steve b

pm sent with a couple of numbers , hopefully the independent will be able to help you cheers Steveb

No reply just yet , have you asked the campsite owners if they know of a LR specialist locally? cheers Steveb

will get in touch with a mate over there and see if there is anyone about that can help A 2 1/4 or 2.5 diesel starter is the same I believe be back in a bit cheers Steveb

Looks like you had a good weekend , got any more pics ? good to hear its all gone quiet cheers Steveb

could it be the flex plate sheared at the crank mount ? there is usually some noise though if this happens . Does it still lock in P ? cheers Steveb

Great work Mike , it's really coming together and the level of detail and planning is amazing , the two of you have obviously put a lot of thought and years of travel experience into this cheers Steveb

mmm very nice Nige I bet you are still grinning cheers Steveb

Like all projects , he will need to think about what he wants from it , what use it will be put to and where it will be garaged . there are plenty of good series II /III's about that are quite genuine , its all in the detail , like chassis number in place and the right axles and engine/gearbox for a good basis for a classic restoration . A Series I could be a better option as a full ground up build , they can be found for sensible money still and are truly the original and best cheers Steveb

fill with grease and in use don't put the power on when on lock , it'll be fine I'd say . And do check that VC if they lock up the cv's or axle diff are usually the first sign have a good drive and post up pics then get it checked out properly if you are not confident , but with good basic tools and axle stand(s) you can do it in a day cheers Steveb

iirc it's a grub screw that holds the selector lever to the shaft in the housing . Just take the block off and tighten the grub screw , not a big job just a bit fiddly with space. Some Threadlock glue could be used on the grubscrew if you want to cheers Steveb

Ah no drive , I'd agree with Dan . I expect the thrust has gone through the diaphragm fingers as they usually go as well when the straps go . Why are you having stop sol. issues ? veg oil related? cheers Steveb

Rakeway do an aluminium thrust brg - the ally replaces the kak plastic brg holder/sleeve section of the std thrust brg . Does it still drive ok starting in gear etc? must admit it sounds like the thrust to me cheers Steveb

Same experience here cheapies fitted to a mates 200 90 , and it vibrated much worse than it did before , replaced those with genuine , and much smoother at tickover and up the rev range cheers Steveb

Ah the power of the new moon.... Good to hear Michele , once they are bedded in , all your worries about brakes from the last century will fade cheers Steveb

Hey Michele ..so the pain continues How about removing the back plate without disconnecting the brake circuit and positioning the backplate so that the bleed nipple is highest - leave the shoes on and re-fit the drum to hold shoes in place, wind the adjusters out to hold drum in place . Use a pipe from the bleed nipple into a jar of fluid so that the end is in the fluid and the jar is higher than the nipple , open up and bleed. Each full stroke of the brake pedal should lower the fluid in the reservoir noticeably . If you have a spare reservoir cap and a bolt in Schrader valve from a tubeless motorcycle wheel , drill cap to take valve and pump with a cycle pump - it only needs a few psi to work or a regulated flow from a compressor , but only say 4-8 psi . the fluid will flow without moving the pedal , just open the nipple . hope that helps Steveb

I thought they were M16 std thread =24mm nut ? ..you are referring to the std Disco/RRC type mount and not the defender type? cheers Steveb

What about an old leccy window motor with a pulley/belt reduction to rotating table and a variable resistor type thing . Then a brush contact for your earth and away you go.... With good bearings you shouldn't need many torques , belt and pulley off an old washing machine for good reduction and maybe mount turntable onto a LR stub axle / hub etc cheers Steveb

Keep us posted how you get on with it on the road Kierran , any real world reporting of different engine conversions is always a good thing . Has anyone looked at the later commonrail Iveco's? , we have a 3.5t 3.1l Iveco flat bed at work and it pulls like a train with a load on cheers Steveb

Hi Josh What oil are you running ? it should be engine oil iirc It does sound like synchro ring wear Cheers Steveb

Just out of interest , can we see some pics of your engine bay and adaptor to gearbox , the Iveco 2.5 is a common engine and not a bad unit to boot cheers Steveb

Is the electric stop solenoid working properly? You can remove it and take the plunger out to bypass it cheers Steveb

Hi Which ever way you cut it a Land Rover based concept is going to be overweight at 3.5T for vehicle and 4T for a trailer with powered brakes I'd be looking at something in the 13t - 16t MAM ex Mil as others have said or an articulated unit that could be converted to 4x4 on the tractor unit ...some friends of friends built a mobile stage into a 7.5t truck and were amazed when it finished up at over 8.5t with no driver good luck with the project , it sounds fun cheers Steveb

It sounds like you are making progress 1. the pushrod on the m/cyl must be loose against the piston when the pedal is at rest against the stop ie held by the return springs. In this position with the cover plate off you should be able to hold the pushrod with some wire nose pliers and feel free play side to side . The nuts either side of the pedal trunnion should be tight 2. adjust the snailcams until they drag then back off one or two clicks. The ones that feel vague may be worn or the pin in the shoe may not be in the right position - rare but I have seen it you should have about a fifth of the pedal travel as free movement then another 20-40mm of travel to fully hard pedal keep at it Michele , nearly there cheers Steveb

loosening a pipe will relieve the pressure Michele as your mechanic says If you do it at the m/c on the front circuit and it releases the front brakes then it will prove the flexy's are ok and would also suggest the pedal adj is not quite right . If they are still locked when you do this then try releasing a pipe nut between the flexy and the wheel cyl and if that works then the flexy is your problem As others have said once the system is working and set you should find it quite reliable cheers Steveb

Hey Michele It sounds like the front flexi pipes may have broken down internally and are acting as a one way valve? hth - 'tis frustrating when a load of new stuff goes on and there are still problems cheers steveb