Turbocharger

This thread's a few days short of a year old but (with some external inspiration) I solved it today. We masked the hood into squares around the bolt holes, and applied a veneer of superglue to the canvas in four squares on each side, so any fraying around the bolts wouldn't propagate and rip across the whole roof: Then just drilled a small hole from the inside, enlarged them from the outside, and bolted the cage up. It'll probably leak in, but there's plenty of holes for it to leak out again... Very pleased to have the full protection of the cage back, those hood sticks are mighty spindly...

Wrong length dipstick?

The wing-side location is actually quite clever - so long as you enter water with a reasonable (sensible) bow-wave, the water level peaks just ahead of the front wheel and can actually sit lower than "ambient" at that point just ahead of the door hinge, before it settles to an average level behind the rear edge of the doors. It can't work miracles in fast-flowing water, but it's also quite possible to swap the bonnet and both wings briefly while keeping your dash (and even your feet) dry, so a snorkel is a good investment IMHO.

The wet D-lander is an excellent photo - looks like it's rising from the deep! Some nice use of long exposures too (and tiny apertures, or a filter?)

Slotted, welded, remanufactured - however your slotted swivels, fabricated radius arms or aftermarket window winders were created, if you fit them and their failure contributes to a fatality you will go to prison. That's why the big boys do a great deal of analysis and materials testing to make sure that their components won't fail, or to prove that a failure would be genuinely unexpected if it does occur. Hats off to Disty for looking at some reliability engineering, but you might eventually need to satisfy a jury that your testing was sufficient to show a failure would never occur in service. The issue here is usually in understanding the maximum loads that the item could see in service.

Nige - do it in transparent perspex and we can call you 'Dyson'

Nige - just tack something together. By the time you've finished it'll be a tow point from 12mm plate anyway, and the weight gain will absorb your 800bhp and I'll be able to chug round you in my little diesel Ninety... I expect the packaging context will dominate the argument anyway - no point having a perfect plenum and then six miles of trunking to get to the snorkel. Don't make it impossible to fabricate either...

When you put it that way.... :lol: As an aside, the tyres look slick but that's not necessarily a bad thing. When they're pressed on the floor, the mud doesn't know whether it's 'tread mud' or native mud, so you'll be getting the most traction that the tyres can offer in the gloopy stuff. I think I've have broken the winch out to avoid filling in the hole that you've presumably spent time digging out - but that's not such a good option if you don't have a winch, of course...

Don't mention the engine fault ("Really? I thought they all did that") and flog it - but not on here, you've told us what's wrong with it! :x

I expect there are other people who will bend up a cage for you for less money than SD anyway - have you tried any of the usual suspects? Protection & Performance, Tornado Motorsport etc.

Thanks for letting us know - and for your fine efforts to date in getting the forum on its feet and continuing to operate so ... solvently

Do you want to do any work beyond winding up the injector pump, or are you just asking a hypothetical question? If you're serious about making more power, you need to look at the rest of the engine first to make sure you won't be playing catch-the-piston. Sort the bearings, bores and rings to give yourself a solid base. Reliability is below the head gasket, performance is above it. Then look at how to get more air into the engine, because fuel's easy to match up to it. Taking the rough casting flash off the ports is a good start, match the manifolds to the heads to maximise the area and avoid a sudden step, get the Pintle injector nozzles. Tidy up the inlet system for a short, smooth pipe to cold air, and get the exhaust flowing as nicely as possible. An infra-red camera could help to show you any hot spots to direct your work. Maybe swing the timing a little or even up the compression ratio with a head skim, but it's getting more 'developmental' now. From there, you have to decide what you're aiming for. If you want a tidy 2.5NAD that pulls well, I reckon that's about it. Going from 'developmental' to 'mental', you could supercharge it, add LPG, nitrous, water injection or the obvious route - a turbo - but you're back to needing a stronger bottom end to handle it all. The 19J engine taught us that much!

Drop the rear prop off and go for a drive in difflock to see if the noise is gone/quieter. Definitely sounds like something rotating if you're getting noise and vibration. If I had to bet, I'd put 10p each way on a diff bearing or wheel bearing.

Norfolk's a long way for me, but obviously that makes it nearer for other people. The scenery can't be as good anywhere that "higher ground" refers to the tops of roundabouts though... I'd happily revisit our trip to Rhayader at Wyeside (Paul's link above). There's room for a good group and we only covered half of what we hoped in two days, so there's plenty left. October would coincide with the open dates for the Gap too, unless Paul knows something I don't?

I ran Lucas Pintle (ex-Peugeot XUD9) injectors in place of the standard Pintaux injectors in my 2.25D - they don't have an auxiliary spray hole pointing at the heater plug. The penalty is poorer cold starting, but with smoothed ports, a 2.5NAD cam and the injection timing advanced until it rattled like there was a small construction project going on inside it would outrun a standard 2.5NAD Ninety. For context, we're not talking Testarossa vs 911RS3 territory, but I learned plenty from it!

It may have taken nearly two months of intensive research, but in the end I went for two Ernst racks and a set of crocodile teeth too The Ernst racks are excellent - they actually take more room in the drawer now but I can see what's missing and it appeals to my OCD nature. The crocodile teeth, on the other hand, are too tall for the drawer with my screwdrivers and punches on them, the teeth face different directions and the whole shebang falls over when they go back in the drawer. They might work with spanners but for other tools I'm not so impressed. Anyone want to take them off my hands for a fiver? Drop me a PM.

Mr Ashcroft speaks the truth ref different gear widths - this shows the different splines on the spud shaft to fit the cross-drilled gear too. Anyone want to buy an extra-strong 1.6:1 t-box? Would suit revvy engine, gwo

I'm not using new bearings, but the formula in the manual suggests there should be endfloat rather than preload. Since there's no noise, shunt or adverse effects I'm tempted to leave it with more movement than recommended. I'm certainly not taking it all apart again!

A lot of buses have a ducted clean-air supply to the alternator, due to high engine bay temps I guess.

... aaaand it's back on the road. Thanks to Ashcrofts for the bit (though it would have been helpful to put my name on the label, it got lost in Stores at work for a while ) and I've reassembled it. The gearing's a bit tall (2200rpm at 70mph) but that's just an excuse to squeeze more out of the VGT. The input gear endfloat is circa 0.5mm - too much, though there's no nasty noises or excessive shunt. Does anyone know what the movement should be? The manual talks about 0.05mm "pre load", which is negative endfloat in my mind??

I believe you can also get 50mm towballs in 45mm, 55mm etc - might be enough to distract, confuse or delay them enough to put them off.

Looks like it might be a bit too strong, and there's some strength / weight that could be taken out?

Dave - how much more scale do you need? The lawn is about 4" long because he's been in the garage rather than out mowing... Bish - Looks fantastic, like a spatial awareness challenge! I know there's a temptation to triangulate everything and add weight, but the four parallel bars at floor level are crying out for an X-brace? But then, how much force is it going to see, really?

Except for road noise, surely? In the Top Trumps world of tyre choice, every tyre scores differently in each category.

Cheapest and lightest would be polystyrene, but I doubt that's what you're looking for. From the question, it sounds like you're planning an Oceans Eleven bankjob! Seriously, I'd look again at plywood, there's a reason everyone else uses it.