PaulMc

Hmmm....

You saw it here - Pic of LR bottle jack mounting? Paul.

I'm selling a full set of 20 Zeus Engineering Extended Wheel Studs on eBay at the moment - Zeus Extended Wheel Studs - Wolf Wheels - Full Set 20 Paul.

Most of it is still available (see attachments from Feb.2008 Microcat), but I don't think you'll be worrying a dealer with an order anytime soon Paul.

Jamie, My mate and I both bought a Mantec wheelcarrier for our (pre-2002) 110s at the LRO Show at Peterboghorror in 2002. We had a fitting session round at his garage a couple of weeks later and they were a piece-of-p155 to fit. The instructions were easy enough to follow and 6 years later neither of them are showing any wear or corrosion. We did have to make up some flat spacer plates so that we could re-fit our Military Bumperettes over the lower mounting bracket, but we had already suss'ed that out before we bought them and made sure we had some steel flat of the right thickness and width. We had looked at the Bearmach carrier, and it does look to be of reasonable quality, BUT - neither of us liked the way the wheel ended up too far over to the right of the vehicle. The Bearmach lower mount uses the tub mounting tab holes on the crossmember (in the middle of the Bumperettes), the Mantec lower mount uses the inner 2 holes for the R/H Grab Handle and the upper R/H hole for the Military Bumperettes, pics show it clearer - Bearmach My Mantec one As you can see from the pics, both types will interfere with fitting a row of NAS lights at the bottom, the Bearmach one less so. However, the picture you've posted of the Mantec Carrier, isn't the latest type. ozzie1989 posted up pictures of his Mantec install, here - Mantec Swing Away Wheel Carrier with NAS Rear Bumper and this is what the lower mounting looks like - plenty of room for NAS lights, but harder to fit Bumperettes. Paul.

Tony, Thanks for that, I think I'll be giving Mr Paddock a call Cheers, Paul.

That's well under half the price most Britpart resellers charge and a hell of a lot cheaper than LR Genuine Parts. What's the quality like? - Britpart or OK? Paul.

Are they the Britpart FRC7577? How much are they charging for each stud? Paul.

Graham, I dont think that would be suitable, it is described as - 12 way fuse block Consists of two separate banks of 6 fuses with screw connections. Each bank has a common feed for main (+ve) connection. A common negative bus provides 12 screw connections for negative connections. Main connections by 5mm studs. It would be ideal for feeding auxiliary circuits from a 2nd battery, but not to replace the main fuse box. In the Defender fuse box, each circuit is individually fused, not commoned. In the second link in my post 'Turbocharger' has used 2 x VWP FBB8U You could also use the genuine blade fuse boxes from Land Rover, which are quite cheap, but that would mean changing the metal panel for the later type and the genuine terminals from Land Rover are silly-money. Paul.

These threads contain some useful info on changing glass fuses to blade fuses - Replacing fuse box??? Converting glass fuses to blade fuses, Not exactly a ground-up build ex military 90 wiring Paul.

The Oil Filter is definately correct. Fram PH5443 is equivalent to Land Rover ERR3340 I don't know about the other Fram filters you have. Paul.

Are any of these Bearmach Distributors nearer to you than Simmonites? They should either stock them or be able to get them for you, see items 18, pages 9 & 10 here - Defender_fastparts_A4_lo.pdf Paul.

Also posted here (the Search Engine is your friend ) - ex military 90 wiring Paul.

Here's the Wiring Diagram and Key from the AESP Handbook - (the first pic is the front cover of the handbook) Paul.

Take it somewhere else for it's MOT. The GVW of a standard 110 is 3050kg, so strictly speaking it is class 7. However, my 1989 110 Hardtop has always been tested as class 4. The place that I have it MOT'd is capable of testing up to class 7 and once, while I was waiting, I was reading their poster on vehicle classes, I noticed the weights and asked the tester if he was testing it in the right class, he said that they always tested 110s as class 4, the only Land Rovers they tested as class 7 were 130s. Paul

I knew I should have photo-shop'ed it out of the picture Some time ago, someone wanted to know what NRC9011 looked like, and on top of my wing was a convenient place to take some pictures of it. These are the only close-up pictures I have that show how I've rivetted my chequerplate. Paul.

I've used closed-end (solid) normal domed-head Aluminium Rivets and counter-bored them into the 5-bar pattern with a 10mm 'Bullet' drill, like this - Black & Decker Piranha Hi-Tech Bullet Drill Bit For Metal 10mm x 133mm X51108 The end result looks like this - Paul.

Granted, if you're carrying spares, the trailer's axle is an excellent place to carry a spare diff. Although, I still wouldn't have half-shafts in the axle - I was thinking that the effort required to turn the diff. would add to the trailer's rolling resistance, increasing fuel consumption. It could also put wear on your spare crown wheel and pinion gears, but I suppose you could always fit free-wheeling hubs to the trailer That's what I was suggesting Yeah, the point of that puzzled me as well Paul.

Having half-shafts and a diff. in it would add a lot of weight and drag to the trailer. Use a 90/RR/Disco back axle without a diff. or half-shafts and plate over the diff. hole. If you use decent drive flanges and hub caps to seal the hubs/axle tube, these could be used as spares for the towing vehicle. Paul.

When I bought my 110 TD in 1989, power assisted steering was still an extra-cost option. It didn't become standard equipment until the 1990 Model Year. Paul.

I pinched 'em from VWP and eBay Paul.

The only Battery Switch they sell is this - Battery Isolation Switch It's only rated at 100A. This type of Battery Switch isn't really up to the current drawn by Land Rovers or Winches. These Durite ones that Vehicle Wiring Products sell - are both rated at 250A @ 24V, 2500A for 5 secs - which is more than man-enough. A cheaper version of the one with the removable key can be had on eBay - ** HEAVY DUTY BATTERY ISOLATOR SWITCH & METAL KEY** But personally, I'd stick with the Durite ones, they're a known and quality brand. Paul.

I'm guessing that the retards responsible for this catalogue of shoddy repairs aren't Land Rover Main Dealers or Independent Specialists? This looks like the handiwork of the knuckle-dragging half-wits found at the typical crash repair "specialists" favoured by insurance companies. Go back with your snagging list and demand that they all be rectified to your satisfaction, give them one chance only. Paul.

I spotted this on eBay this morning, too late for you Ralph, but it might be useful to someone else - WIRING LOOM~HARNESS~DEFENDER TD5~CLOCK~SPEEDO~GAUGES Only £12.00 + £2.95 p&p Don't all rush at once Paul.

Ralph, I'll stick it in the post, first thing on Monday. I'll leave about 6" of cable on the back of it - is that enough? Paul.