oneandtwo

What about the crankshaft seal housing gasket - it seals against the journal that you have removed to fit the T seals and is the use once metal type?

All the last batch of 110s have them - that is on one of our 15 plates - the dmax is now the replacement for the defender in WPD I’ve never used it to be honest, I guess it is there to step on when removing ladders and rods from the roof if you aren’t tall - you can’t get in the back of them as they all racked out.

Yep same as my WPD 110 (luckily not got a dmax!)

Nope it’s bolted through the lower mountings of the Dixon bate slider. Safe T step I think.

I’ll look on mine tomorrow, I’ve never used it! I think it is just a universal van step

The whole vehicle has had a respray - if the roof doesn’t have alpine windows, it is always white as opposed to body coloured. So I expect it to be a lot rougher under the fresh paint!

Yes I have a few. I will dig one out tomorrow. shame I was just down the road from your Defender last weekend!

How soon do you need a complete heater unit?

Late 200tdi 90s with disc brakes also have the vin number stamped on plate behind the left hand side of windscreen. I’ve had three of them all L reg. if chassis number has been ground off or a “repair” has been carried out on dumbiron, the chassis is usually date stamped on the outer face between fuel tank outrigger and bulkhead outrigger right hand side, usually month / year.

I Found 7.50s vary massively in size, comparing a Goodyear extragrip 750 to a deestones xtragrip 750 (same tread pattern), the Goodyear looked like a 650.

On a 200tdi as well as the door loom the heated windscreen requires a separate plug in loom in the dash which incorporates a relay and the switch. The dash loom usually has the wiring for the wiper switch already.

What function do the disabled toilet handrails form?

Anyone here done a ground up rebuild of a puma or would mine potentially be a forum first? My 08 plate is mechanically good and structurally perfect, however the body is dented all over as ex utility. I was going to live with it but ended up so far buying a brand new bonnet from main dealer, perfect Csw non bulkhead rear tub, new wings and replacement roof in preparation. I’m sorely tempted to go the whole hog and order a new chassis from Richards and get the bulkhead blasted and zinc sprayed and do a ground up rebuild and sort out all the niggles once and for all. I bought it for my wife but she doesn’t like the gearbox!

I have seen it before, pulley been held by stilsons etc to undo pulley bolts.

would definatly be replacing the damaged pulley. useful reading - https://www.gatestechzone.com/en/problem-diagnosis/accessory-drive-system/micro-v-belt-wear-symptoms And http://www.daycoproducts.com/stuff/contentmgr/files/4/ace577b10a57eebd0c10fc4c729acf33/files/047376a_belttrainingprogram___2016.pdf

The Quinton Hazel pump is the problem. They were good once but not any longer - I tried one a few years ago and it failed within months- Airtex OEM are the best.

The howling is generally caused by the unevenly worn belt. If you put a new belt on it odds on it won't howl until it's worn again. Likewise you can put a worn belt on a perfectly aligned engine and it will howl. I still prefer the 300tdi, my experiences are spread over at least ten different engines. These engines never howled when they were new - it's generally cheap pattern alternators and water pumps causing it. my Puma had the same worn belt howl when I bought it, had to change the tensioner and idler bearings and put a new belt on it, lovely and quiet now.

It's called belt pilling and I've had at least ten 300tdis and have faught / fixed it for years! It's the reason why lots have the terrible squeak, nothing to do with the usually blamed tensioner. Out of line alternator is the usual suspect, especially pattern alternators, I've had to shim them with three M8 washers before to get them in line. Lack of use causing rusty pulleys, worn pulleys, cheap water pumps and failing bearings also cause it. Ive had a 200,000 mile plus 300tdi that would eat belts, that had worn pulleys with the peaks being knife sharp and cutting through the belt. Others would have lots of embedded debris on the top smooth surface of the belt - I think this is also caused by out of line pulleys but also rusty / worn tensioner and power steering pulleys - the out of line grooved pulleys cause the belt to enter and exit the smooth pulleys at an angle. If the smooth pulleys are rusty and pitted it abrades the belt and causes debris. Ive tried cleaning out belts but if studied carefully usually one side of the groove is worn past the velvety surface and down to smooth rubber. Once cleaned out they tend to run quiet for a few minutes then the debris starts to build up again. Best bet is to attempt a cure such as realign alternator or replace worn pulley, then fit new belt. Look at alternator and waterpump pulleys first as these also spin faster and more potential for wear. They are also closer together so less chance for belt to naturally deflect and correct slight misalignment. If the tensioner jumps up and down at idle it is indication of belt debris. My current 300 has just started to show debris in the belt grooves so I have just treated it to a brand new Denso OEM alternator which came with new pulley prefitted, and being OEM hopefully it will be correctly aligned. Also fitted a brand new genuine tensioner, new power steering pulley and belt. I will also treat it to new idler and waterpump pulleys shortly.

By their design, the landrover ones will outlast the ash tree ones- the 2005 onwards ones are galvanised, have all the water traps designed out and no box sections to rot away. When water inevitably enters through the outer lower window seal it is immediately dispersed through three large drains instead of seeping through the older box sections and their easily blocked tiny drains. They also have far superior moulded lower seals.

You bought the old type alloy skinned doors as retroananconda suggests. The one piece 2005 galvanised steel ones on my parents old td5 are immaculate still and that's has spent twelve years out in all weathers by the sea! I have three defenders myself all with late doors and there is not one spec of corrosion or rot anywhere to be seen.

Regarding the front, just buy a complete disco 300tdi front axle and radius arms and swap them over. Disco axle will be fifty quid or so, radius arms you can't give away!

The 2005 onward doors are light years ahead of the old type, do not rot and are far stronger. Personally I wouldn't mess around with the older type!

As a test you can undo the stop solenoid and remove the plunger then refit it. If it still won't run it rules out the solenoid and any wiring issues. As said before have you looked inside the lift pump if it is a Delphi one? The lid is keyed and will only fit in one position if it is a Delphi, otherwise it sucks air.

Make sure you chock under the sump, I had one sat on the floor and it fell forwards onto the crank pulley and bent the crank! Luckily I had at least five spare 300tdi's