TSD

There is an official installation manual with cad drawings of flywheel housing etc., so you can work out your own adapters. It looked to me like the turbo position might be a PITA for a RHD land rover but I never got further than a coffee time project. ISTR it was developed by Cummins for a Nissan research project for a small diesel for US market pick up trucks. I only found it in one production vehicle, a chinese pickup that was available in Australia. At one time the engines were listed on Alibaba, even before Cummins released the Re-Power kits.

When production of the 300tdi engine stopped here, the design was sold or licenced to International / MWM, who continued production in (I think) Brazil, then later in Argentina. They were available in several versions, 2.8 and 2.5, with conventional or variable nozzle turbo. In that market, they were used in Ford Rangers and Merc Sprinters, and there were generator set and marinised versions as well. I think engines were supplied back either to LR or MOD as service units, as well as to LR for RoW vehicles. The last rework programme of the Wolf 110s fitted 2.8 engines. I think those had wastegate turbos from the couple of pictures I've seen. LR will probably have had service lifetime supply contracts for MOD vehicles, so the only options would have been fill a warehouse with spare engines, maintain a full facility to build small production runs, or do a deal to get someone else to undertake the manufacture. The 2.8 engine had some head rework to improve cooling, but I don't think that carried over to the 2.5 units. The most obvious external difference is that the head bolts alongside the manifolds are smaller diameter than on 300tdi. I have the HS2500 parts catalogue if you need it, but as far as I know all parts are direct crossover from the 300tdi. Motor& Diesel used to sell both 2.8 and 2.5 engines and conversions and still supply parts last time I looked.

Following Escapes suggestion, likely sticking brushes, especially if the car has been offroad/wading in the past. I don't know the td5 at all (or what style alternator is fitted to it), but often the brush pack can be removed as an assembly without even taking the alternator out. Clean it up and make sure the brushes move freely - or just change it while you're in there.

With Webers, you'll probably find better info if you look for the four letter model code for the carb, rather than the throttle size. Probably the best book on Weber carbs is John Passini - Weber Carburettors, Theory Tuning & Maintenance. Not easy or cheap to obtain though unless you're very lucky. (I was, about 20 years back) There is a Haynes manual solely on Webers, which is probably quite useful - I only have a PDF of the section on DGAS carbs, but that part is pretty good. EDIT: Looking around for a PDF of Passini, found this instead which might be useful.

If you really need to join it in the middle, there's no major problem, but cutting the connection at one end or the other and feeding the cable through is always better. Most cb antenna bases will allow you to remove the coax, or accept the same PL259 plug as the radio, which is cheap and easy to fit. F connector is a poor choice for lots of reasons. It's the wrong impedance and it's designed for solid conductor coax.

I have a couple of the aftermarket VDO 6k units, works just fine on a 300tdi. I needed to do some adjustment with the TGV engine because the alternator has an unusual number of poles, but with standard tdi alternator it was nearly spot on straight out of the box. (Second unit was already fitted on the 200tdi when I got it).

This is called a 'gumption trap'... ... named by the author in "Zen and the Art of Motorcycle Maintenance"

I don't have much/any more info than you, I simply had already read the doc I linked as part of the canbus reverse engineering that I was doing. The doc I linked before says 'The control module will exit stand-by mode if there is any LIN bus activity. When the control module exits stand-by mode it must verify the 'System Enable Status' in order to recognise when it should respond to a switch request.' So a normal LIN wakeup should bring the seat out of standby, but then it probably still won't respond until it's been told to. It's not clear to me if the LIN bus master is the seat memory module or the CJB. If it's the CJB then it's probably not too hard to spoof the required message, once it's been sniffed from a working vehicle. I have almost no experience of LIN bus, but it looks fairly slow and simple to work with. Somewhere round here I have a usb to k-line converter I built about 5 years back that might be useable, but I haven't really thought about it. I was/am considering putting a D3 instrument pack into the 300tdi Ibex I'm building, which is the only reason I'd looked into the various D3 busses at all.

You don't have to tighten down the spring compressors, just snug them up on the spring before you jack the car up. That way the spring can't extend when unloaded, and you know exactly the maximum force applied to the compressors - the corner weight of the vehicle. And you know before you start that you'll get the spring out easily without jumping on the hub, letting the brake line go etc..

Not sure why you think I'd could help, have you seen what happens when I mess with vehicle electrics??? D3dashboard.mp4

Or just use the same micro to provide the AUTH message that the seat needs to see from the LIN bus before it will operate normally?

Your seat controller is in a fault/shutdown condition called 'inch mode' because it hasn't got any communication with the rest of the RRS via the local interface bus. "The seat will be operational in 'inch mode' only if there is a LIN bus failure."

