JimAttrill

You used to get plastic plugs to bang into the rivets. First a punch is used to push the mandrel out and then the plugs are hammered in. Though I must admit I last used them as an apprentice vehicle bodybuilder in 1966

Nice alloys! I can't help suggesting that you beg or borrow a Snap-on or Sykes-Pickavant diesel timing kit which enables you to check the timing of the engine using a standard stroboscope. If you look carefully at the timing cover you will find there is actually an arrow on it, and the pulley has a little cut in it, rather like a hacksaw cut. You mark both of these with Tipp-ex or white paint, fit the timing gear and off you go! No trial-and-error stuff at all.

This is why you can often fix a sensor problem with a 'technical tap' with a hammer. Sometimes removing the o-ring helps as well.

Well, I did replace the 'a' with an '@'

You could have an air leak at the filter. Maybe you should get it on a pooter but that doesn't really help for intermittent problems which can be a person I'm not that keen on to find and fix. Try changing the injector copper washers - that has fixed a few misfires and such that I remember. The job is a pain though. ps I didn't write 'a person I'm not that keen on' at all

and if they don't work you get the 'three amigos' I'd love to know who thought up that apposite name.

I can say that the R380 reverse is a bit high. I often use low-range to reverse out of steep driveways.

Sounds like the release bearing. It's not worth doing anything about it until the clutch needs to be changed (unless you have lots of money). BUT the release bearing cannot make noises with the clutch out (released). So I am beginning to suspect main gearbox bearings - does the noise occur in 4th AND 5th?

Same as the original I would guess. But I don't think the soft silicone pipe is suitable. The original is hard plastic. I would try to get something of the same strength and heat resistance.

We thought of maybe bypassing the thingy somehow. (But never got around to it) Often the leaking ones have a pinhole leak and can be welded.

ABS and traction control wheel speed.

They're not very accurate. No, let's rephrase that. They are inaccurate. I can do quite well by 'feel' thank you.

The left-hand drill often gets studs out as the drill creates heat which helps. For the rest, the best way seems to be to use a MIG welder to attach a bolt. This heats up the stud and the bolt can then be screwed out complete with stud. Stud extractors are mostly more trouble than they are worth as when they break (when, not if) you are in real trouble. It does help to get the manifold refaced as they warp which breaks the studs. Another trick is to use Wurth studs which are in their catalogue as Mercededes-Benz studs. They are exactly the same size as the TD5 studs but are much stronger and don't break.

My Defender was made/assembled in South Africa by AAD (before LR took over and imported all parts). Some parts are different, like the chassis is galvanized and the sound proofing is much better. It also came with a VDO rev-counter which is a waste of time on a 300Tdi. But the best improvement was the rear seat which has the backrest at an angle and quite a bit further back than the UK versions here since 1996. The difference is noticeable if you look in the back window you can see the whole backrest whereas in the UK version the backrest is not visible. There are two plates to move the locking catches further back.

The 300Tdi manual gives torque figures for a new and an old belt. 15Nm for a new belt IIRC. But most torque wrenches don't read that low and are of the break type. So I just tighten it by 'feel'. Have done loads now (my own 4 times) and all seems ok. I have seen belts in for a change that seemed dangerously loose, but they don't seem to fall off easily. If the belt jumps a crank tooth the engine won't start.

I believe the injectors ECU and fuel pump use about 20A. Unlike the Tdi which uses 0A

I have a coolant level switch mounted in the overflow tank coupled to a buzzer. Very simple. They now make fancy boxes that measure just about anything you want if you have the sensors fitted for oil pressure, boost pressure etc. These use two stainless self-tapping screws at the correct level in the tank about an inch apart. It's rather like my VDO mechanical boost gauge which is coupled to the Tdi pressure line from the turbo to the pump. Again simple, especially as a boost sensor costs a fortune. (again from VDO). In the garage we once fitted a VDO sensor and gauge to a Defender Tdi. The owner came back a week later and insisted we refit the LR gauge which is about as much use as a smiley face He didn't like the way the temp went up on uphills and down on downhills.

Electric fans are carp. Stick to the standard LR vicious fan

As yet....

and if you are going to tweak your turbo it pays you to have an EGT gauge - the most useful extra for a Tdi. Here is my thermocouple and computer 'furnace controller' which enables me to have an alarm:

There is a good writeup on doing this in the technical archive forum

here you are

Don't believe what the garage says (I know I work in one )

Like a lot of Seffricans (though also a Brit) I whack a bit of two-stroke oil into the tank on every fillup. I reckon I add about 250ml:100l which is 400:1 which is pretty low. But the engine (at 306 000 kms) does seem to start well and run smoothly at idle. We also have (sometimes) the choice between cheepo 500 parts per million sulphur and expensive 50 parts per million sulphur diesel. I reckon the high-sulphur is better for the 300Tdi. Your UK diesel is almost sulphur-free, is it not? If you want to read about the two-stroke oil business, the VW Tdi websites are full of info. Personally I cannot see the 2T oil causing any problems because it is formulated to mix easily and to burn with no ash residue.

Ok, maybe it's the Defender gauge that is useless - it reads 'in the middle' from 50°C to 110°C. I have a VDO sender and gauge that takes 15km to get to the middle and moves all the time but apparently some people don't like that so LR deliberately specify their gauges to not tell you anything much. By the time the gauge starts reading high the engine is cooked. Interesting thing is that the Disco TD5 gauge is made by VDO!