muddy

Splinters, some form of magnetic injury or tree stuck up his nose? Its 6 and two 3's really Jeff I prefer a mechanical one once fitted but they can be a ball ache to run the pipe work and you want a nice braided flexi really so you can actually move the dashboard to access the rest of the stuff in there without impending oily doom.

If you only need it to last a few years then I wouldn't spend much on fancy paints, A half decent zinc rich primer and some satin black will be ample. Perhaps go crazy and spray some old oil or Dynax S50 around if you so choose. I like Kramp Paint available from nearly all agricultural suppliers, it brushes on well straight from the tin, the primer dries quickly and the top coats are nice. you can also get a fast drying thinners if you are in a rush.

Second hand roll cabs or even new ones on offer make great sturdy drawers for underneath a bench. The yellow COSH cabinets come up second hand and ideal to have one for paint and one for cleaning products. If you can find some of the second hand metal office cupboards its amazing what a quick lick of paint does to the look, I have used linotex floor enamel from manor paint on my metal cupboards and racking, it goes on well with one coat and seems very robust, it was/is totally useless as a floor paint but is cheap, quick and easy for any indoor metal.

Looks like TD5 to me.

Always livens up a day in the workshop!

What sort of money are the new ones? I think I have two small compressors 'in stock' if you would consider a second hand and postage works out.

I would be tempted to make a ramp that slots on instead of the standard tailgate when you want it. That way it hinges already, is easy to store and won't fall off when you are using it. All in all its probably simpler to put the bike on a small trailer and keep all your 'stuff' in the 110.

If you are having to push the hitch down onto the ball you have the ball set too low for sufficient nose weight. A short (12/14') tri axle will always bully the tow car unless the tow car is LWB and or heavy in my experience, Unless you have stupidly heavy springs more often than not 90's need to look 'sat on their arse' to tow nicely with more adventurous loads I think.

Elring Dirko is a nice RTV.

A blob of weld and a file would probably solve the issue but really new calipers are not fantastically dear for the peace of mind of being able to not hit whatever is in front of you.

I cannot agree more with these sentiments, the valley I am in was a hotbed of engineering and textile industry you could get pretty much anything made 20 years ago and now its mostly gone, we still have a foundry that will do custom stuff and a gear cutters but the lead times are often in years rather than days/weeks. A good friend has a one off engineering/sheet metal workshop and he is now running a 6 month lead time as the other old school places fall by the wayside.

I would probably make the bracket out of some 8mm and then make a saddle about 3" across that clamps around the upright with 4 M8 bolts. Similar to the half clamps you see on bolt together roll cages from safety devices.

Why not fit the soft top truck cab and then make a decent bracket that either clamps around or welds to the rear hoop upright and pokes through the corner of the soft top inside the hood stick for the top seatbelt anchor point.

Don't forget to fill it with vaseline before you plug it back on.

These are what a Boughton 6x6 unit looks like if that's any help. If it's from the LR stable and its not LT230 it really can only be LT95?

I would try NFU they are normally very helpful/accomodating even if they cannot offer cover or are too dear. Why can't you just insure it normally? I can't imagine many people ring the insurance company when they have the builders round until the job is done and signed off by the building inspector if at all.

Stick a piece of sellotape over the front to quieten it. Putting a buzzer on the oil light circuit is one of my favourite mods.

Absolutely, not suggesting the auto box is the reason why it’s boosting all the time I completely agree that the vnt is doing that it’s just the constant dragging disappointment from the auto will be forever holding it in a state of hard work so the load rarely if ever diminishes like it would with a manual when you are revving away in what has then become too low a gear. Yes generators/industrial set up are pretty dire on the road, my 300 had a generator fuel pin in it, making it behave like a fat kid in a sweet shop when it came to dropping fuel in but it picked up very well for trialing.

Yes, I think 🙄 What I am trying to say is that because the turbo is making boost all the time surely the boost control in the pump is going to be constantly trying to deliver the increased fueling?

To me it sounds like the VNT coupled with the auto is keeping the VE on boost demand all the time even when cruising. As a 'power' test I would expect you to be able to sit at 80 with that gearing. My old 300 auto disco circa 280k on 235/85 tyres would certainly sit at 75-85 and that only had a pump tickle, you just had to get the TC locked up and then steadily build the speed. My gut feeling would be to give it a service, make sure the valve clearances are spot on, check for dragging brakes, bearings etc and then fit a 'cone' filter pretty much directly to the turbo so you know there is no intake restriction. Are you measuring EGT pre turbo? are you measuring boost at the intake manifold? I would 'tune' to around 800 degrees c EGT under sustained heavy load and approximately 1.5 bar of boost at the inlet manifold with a smoke haze. once there you could try advancing or retarding the timing until you get the best performace and then dial back the fuel for safer EGT and hopefully better MPG. Im not saying any of that is right or proper that is just what I would do. My 300 manual 90 ran 1.5 bar of boost (probably a little too much for turbo efficiency) and would hit 1000c EGT if you felt like working it hard, yes it smoked but it went pretty well, sit at 70 with an empty 16' Ifor and would do about 90 before you felt like the throttle was just a noise switch.

They would look cool dimple died!

An old hub with abit of inch plate welded to the back is handy to bolt into the centre and hit with the sledge.

Ed's mate CLH offer a 20x8 with twist locks that would be a good multipurpose or there are more skelly style older ones coming up on marketplace readily away. IMHO the CT177 is not strong enough without adequate bearers to spread the weight, the side rails and punched floor can be easily bent with machinery/industrial loads. The same can be said for the TB range, if you put something like a roller or tractor implement on you start bending the floor/sides up when strapping down if your not careful. I'm sure I have put this on before but a long time ago I moved a railway carriage body that had been used as a stable for ~50 years. We cut 6x6" posts to the right size to jam into the inside and strapped it all together with ratchet straps before using hi-lifts to rear one end up and winch it onto telegraph poles on the trailer with block and tackle shackled to the rear crossmember. This was all in a small croft in Redmire so access was limited to say to least, we had to have it higher on the trailer using the hil-lifts inside on the afore mentioned 6x6 beams this time to pass over a wall on the way out before lowering it back down.. It was a steady 20 mile journey back through mainly single track roads in low box. Anything can be done with enough care and thought but sometimes often you have to weigh up whether it is really worth it.

We have moved a 20' on a 16' for but it certainly wasn't ideal, you could get away with an 18' but obviously a 20' would be better. Sit it on the bed and use a hi-lift or two to raise it up to put your beams/logs/poles under afterwards. you can also buy a purpose made 20' container transport trailer that is 3500kg gross. It is far easier to use a good lorry man with hiab however especially if you are getting more than one, we recently had two delivered and they were in perfect place within 30 mins of turning up.

They sound about right to me, try extend and compress them quite quickly mimicking the suspension as you would be driving and I think you'll struggle! don't forget when on the car you are compressing the spring aswell as the damper.