steve b

just looked at the pics again , and yeah no prv , that's an expensive 12v spool with no prv . Iirc the last prv block I bought was about £50 , so not too expensive . will pm to talk about MM's cheers Steveb

Ah ok , in the back sounds like the place for it . Are you putting a lockout/overcentre valve on the winch motor? ....if you want a MM for the back I have a couple of spare ones MM on a pto pump will pull at a good speed and load in 5th . With the std motor you probably don't want to be ay higher than 180bar on your prv . cheers Steveb

..no space under the bonnet? The coil is removable so you could swap for 12v easily , remove the nut on the end of the coil and slide it off. With 12v going into a 24v coil you may find it's not fully opening.... cheers Steveb

I have a pair that I don't need , I'll post up a pic tomorrow if I get time cheers Steveb

maybe slightly higher tyre pressures would help? 40psi front 45psi back? the SAG is a blocky tread so maybe stiffer tyre walls will help? cheers Steveb

what is the tracking set at ? I run mine at 0 degrees Kingpins all good? and bushes on the hockey sticks ? and what tyre pressures ? cheers Steveb

Hi John while the top is off the carbs bring the main jet up to level with the venturi on each using the mixture screw . I do this using the end of a steel rule on the flat bit of the venturi over the jet and then wind it up to touch . then lower it 1 1/2 turns of the screw as a base point to run it and fine tune. Check the needles are set in the same circlip groove on both pistons as well. Pop the link rod off one carb and loosen the throttle cable , then undo the butterfly stop screw until it is off the butterfly , then bring back in touch with the pad on each , then clockwise 1 1/2 turns as a base point . adjust the link rod to fit back without it opening either butterfly and no slack as the butterflys open , then adjust throttle to suit When the settings are right the piston lift pin should bring revs up slightly and then settle down again Set the points with a dwell gauge if you have one 26-28deg iirc and make sure the gap adjuster is tight to turn , the little plastic nut( under the baseplate) it goes thru can get loose hope that's of some use to you cheers Steveb

On the last set I fitted for someone the bolt head was too big to fit into the counterbore in the door section of the hinge , so I took some metal off the bolt head dia with a flap wheel cheers Steveb

I think they are known as morse cables ,that may help your search ? I have one operating my hyd spool valve for my winch cheers Steveb

my great grandfather fought in the Boer War and then volunteered at the start of WW1 and was a prisoner of war in the Ardennes from 1915 til 1919 when he finally returned home . He lived to be 93 and died in 1965 ...........and right now an airliner has been shot down full of people completely unconnected to the conflict that ultimately released the missile while UN sanctuaries in Gaza are being shelled killing people without deciding who is "insurgent" and who is not ............ I will never forget But I doubt it will ever make sense this world we have created needs a f**king reality check ...........life is not about money , religion or location That said I have travelled to the other side of the planet in my time and every person I met was I real human person so the dichotomy of our lives versus our "collective" goal is a BIG question .......... .....peace and love peeps Steveb

check your flexible pipework between the turbo and inlet for internal delamination too , when they do it acts as a flap valve and destroys flow let us know how it goes cheers Steveb

there is sometimes an earth from the end of the main motor case to the engine block , although it isn't really required as the earth runs thru the casing and mounting bolts cheers Steveb

that does sound like the solenoid is packing up Mark , as diggervan says test in situ by removing the smaller white/red wire from the blade terminal on the end of the solenoid , rather than a screwdriver , I use a short wire with a blade terminal onto the blade then touch the end to the battery side of the two large studs . If it works normally it's a wiring fault - normally the switch module on the back of the steering lock. If it still shows the same click and nothing it's the solenoid. Tdi and 2 1/4 and 2.5 diesel starters are all the same so will inter-change hth Steveb

the hydraulics would work fine from the pto for this sort of use , you could even use a 12v hyd pump off a 3.5t tipper if you aren't in a big hurry - the flow is lower on these units. So , how much do 64 bales weigh max? , that's where the idea may come unstuck as there will be upward force on the tow hitch as you pick up and unload........... cheers Steveb

what are you hoping to do with the hydraulics , Ben? just a pick up hitch or hydraulic services? I'd say engine driven , because of the faff of engaging/disengaging the 'box driven pump and shifting to neutral on the t/box to get flow . cheers Steveb

The main earth problem is usually the one on the bulkhead - just to the side of the clutch pedal box under the bonnet . You'll find it easily as it should have 5 or 6 black wires with ring terminals . Run one from there to battery and check all the others , battery to gearbox and engine to chassis usually near the engine mount on the exhaust side keep us posted on your progress cheers Steveb

positive pressure is used as std on most Unimogs across the transmission components. Autsin Champs used a low vacuum in the same way and were designed to wade to 6' deep . What do the deep wading military LR's use? cheers Steveb

as said above , try to avoid it if poss , muddy water holes are a recipe for long term probs , mud in the chassis for one . To check the effectiveness of your snorkel/raised air intake block the top with the engine ticking over , if it doesn't stop instantly (1-2sec max) then you have more to do ....water in the air intake on a diesel will damage the engine . Use a ball bigger than the RAI or a sheet of rubber pressed on with a piece of wood/metal to do the test cheers Steveb

there are 2 types of oil cooler fittings face seal o ring and tapered seat , so make sure you get the right ones , if it's leaking o rings it'll be coming out between the nut and the male fitting , more likely seeping past the crimped end of the flexipipe and the rigid section , quite common as the pipes get old I'd stick new ones on OE or Bearmach cheers Steveb

This is an interesting subject , and one I've given thought to over the years . My gut feel is retained springs do help to show when the vehicle is near the limit and make sideslope driving a bit easier to feel . 'Mog coil springs are retained both ends with a central bolt ring I seem to recall a year or two ago someone on here had access to 4 wheel weigh scales . it would be interesting to see what the weights are on a dislocating system for all four wheels just after the point of DL on cross axle and at almost full twist too food for thought ? edit to add : the centre of mass height and down the length of the vehicle will also make a difference to stability near the limit of travel too and that is probably different for each and every 4x4 ...........so it does all become a bit of a neverending loop discussion . It would still be good to see actual kgs for a given truck though cheers Steveb

My C plate V8 90 has one which is an original fit , I thought all V8 90 and 110's had the LT85, but I might be wrong Cheers Steveb

.....and the Santana 5spd for the V8 90 . It's a long first motion shaft and bell housing so it would make for a long combo with an OM606 cheers Steveb

Some quality machining and fab as always DD , it looks like being a well sorted conversion . the calipers and mounts are what I'm really interested to see . Daan , the bigger 'Mogs have twin calipers all round , the second pair on the rear being for the air HB cheers Steveb

Have you looked at the Mazda 3.5 SLT (?) diesel ? turbo or non-turbo . I drove one in a RRC and it was smooth and had great torque Isuzu 2.8/3.1 is also good cheers Steveb

Can you post up some pic's of Carl's design Ross? so we can all see them for comparison to the others on offer cheers Steveb