steve b

......yeah I suspected so Don't you have anything to make it at work Ross ? even if you couldn't bend it flat sections welded together well would look fine . The main curve could be in 8mm and then 5 or 6mm for the side profiles for a bit of added finesse cheers Steveb

oops didn't notice that in that case spot on and decent price thanks Nigel , hopefully no-one noticed that Steveb

£118 for the GL pan and it's not welded up ?? any decent fab shop could plasma the blanks and form that up in a press brake for half that amount ......and just how does the gigglepin one " improve gear meshing " ???? hohum cheers Steveb

It won't dilute but it may get to the filter/water trap , the only way to get it out would be take the tank out and roll it around upside down and out the filler neck . A litre of petrol to wash the inside as you roll it wouldn't hurt either . Or just keep changing the filter regularly for a while until you are happy to go back to normal service intervals good you got it sorted cheers Steveb

Yep , EXC1 & 2 , no bridges or footy stadia Interestingly , the boss spoke to building control at our local planning authority last week and they had no knowledge of EN1090 and CE marking of building steels........... it does make you think why bother ? but we are and it seems we are one of the only steel working companies in this area doing it . cheers Steveb

We're using LloydsRegister QA Gary , not cheap but the guy we have is quite sensible about things ....to a point , he is an auditor . At £500 a day I could put up with tedious .... cheers Steveb

2nd stage next week , hardness tests then DT for approval , it will be interesting to see the results I must admit just to confirm I know what I'm doing ha ha It's the admin that's going to cost forever ....... cheers Steveb

.........I don't have a big enough baseball bat ....and anyway which bit would you start with ? We are now spending thousands at work to be able to carry on making building steels in the same way we always have after july 1st thanks to EN1090 being made regulatory . Mmm conformance and monitoring ..but not coding ???? cheers Steveb

1 check the cap/tank breather - drive until it dies away and stop and remove the cap . any hissing/suction means blockrd breather 2 change fuel filter 3 then start looking for rubber connections/collapsing fuel lines my 2p is on the fuel filter , I have found my local tesc*s to be less than clean on the diesel pumps.... cheers Steveb

I would say so but you need to talk to them about it and what you have done already . let us know how it goes cheers Steveb

Find a diesel inj specialist who can check pressure loss on the fuel rail drilling in the head , it'll mean disconnecting the fuel line in and out and connecting a test rig to either end and pressurizing to operating pressure - 300 bar ? iirc so must be done with the proper stuff. Given the symptoms and what you have already checked , it will almost certainly be this as I said in your other post . Bad luck as it is by no means a fault that will happen to every TD5 . There are thousands of hi-miler TD5's working perfectly well out there . cheers Steveb

It certainly looks like it , if someone can confirm it ? cheers Steveb

Dirtydiesel on here used to have a few 300 Tdi engines in bits , I have one which I would need to check before saying it's a good 'un ? But I'm nowhere near you so would need to go on a carrier Cheers Steveb

If it's D3 I have a mate who is looking for one cheers Steveb

Pretty sure its 1/8" bsp thread Carlos cheers Steveb

That's not the one I had in mind , deep bronze green iirc , and a front grille/rad surround like a Bentley Blower Steveb

I thought I'd saved it , but haven't , Bill the one you are thinking of had cycle mudguards on the front and a bonnet just over the engine? with louvres in the sides ? can't remember what thread it appeared in but def been on here cheers Steveb

Yep , your first post is correct , open holes in the 5 weld nuts on the return at the top . Its simply a matter of fitting a fibre washer under each screw ..........but ffs why not put the correct inserts in OR supply the washers as part of the tank kit , it's a small but bloody stupid failure to conform , Even a damn sticker to say use washers {rant over} Steveb

... a probe - oooer - in the spark plug hole ? a good friend of mine took an Ami 8 and removed the body , banded the front wheels 8" and fitted 10.50 - 15's and made it 2 seater one behind the other back in the 80's and even as a 2wd it floated over rough or boggy terrain better than a swb series we christened it the mud skipper , it did need some mud guards but full waterproofs and goggles worked ok . he even fabbed a scoop to draw the air for cooling from behind the engine at the top to help when splashing I also saw a 2cv racing at Peters pit AWDC comp safari back then and it did itself proud , not last by any means cheers Steveb

Is your steering box in the centre at straight ahead ? And check the wheels/tyres again for balance and run-out , some of the pot holes around here could be more correctly called bomb craters . I'm glad I have 1 tonne/fc steels . Tyres do deform too so a high spot could well be the problem cheers Steveb posted while I was chugging around the keyboard , I'd pull another thin shim or two from the king pins and maybe try another damper , new stuff does sometimes fail

That is indeed an optical trigger Lumenition set up . It mounts to the std points base and plugs into a small amplifier that hooks up to the std coil terminals . Just stick some points and condenser in to get 'er up and running . The main issue with the points set up is the plastic "nut plate" under the baseplate that the gap adjuster screw fits into becomes loose on the thread and the moves while its running cheers Steveb

It's usually retarded injector pump timing due to wear in the skew gear driving it off the cam . There are slots at the pump mount bolts and iirc the FIP needs turning clockwise from above . Loosen the inj pipes first , and move it a bit , re tighten the bolts and pipes and start . Enough is when you have an audble low diesel knock and no , or little blue smoke on acceleration , and maybe a small amount of black smoke You will notice the difference on the road too cheers Steveb

I agree , it's not just voids , but with that poor level of cast there's every chance of inclusions and chilled (brittle) CI . I'd be inclined to measure it all and draw it up then send the parts back for a full refund - postage as well and find a foundry to cast your own and machine up . I'm sure you could do a better job for yourself Soren cheers Steveb edit to add I've assumed that it is CI and not steel , if that is cast steel then that makes the quality even more dubious

That sounds right Ben The ring that goes directly under the bolts is to spread the load to avoid any stress raisers around the bolt head . Check the flex plate carefully for any signs of cracking before it goes in . cheers Steveb

they don't last forever and a bloody pain , big job for a tenner of gasket ,if I do a rear main I do this as well Oil leaks are my major OCD prob , makes me wonder why I gravitated to LR's sometimes ha ha cheers Steveb