HPLP

Youre a star Ralph. H

Mine looks like it needs this done too...... Does anyone know the part number for the 2 o-rings??? H

Ahhh if it was next week I could probabily come.... H

Land Rover Ireland wouldnt know what it was! As someone said cheap advertising as it went truely viral. Great approach though. H

First thing Id look at is tyre pressure. You're running big tyres in a soft top. Try running the vehicle at maybe as low as 25 and see what its like then. Changing the pressure is cheap compared to throwing parts at it.....

Thanks mate, I was having a blonde moment deciphering which was the isolation switch and how to deactivate it. I managed in the end. Thanks for replying anyway. H

Hello, I am trying to use a 300tdi rear window switch to bypass a bcu problem in my td5 discovery. Does anyone have a source for the wiring colours from the switch origionally? I have a mac and cant load rave and have searched for ages online and cannot find anything. They are as follows: Grey white Grey green Grey orange and to the motor origionally Grey orange grey white Many thanks, Hugh

Roof tents are great if it's dry I found unless you've a clam shell one that are much better in the wet. I have a Auzzy swag, hammock and tent and for Europe I've returned to a full length bed in the defender. The caranex might be another option if you like being able to return to the car when it's wet etc.

Haha lads, If you get very stuck let me know as i"ll be coming back up through that area at the weekend with my 110. H

I was trying to link to just the thread but cant. Its dated the 29th of October https://www.facebook.com/groups/18623089928/

Will is making his own new kit with the offer of just the bracket or the complete kit with all ready to fit. There are additional options too. He has a website nearly ready to go so far as I know. The quality of his parts/workmanship is incredibly good. I'll try and get him to join this thread. H

Its a new truck. Just bought with no mention of the problem. It drives like a train till 3000rpm and then just stops suddenly and acts like its missing. Im going to check the pipes in the morning and the hi/low switch.

Rightio, I have done some experimenting using a hawkeye and a few other bits. Following on from comments I checked the boost regulator using the hawkeye and with another known unit. There were no other errors on the ECU apart from a injector trim data error which will not clear. MAF is ranging up from idle. MAP is measuring and changes with revs. Coolant temp ok. Air temp ok. EGR tested ok but didnt change with revs. Firstly I took the fuel tank pump out and apart again to find that the internal filter was simply full of a black sludge. I didnt do ths before. I eventually cleaned this out (with petrol) and put it back together and rebled the system. No change I then went and looked at the Fuel pressure regulator and cleaned the filter out and then discovered that someone had put the pipes back onto it the wrong way round. So the feed to the cooler was in the top hole rather than the bottom. I swapped this around. I went for a spin and the fuel filter at the back by the wheel was stone cold. I replaced the fuel pump with another known good unit as I was concerned with the amount of sludge I found after the filter. No change I changed the FPR for another known unit and the vehicle is vastly improved but the problem is still there The rear fuel filter is now hot after a short run (3-5 miles). I also cleaned the air sensor in the airbox. Can anyone shed any other insights? Something someone has mentioned is the High/low switch ok? I do remember seeing on the hawkeye that security didnt stay stable (High/low flickering). Has anyone else any thoughts on this and what it relates to?

I'll have a look for that in the morning. Where is the switch? Thanks for that. I tried another fuel pump and reg today and still the same. H

Hi, Im having a issue with my 2003 TD5 discovery. To put it simply the vehicle refuses to rev above 3000rpm. It doesnt matter how hard you push the peddle it just sits there and what feels like mis-firing. I have checked the following: I have checked that the wastegate is free and is working (using a hawkeye) the turbo wastegate modulator is working (tried a test and tried another unit) and checked the pipes The airflow meter is recording figures the throttle pot is working (using diagnostic) new fuel filter has been fitted. air filter is ok and intake pipes are clear the looms are free of oil cleaned the base of the fuel pump of dirt in the tank Can anyone think of anything that will cause the problem? It drives very well otherwise. Many thanks, Hugh

I loved my swag so much I brought it back with me to Europe!

Shackleton, is your truck irish? We use no road salt and that makes such a huge difference to vehicle corrosion. H

Agree with you mate. Much better for the gearbox and often economy.

Where in the world are you too? How hot ambient is it? Id check earths or even fit a cheap block temp gauge just to be sure. H

Sorry thats what I was meaning. C+E. H

Its going to get harder. All Id suggest to people is to invest in a full truck licence. I did this 3 years ago and it just removes all the worries when driving a car and trailer. H

It'd be great if we all had this problem! H

As already said, they also need glows unlike the mechanical pumps. IMO if you have to start buying too many parts, Id revert to a mechanical pump. H

You need the bits you have listed. You can take a ignition feed off the plug that connected to the old injector pump or run a ignition feed from the switch. The only thing to be aware of if you go down the ignition feed option is to make sure you take a feed off the always on ignition wire as one switches off all power to everything else when all power is sent to the starter. Hope that helps, Hugh