steve b

If its a pure mech pump ie not EDC then a decent independent Diesel specialist should be able to do it , with the proviso below It sounds just like the s/h one I put on for someone last year , it started and went straight to full revs... It was a stuck governor which was repaired along with new seals and checking fuel delivery/calibration for a bit under £400 ......however the vehicle was back within 6 months ,not turning off with key....it wasn't the stop solenoid failed as you'd think . When I pulled the stop solenoid off the pump a load of large metal flakes came out of the rotor head and a load more with a small magnetic screwdriver. So the moral of the tale is .... beware s/h FIP's that are not stored full of diesel and properly sealed too I'd ask about a Bosch service exchange unit , I've used M&C diesel near Colchester and thought the service and price was good - they might do something by courier cheers Steveb

That's a good response from your supplier I always use gen seals on the engine - not ******G type or OE and had a rear crank seal go in much the same way within a year of fitting . It has , so far , been the only occasion in over 20 years of LandRover fixing cheers Steveb

what about the electric vac pump off an RRC with ABS? iirc they have a tank too to hold a reserve? I too am intrigued how engine oil has found its way inside the HB drum , presumably there is a trail of engine oil underneath all the way back to the HB... An alternator driven vac pump would be my choice , the hassle would be running the oil pressure feed - could be from oil light switch port cheers Steveb

I would have thought an early 2door RRC bodyshell pulled down to individual steel parts would be fine for galving , maybe a few braces on weak bits - sideframe rear window/ roof edge etc . The outer skin is all ally apart from rear wing corners so any distortion and subsequent fettling would be hidden? As for cost , its based on weight of zinc applied , parts are weighed in and out of the platers so make sure there are plenty of drain holes in sections cheers Steveb

Those top mount kits are pretty rubbish I reckon , intercooler looks way too small and by far the biggest issues are it being right on top of the engine and cutting big holes in the bonnet . I suspect you are right Lewis , getting a universal IC or a scrapyard take off and having a little play will be the best value cheers Steveb

This a bit O/T but if it's ok with the Mods and the collective? I'm sure there are a few on here that have a TLC or experience of the marque, does anyone know of a kit to fit an intercooler supplied in the UK ? I've been on fleabay and there are some listings in Oz which are quite spendy.... ...the other way would be to knock something together from scratch, any thoughts on the flow rate to aim for ? Its a 1HD engine TIA cheers Steveb

Don't wait too long or you'll be in the same boat as Will W - the only colour available for his 90 is Sepia now ...... The white - arctic white ? is nice , my C reg V8 90 is trident green and looks good . My personal choice is deep bronze green from the Series range cheers Steveb

Yep low rpm is key , std pillar drills are way too quick , a handheld with low gear and speed control trigger does the job. Needless to say holding it square to the sheet is also important to avoid breaking thru on one side of the cut first. I have snap on and bahco holesaws and they are both good . nice dash btw cheers Steveb

That's a really good idea Lewis , I might look into that as I'm about to build a splitter cheers Steveb

I'm still using sockets and spanners that I was given as a 13yr old several decades ago and it reminds me of the spirit of the gift as I use them it's all good , tinkering = invention and inspiration Steveb

Hi Richard It sounds like the servo is packing up , its worth checking the non return valve and the rubber seal it fits into on the servo first cheers Steveb

nice , definately Series 1 probably 88" WB and maybe ex-military by the look of the headlight rings , but they could have been fitted later .. As above it should have either a 2litre petrol F head with an element oil filter or the 2 litre diesel similar to the 2 1/4 diesel and no synchro on 1st and 2nd chassis no is sometimes on kerbside engine mount chassis bracket , the engine no on the petrol is at the front edge of the face the exh manifold is bolted to . Have fun with it , a proper LandRover cheers Steveb

Welcome to The forum for LandRover tech and info , I hope you enjoy exploring it Is your RRC auto or manual? they always look good with mud terrains on Which P&P sites have you used? cheers Steveb

Some more detailed/bigger pics would be nice Donald . There are some snowploughs on ebay made from large bore plastic pipe bolted to a frame for forklift use -quite a neat idea I thought cheers Steveb

I agree with Mo , it's much easier to swap the front end over and manifolds to Def spec, it just makes it all std and easy and is not a big job . Make sure your next one is sealed and breather'd for deep water , your old one sounds like a bent con-rod from water in the intake... cheers Steveb

you will need some shim strips probably too , the factory ones are about 1mm thick and run the length of the furry channel in the door and are the width of the channel. It's worth getting the shimming right as the glass can jump out with too much room , specially with non-oe channel which seems pretty weak and easily deformed cheers Steveb

:hysterical: Nice one Si , the best way to put them off Steveb

Were you plugged into a long ext lead? as voltage drop can be significant with a welder cheers Steveb

...and a clean weld joint - rust and/or paint will make it a lot harder . I find turning the power and wire speed down and going slower makes it easier and if necessary weaving more to get the right size weld ..whatever you do overhead on vehicle's is always a pain , earplugs and lots of PPE and room to get out of the way of hot droplets should they happen cheers Steveb

Have you tried using a long screwdriver/piece of bar as a stethoscope on each part? that's an unusual noise for sure , have you had a look in the turbo inlet to check for scoring from the vanes touching the housing? cheers Steveb

....and rarely available in the home workshop if you get a sheet of A4 paper and wrap it tightly round the tube and line up the edge as it comes back on itself and continue until its all on then tape it the edge of the paper will be dead square to the tube A 4 1/2" with a thin slit disc will be much easier to steer too hth Steveb

A scissor jack between the transferbox and the next x-member should allow you to shift it with the rear mounts loosened cheers Steveb

they are not held by the other pair at 90deg , there should be a small amount of end float in each bearing axis to allow grease out of the x-drilling and into the needle rollers. When I fit uj's I always settle the cups out to the circlip on each bearing using a hide hammer with the opposite axis resting on the vice jaws. .....I guess you just have to decide if its too much end float cheers Steveb

Well glad to hear you are home and recovering Nige , and lmao reading your account of the moral support from Steve, neighbours and Wifey ...so how is the tarmac? not a good time of the year to repair tarmac On a more serious note , it's so easy for something apparently safe to turn to a kak kak moment , just good to know there's no harm done cheers Steveb

There's just something about it that's not quite right ......can't put my finger on it , but it doesn't quite work........ cheers Steveb