Maverik

So I'm looking for a sense check, can someone confirm what they think the "Theft Alarm unit" is doing in the scenario that the "Alarm sounder" is active...

The 10as (2 button) alarm systems have multiple immobiliser elements, the bypass plug sorts out the main bits, you should not have an issue starting it.

Regarding engine start and immobiliser. If its 100% factory alarm and immobiliser, then as long you have the key fob, to lock/unlock, then this is what will turn off the immobiliser part.

Scale model of a ship a was drawing from some 2d autcad drawings

yeah you can do what you said, you just need to manage the "grouping" of components - I wouldn't write it off. Happy to give some direction if you wanted. A quick snap shot of some roll cage brackets I was toying with.

Ouch - got to say I'm quite a fan of Sketch-up, used it from pretty much its original release, less so now due to the fee involved, but its a pretty powerful piece of software. Not quite in the same league as actual Autodesk products. - not sure what you mean by parametric but as far as I'm concerned sketchup is parametric - i.e. uses measures, scales and standard dimensions etc? Dont worry I'm not offended 😜

A tad more progress, so found another wire snipped going to an earth from the starter relay rejoined and got the starter immobiliser back working. Also found an issue with the BBS battery back up Siren... the Siren only turns off when the alarm in activated amd the hazards are flashing... there's a wire crossed somewhere... literally.

Good question, yeah I checked them via the multifunction unit and when I managed to get it to go I to diagnostic mode you can open each door individually and the lights flash once each time. The LED looks to be fubar as it won't test at all, don't have any to hand to substitute so just ordered a handful. I'm missing something just not quite worked it out yet, the horn element.

So few steps sort of forward and maybe a few back - I tried plugging a nanocom into the OBD II port and the nanocom didn't light up at all, which suggests its either wired differently to a Defender or I've still got some wiring issues that need followed up. I have however pulled the instrument cluster off and tested the alarm LED and the LED doesn't seem to be working testing it on my multimeter, so this is my next mission to replace/fix. Slowly getting my head around the electrical repair manual I'm going to start poking about some connectors to see if I've got voltage where I should.

Blimey - have you seen the re-sale value of these jacks... 😲

So I got the 10as to go into the simple diagnostic mode by going through the bonnet switch ignition door on off routine which is progress. I'll start to do some circuit line testing I think to try figure out if there's any line breaks.

hmm on reading I need to look at the horn issue too, as there should be something coming from that.

Legend! - I've been working off the 95 manual which I think is still referring to the single button keyfob type.

So my new wee project car - 1997 Discovery 1 basic spec. I'm tying to piece together the original alarm/immobiliser system. Apparently from previous owner. It didn't have a fob so it was always used on the door key - the back up battery siren started smoking so it was removed by an "auto electrician", the stop solenoid immobiliser was removed and a cable was used to jump from the ignition to the solenoid directly. So, when I got it, every time you opened a door etc. all you would get was a clicking from the passenger footwell. What I have done. Sourced a 2nd hand 10as unit with 1 fob still programmed to it, I pulled the battery off, and swapped the new (with fob) D1 10as unit in, there was also 2 relays missing from the passenger side footwell, which I replaced. I also sourced a new injection pump solenoid immobiliser unit which I've installed. So I've not got central locking working off the fob, and I get 3 flashes from the lights to say the alarm is armed. - the volumetric sensors inside are also working as is all the door switches. so if you set the alarm off you get all the indicators start to flash. I do not however have the small LED located in the dashboard lighting up or even flashing at all. - the stop solenoid immobiliser unit also doesn't ever cut off 12v unless the ignition is off. I also have a battery back up siren - as soon as I plug the siren in, it just sounds off continuously... and I thought the alarm was hooked up to the horns too? but I've not had any sound from them either. I've tried all sorts of tests plugging in and unplugging various items and I've no joy. Even if you're sat in the car and lock it, you turn the ignition on and you get a red flashing key sign, you still get 12v at the stop solenoid immobiliser and you can still start the engine. I've had a good look about to see if anything else has been tampered with but I'm gripping at straws. I've got a borrowed nanocom on its way to see if I can talk to the 10as unit. Anyone have any idea's?

Yup just looked at this myself. You can buy a replacement flange for about 40 squid on ebay. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/134091393545 Our you can get a whole chest cover from britpart which are made in Turkey, just installed one and quite happy with the quality of it. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/121392874956

That looks like it will fit with some small manipulation.

I believe there are two types of tensioner units, one early type - which is derived from the 200tdi and a later type. Early type used the long bolt and the stepped washer with the oval cut out - this was very similar to the Discovery 200tdi set-up - picture of tensioner here (this is also whats shown in a lot of the parts manuals) - Tensioner Part number ERR1972 (from some google searches this part number also appears to bring up the later slotted type too which is not helpful.) 300tdi timing belt tensioner - Bing images - notice there is just a hole in the middle of the wheel. LR then changed to the more commonly seen tensioner - where they effectively moved the clamping mechanism to be integral and to the rear of the tensioner unit. - this just needs a the short hex cap head bolt to work. - Tensioner Part number LHP100860 300tdi timing belt tensioner - Bing images 300tdi timing belt tensioner - Bing images Both tensioners are interchangeable with any 300tdi.

By the sound of it the Jaguar part is being torn apart too. Iconic British Land Rover brand to be dropped after 75 years as Jaguar goes all electric (bmmagazine.co.uk)

When I set up my rev Tacho I bought a cheap later rev measure from ebay, used it a number of times now and its a great bot of kit. Handheld Digital Laser Rev Counter DT2234C Meter Non Contact Optical Tachometer | eBay

I love how you can knock up a "quick" winch mount of that quality

quick update - I installed the lamps the other day, initially a little bit tricky to align as they are of the flat beam type, but i seem to have got them in the realms of sensibility - I will take to a garage to get there feedback at some point too. I used them for the first time in the dark last night and I've been pleasantly surprised with the general performance, great low beam and really nice high beam spread. The only real comparison point was that I was struggling to see the originally installed lamp pattern when passing other traffic, I found my lights where being totally overwhelmed to the point you had an instant as cars passed where you couldn't clearly see the road verge/edge. So with the new LED lamps I found they where much clearer when passing other cars and the previous blotting wasn't happening. The beam pattern cut off is pretty clean and all in all I think they perform pretty well - I also wasn't flashed by oncoming traffic in any instance (which would suggest oncoming traffic didn't feel blinded). One slight annoyance is that after 2 minutes of having them on, there's already condensation on the inside of the lamp.

Have a look for the diesel leak being the tank breather roll over 1 way valve... although never done one on a 90, I've done x3 on 110's.

Letter of conformity supplied by the seller.

ok point taken - but speculation of no real sound base (but I know it could be likely) having said that Truck-lite looks similar. - again lets not go down a rabbit warren of the legalities of these headlights.

Not an easy space to work, a tidy repair which will certainly extend the life of the chassis.