / quenched - in what ? . Are you looking for hardness or toughness? Is it a bearing surface? lots of variables , Nige . For a start I'd talk to your local Heat treaters , in my area Middleton Heat Treatment do lots of gears and shafts as well as Boron Ag stuff hth Steveb

...only last week I saw a Tdi with the path of the cambelt cut into the cover as neat as you like , almost looked like a laser cut, right through in places . It was running apparently ok . This was due to the FIP having about 5mm of end float in the shaft. This is the 2nd in a year , so I wouldn't class the VE as bulletproof by any means . I'm not sure what the max end float is but you can be sure it's not much ... cheers Steveb

Another vote for 110 , a much better ride and while the back of a 90 HT looks big , it really isn't , and a 110 to all intents is just as useable off road as a 90 and more stable in many situations. As for the 200 vs 300 discussion there is not really anything to choose . Parts for both are still available generally , it's more about selecting a good example of whichever flavour you are looking at . J and K plate defenders do seem more rust prone than earlier or later examples , but that's just my observations And I'd definitely give it a good shakedown here before shipping , but sensible buying and good standard of servicing and inspection by a specialist would set it up for hassle free island life cheers Steveb

Mav Do you reverse polarity when on gasless wire ? As for reg's the bottle level gauge is handy but flow is not necessary as I always set flow to just enough to get no porosity cheers Steveb

:hysterical: couldn't agree more Bill , as for the post Q , it's something I first noticed many years ago , and decided I could live with it as it sort of confirms things are ok with the fan motor. Right now I haven't had a engine driven fan or electric on my 200Tdi 109 for over 4 yrs and had no overheating problems cheers Steveb

Hi Neill It's the flat part - valve spring retainer- that you need to compress to a low enough point to remove the split collets . It helps to give the retainer a tap with a copper hammer to release the grip the outer tapered part of the collets will probably have on the retainer . It makes the operation a lot more predictable. Use a magnetic pick to remove the collets. As for tdc , I'd remove the heater plugs and go in with a long thin screw driver to find tdc , with all the HP's out the engine will be nice and free to turn too cheers Steveb

Its around 100bar / 1400psi iirc so crimped hydraulic type fittings are required . is the steering box 200Tdi era too ? There are imperial threads on early PAS boxes and metric on later ones cheers Steveb

I reckon you are right cwazywabbit , power feed , now you said that I remember it was under power on the FD prog with two massive coils of swarf coming off a big drill running at a slow rpm - 60rpm ? I bet its on youtube somewhere cheers Steveb

isn't that a backgear arrangement for low range Mike? I wonder what the front flatbelt pulley cluster is for? I'm sure I saw Fred Dibnah using a very similar drill in his yard on one of his most excellent tv progs A lovely bit of history cheers Steveb

JeffR - you have an affinity for the Green Oval in all it's glory and a truly great way of putting in type , it made me laugh out loud and put a smile on my face - great stuff cheers Steveb

That's a great idea Iain might have to knock one up for myself I've used Allmakes and Bearmach fan VC's and have both been fine cheers Steveb

steering shaft knuckles 1st , then backlash in box - make sure it's centred first and note Rednecks post, then maybe the steering box hth Steveb

have you got both nuts on the pull rod above the trunnion ? I've found it works better with one above and one below, locked to the trunnion . With both above the rod and trunnion can act as a ratchet pulling the HB on as the transmission moves relative to the chassis cheers Steveb

Once you have an OEM filter kit , say Mahle or Fram you will have the part no's , so surely you must be able to source from a local motor or agricultural factor? the same filter is often used across a wide range of applications. .....actually it may be a good idea to generate a list of x-ref numbers for filters and belts here in the Tech archive? Who do you use for mail order? Britcar is often recommended on here for supplying what you ask for cheers Steveb

Good to hear EJ , what are your plans for it now? cheers Steveb

Having the shoes on wrong will result in losing the pedal as Phil says , it also applies to 110 rear drums too . It's a bloody silly design to make them look like they are all the same but aren't . Have found it frequently , and always with a soft pedal........ you will be amazed at the difference in the pedal, the adjusters will feel positive too cheers Steveb

while we are talking about off topic stuff then HH lets see a pic of the air boat , I assume that you are talking Florida style They always look really unstable but don't seem so under power cheers Steveb

Great build Mike , top quality all round. I'm sure the dash moulding will sell well, what have you done about heating ducts in the mould? cheers Steveb

I've just started building a pto pump powered splitter , when there is something to look at I'll post some pics That Bobcat firewood processor attachment is pretty cool , but I bet the price isn't Have a look on Mowersdirect.com at the self powered splitters for some inspiration too cheers Steveb

Oh dear Nigel , Rusty really is trying to break you ......the Clio will have been driven to the chippy but you will be walking ....... no I didn't have a coat and yes I'm going ..... seriously , I know what you are going through and I also know you will overcome keep at it Steveb

from pedal adjustment being incorrect - but you say you haven't disturbed the m/cyl I'd remove the slave from the bellhousing - don't disconnect the hydraulics and make sure you have clearance , if the piston is pushed all the way in and is still pushing on the release arm it'll slip . cheers Steveb