Les Brock

Its also worth having a look a WAZE on your phone

I had a look-see locally but all gone, be good to see what I've missed out on

I shall be along selling a few bits - yes I am still alive 🤣

B curve are generally domestic type, C & D cater for a greater current in-rush on start up for motors, inverters, transformers etc, D taking the highest, the downside is they have a lower maximum earth loop impedance value (Zs) to meet the disconnection time within the requirements of the Regulations unless they are RCD/RCBO protected which is 1667 Ohms for a 30mA

Hypothetical interest here as well ...

When the torque converter has fully located onto the pump it is essential to then measure the distance from the bellhousing front face to the torque converter feet ( also known as the flange that the flexplate is bolted to). This may help IIRC https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ygYQpd29ipY Its been a long while since I did mine so hopefully correct

Ralph, Where is the thread re: the bilge pump boost, looked but cant find it, search not working correctly on works PC for some reason Many thanks

Is he out yet ???...............

Mann and Humell - Pro-vent would be my choice for crankcase

D2 - IMHO but trying to find one that's not rotten is going to be the challenge

Rad in standard position, might give Steve Parkers a call Monday anyway to see what they do

Mine seems to want to be half way between both lengths ! 300Tdi one is about 2 inches short

Cheers chaps, Mine is sat in the 300Tdi position so sat forward of the normal defender 200tdi position I don't think that is helping things for one min!

Top one is what I think is right one but it just kinks or twists, bottom is the 300Tdi one which is to short, might just have to get another and try it, where yours goes in with the front return pipe pointing towards the front , mine will only go vertical with a kink, or slightly rearwards where it kinks "and" twists Cant believe mine is that different if that fails custom one it is ..............

Excuse messy bench

Will get some

Hi Ralph, Many thanks, mine is the later one with the O-ring seal, I have the ESR1912 IRC but its all the wrong angle or to short or something to sweep round correctly, no matter how it goes in it kinks the pipe or twists or its a real rubbish one

Hi all, Had a seep on the bottom oil cooler pipe, and never 100% happy with pipe route anyway with a "make-do" pipe, so checked and ordered the PBP500200 pipe which is supposed to do the 200 and 300Tdi if I've read it right but its to short by about 6 inches Looked everywhere and cant find a longer one or a part number without having to get one made if possible Any ideas ??

I went to Pirtek to get some made up. they used the ends and then flexi pipe

Cheers Ralph, I thought as much, it was more on the off change someone had a beat up heater with one spare TBH, but thanks for looking

Hi All, Any one know if you can get these levers seperate ?, refurbing the heater and one snapped , or any one have a naffed heater with one on they can spare please Cheers

It Does indeed have bolt through...^^^^^^^^

Must admit If I was buying Ashcroft CV's and you knowing what the Raptor stuff is like, I'd be bunging some cheap CV's in and saving for Ashcroft shafts - as above if the go, they are going to chew everything up, and it will find the weak link !

As above magnet in through the slave hole ( Hmm ..........that just dont sound right )