Sadly his soldering is still better than my mig welding

That's better than your soldering!

... clearly has is different meaning to you. It is not 'loading the line down', but in fact 'not pulling it up'. If you removed the bulb entirely, would it then be loading it down to the greatest possible extent?

It's an issue for Puma seats, where the middle seatbelt is part of the seat. The IVA manual has some guidance on what to think about in terms of mounting and bracing - could be worth a read even though you aren't heading for an IVA test. In reality, you can probably put the seats in with not much more than superglue and gaffer tape and still pass an MoT, and no-one will ask any questions until those kitten transporting nuns crash into you. Doesn't make it sensible, or legal.

Other way around, the warning light is not supplying enough current to get the alternator up and running. If the light goes out when you come above idle, then stays out, then it's all fine. As cackshifter said though, below about 3000rpm (alternator rpm not engine) you won't acheive 45Amp out. Expect half that or less at idle speeds. If your typical load at idle rpm is below 20A, there's probably no great benefit to an upgrade.

Far Corners list second row seat extensions on their website, at a price that could most charitably be described as 'reassuringly expensive'.

Saw a leaf motor on ebay a while back and couldn't help thinking that for a quick and dirty project, it could probably fit in place of an LT230 driving front and rear props from the Leaf diff, and leaving loads of battery space in the engine bay. I think overall gearing would be roughly halfway between normal high and low range, so not good for everyday use, but for a greenlaner or playday truck, not so much of a problem... And if it doesn't work out, stick it in an argocat instead Luckily, I have enough projects to keep me busy already, so it remains just a coffee-time idea.

I will be mostly making incredibly slow progress at not getting the Ibex built...

I reckon a good chassis earth at both ends will be fine for most people, most of the time. It might (probably will) have a slightly lower stall load and run a bit slower under high load, drawing a bit more power, and run a bit hotter. The separate cable isn't really separate of course, it's in parallel with the chassis connection in most cases (and if it isn't, why not?) but the quality of the connections may have a bigger influence than the chassis/wire size in a lot of cases. I measured the losses of a few winch isolator switches last year, but the results were so depressing I wanted to recheck them before I published them anywhere, and never go around to it. There's a surprising number of connections in a typical winch circuit (~12) so making each of them as well as possible quite important.

I was looking for a new horn for the Ibex last year - 15 years of mud and water finally killed the airhorn. I looked at the Stebel Nautilus as that seems the common choice, but found a lot of online comments about unreliability. Might be due to fake sales from the far east, don't know, but it put me off trying one. Hella has website listing the horns they make https://www.hella.com/MicroSite/horns/en/index.html (with sounds for annoying your work colleagues!). It looks like the Red B133 is the loudest they make, but the second loudest was much cheaper (and Yellow ) so I bought those. In fact, I got a second set in ready for 2Bex.

Did it shut down on the key? If so, the fuel pump is stuck in the start position, which is the same as full throttle. I had it happen to me a few years back. I think there must have been a little water in the diesel left in the IP. (If not then it's probably oil through the turbo seals into the intake) I'm told sometimes they free off after a few starts, or with a little fiddling fettling. Mine required the FIP to be rebuilt at a local specialist to sort it out properly.

Just for completeness, added ETC8496 to the list. This might be a useful one for someone, as it's very close to AMR3321 in performance, but packaged like ERR2081, so fits the sensor boss hole in the middle of the 300tdi head. Might be a useful conversion part for someone? ETC8496.csv

If you're going for loads of Ah, then keep all the paralleled batteries on the leisure side the same if you can (so they can share the load as equally as possible), but less important that the starter battery is the same, because the capacity on each side is different. Most often people are only adding a single second battery of 100Ah or so, and then it's easy to keep the starter and leisure sides exactly the same. In truth, you may be over thinking it. None of this is "this works, this doesn't", it's more about getting the best performance in the space and the budget, and how long it all lasts - or rather how fast it degrades. The hurdle for deciding it's time to replace a battery is very variable. Years ago, when I was young and skint, I'd replace the battery when the car wouldn't start on a cold morning (and usually only after a fortnight of dragging it indoors every night to charge it!). These days I'm old and skint, but I'll replace a battery long before it's needed when I know it's starting to degrade, because I feel a battery is cheaper than a morning off work, and I get to choose what to spend, and change it in the dry weather. When I used to go to all the LR shows and the like, and ran a hungry coolbox to keep the beer cold, I used to buy a big cheap battery from the local trade place, knowing I could cane it completely flat on a sunny weekend without worrying, and it could spend the whole week on a float charge in the shed. Even with nothing but abuse, it would probably last a couple of years, and the most it would cost me was one cheap battery (and a weekend of drinking warm beer).