Simon_CSK

I have lived in Scotland all my life over 50 years and I refused to wear a kilt at both my weddings as I am not Scottish!

I only ever had problems with the ABS sensors. These can be checked with a multimeter.

I am in Coalhall and everyone round about knows my house Would you like me to have a look at it LOL

Filip I had the hole in the panel to allow me to change the o rings and did so before I found out that the matrix needed done. I was surprised how easy it was taking the dash out and wouldn't bother cutting a dash in future. The only issue with the dash removal is the time it takes but as my P38 is used so little it isn't really a problem. Filip I had the hole in the panel to allow me to change the o rings and did so before I found out that the matrix needed done. I was surprised how easy it was taking the dash out and wouldn't bother cutting a dash in future. The only issue with the dash removal is the time it takes but as my P38 is used so little it isn't really a problem.

The first question I would ask is what is the damage and where is it? Then how much height is above the floor to the roof members? Is the floor dry or damp? These questions would determine how much remedial work you need to do and what you can do. A good base is 150mm concrete with a 252 mesh through it to reinforse it If the existing base is breaking up then as Stephen says, it shouls prpbab;y come up or is it is just a small area break it out and bring back to level with fresh concrete. The spec I have given should span over small areas of damage but it is better to cut it out and repair. If the floor is damp it would be best to add a DPM If you cannot afford to loose the height then you do need to remove the old floor. If replacing the floor you need 150mm well compacted hardcore, 50mm sand visquwwn 1000g DPM and then 150mm concrete. I am an Architect and domestic Architecture is what I specialise in, this is general info so please feel free to ask specific questions.

Mike I took the dash out of mine last year and like you didn't seem to be a big issue just time consuming. I trick I used before refitting was to put some tape on the windscreen above the bolts for the rear fixings. It gives you an indication where the bolts should be rather than trying to fish in the dark. Would suggest you get a new dash from a breaker. I had one but unfortunately my spares vehicle decided that it wanted a barbeque.

Stephen That one occurred to me today after removing the fuel tank support on my 2008 Range Rover Sport and trying to compare what was left, not very much of it, to the fuel tank support from a 2006 Discovery 3.

You need a forensic archaeologist to assist with repairing the body work on your Land Rover.

when you have multiple projects when you are waiting for bits, solutions or inspiration and then buy more projects.

I had a similar problem however the car went into limp mode. When I got to the bottom of my problem I required a new throttle pedal. Really need to plug it into a computer to see what is going wrong.

I remember hearing about this story when it broke. Sad for the family but the CPS would really only go after easy cases. There are many things we don't know like what were all the defects and how they would have contributed to the accident. Eg if 20 bulbs are blown you have 20 defects non of which would likely have impacted on the wheel falling off. We also don't know the extent to which the vehicle had been modified, when it was done and how competent the conversion was. We are very lucky in that most of us know our vehicles inside out and know how best to keep them maintained even to a basic standard. We regularly discuss modifications and speciality builds and while I have never created and extreme Land Rover I have set a Discovery up for my own specific needs. I consider myself reasonably competent however I did make one mistake that I didn't consider properly (Front tow bar mounting) and while it did not affect the safety of the vehicle it did result in consequential damage to the chassis. My point is that even those of us who understand our vehicles can make mistakes which means that those with little or no experience in this should not be allowed heavily modified vehicles without some form of test.

Your showing your age with the chisels and experience with the saw. 😉

Or some good sharp chisels. (What we did in woodwork at school many many years ago. Ouch is that 40 years)

The hinges go on the left side in the photo so the the weight of the door is supported.

I have a Range Rover Sport and A Discovery 3 both with towbars that I want to remove. The sport has the standard removable one however I didn't get a key with it when I bought the car. I know I can get a new lock kit so is it a case of drilling the lock out or is there something else to do? The D3 has a Witter towbar which has no lock. There is a bolt on top wich I have removed thinking this would release the locking mechanism but no joy. Easy to remove the steady bars as they just bolt on the chassis

That is what I was hoping to hear. I think I broke the gearbox in my TDV8 and am looking at buying a D3 for spares to help fix my two D3's so it will be very helpful if it is the same gearbox.

Does any one know what auto gearbox is in the Range Rover 3.6 TDV8 and the Discovery 3?

Well to start the year I had a Mini Convertible, my CSK, my P38 and two Discovery TD5's I have sold the Mini, a TD5 a Range Rover L322 HSE and a RR L322 TDV8 and now am ending the year with my CSK, my P38, 2 D2's, 2 D3's, 2 Range Rover Sports and a Range Rover Vogue TDV8 so all in all quite a good year. Most of them are running and Mot'd so hopefully on that note I will be able to finish some of them off and reduce my collection Have a great New Year everyone.

I was looking after my baby so with a friend of mine when he got a phone call from his brother saying his car was broken down. Never thought anything of it and offered to help tow his Golf home about 25miles in an Old Range Rover classic with a Transit Di engine conversion. Anyway set off with my friend and little one and recovered him home as said I would. I did the usual warnings about keeping the rope taught and watch for my brake lights. Never felt him the whole way the tow was absolutely consistent. When we pulled up outside his house he had no brakes left neither the car brakes or the hand bake as he had kept them glued on the whole time. I have to say is was a perfect tow from my point of view because the rope never got slack however he would never ask me for a tow again and think he needed new underwear.

Jason I have a Blue 1999 V8 Auto which I have had since the start of lock down. Was meant to be a project and then work got very busy. It was a Cat S when I bought it but cannot find anything wrong with it. It has 92k on the clock and a very nice burble off the exhaust. If you are interested it will have a full years MOT on it. Chassis is good, no welding to date but will need two small holes no bigger than 1in diameter welded for this MOT.

Welcome to the forum. Can you post some pictures.

I have General Grabbers on my P38 and last year they would not get grip in the field to allow me to escape. The field falls 3m in 70 along one edge and 3m in 50 along another. so across the corner it is 6m down from the highest point. My L322 on road tyres and with Mud setting on would not move the car. The field was sodden. In the end after a week I put a winch on it and pulled it the 50m to the gate. I want to be able to come and go in the field in the winter so I can use my paddock but as things stand this will not happen.

Ed do you rate the Duratracs for off road use? They certainly appear to fit the bill.

My L322 of choice has 78k on it with upgraged led lights and a body kit. Looking at prices it is probably around the £9k mark which is more than I paid Now isn't the time to buy an L405 those cars are about to take a thumping and that will be the time to buy IMHO. but L322's will also take a hit so am thinking of offloading before they do.

I am thinking of selling my L322's now and buying a later one after the drop. The issue I have is the the one I want to keep currently has 78k on the clock. The downside is it isn't a 4.4TDV8