Les Brock

Would now be a good point to mention the Die-sels run cool anyway

Well my build has been carried out entirely in a single concrete section-o-lised Garage (is that a proper word ) I get well jealous of these huuuuuuuuuge garages and space some people have But.......At least its not outside and I can leave the tools out when I've had enough, to come back another day Regards Les

http://www.discovery2.co.uk/Autobox_Oil.html Here you go.....

Now that's a road trip.... I was meaning to ask how you fitted the Maggi RTT to the SD Cage before the trialer came along ?

Oh dear.....

I've just left all mine in place ready for a TD5 when to 200Tdi goes pop for the last time Will most likely just get the appropriate male/female plugs and fit blanking plugs in the terminal holes

Yes - pics of mine fitted more in my build linky below !

I looked into doing this on mine, unfortunatly the rear stays for the cage would stop them fitting. so they are where they are, in fitting though they have had a liberal spray of silicoln grease in both male and female connectors, inside the lamp holder itself and on both sides on the foam gasket on the lamp holder to lense We will see if that works

On a similar theme...... Can any one confirm on later contoller - The Cable inner has a ring crimped on the heater end as opposed to a bare cable and how the flipp is this is supposed to fit Obviously the earlier one you just pinch the cable inner after you have passed it through the little hole in the trunion, is there a special connecton for the TD 5 heater/cable ? Sorry for the hyjack...

We use a Hex one at work for up to 400mm cables with no problems

£50 Bulkhead off Ebay for me, welded it up and Galving cost £60

Happy Crimble everyone, and here's to a Happy New Year (and one where I hopefully finish my build !!)

I used a Carling switch on mine, on (Heat 1) Off on (heat 2)

Thats what I did

Some pics in my build of me using Richards Chassis brackets albiet in a 90 not a barge , but priciple cant be too different

New Aviitar for Nige

A bit of pipe lagging............. Slit and pushed over the door handle should help stop the push button freezing

I did the ealier SVA, I was asked to provided proof in the form of reciepts for all the major components along with serial numbers: Chassis Engine Gearbox Transfer box Axles HTH

Mike, Thanks for that, I have mainly ratchet crimpers, but then I use them lots for work so its worth spending the cash. Paul, I have a set of those its for the next cables sizes up I'm struggling to find one for. One option is to fold the tabs over and use a 10/16mm ring terminal crimper to form the indent but that would be localised and not the whole length of the crimp, being in my day job having seen the result of poor crimps and the damage it can cause, im a bit @nal over things like that, so its the right tool for the job !! Could try one and even add some solder into the equasion to see what the result is Regards Les

Hi Jon, Thats a "normal" crimper ,well for us anyway, ours go up to 400mm cable size . Its the automotive roll over style im after Thanks for the reply tho !

Chaps, What is the correct crimper for 9.3mm un-unsulated spade terminals I cant flippin find one !!! Please note - Hammer and blunt screwdriver/ or pliers is not the right answer Getting it through work any linkys to one greatfully recieved

Is that not what we do once we have bought them ????

Holy switch-a-rama Batman, I now know I'm cured and normal life can resume at last

No one else has a roll cage like this..... I can see why

Worth fitting relays ?? though I would look up the Voltage effect on lamp output........... 10.5V : 510 lumens 11.0V : 597 lumens 11.5V : 695 lumens 12.0V : 803 lumens 12.5V : 923 lumens 12.8V : 1000 lumens ←Rated output voltage 13.0V : 1054 lumens 13.5V : 1198 lumens 14.0V : 1356 lumens ←Rated life voltage 14.5V : 1528 lumens Full article here http://www.danielste...ays/relays.html as well as drawing for the non "leccy's"