oneandtwo

The originals were fibre type which I always found split, the replacement type now I think are metal composite? It’s a few years since I’ve had a 300tdi now.

Every 300tdi I have owned (over 20 of them over the years) has come to me with the original type intake / exhaust gasket split as mentioned above. They always split on the intake part causing the oily mess. I change the intake gasket, rocker gasket, leak off pipes and breather pipe on each 300tdi I have as a matter of course. Also check the injector pipes are tight as often found a loose one weeping very slightly. Also the only way to get a truly leak free cyclonic breather is to fit an Allisport one - I’ve changed o rings and tried additional sealer on them plenty of times in the past but the plastic always distorts when bolted up and they start leaking again. Only since I have fitted an Allisport breather a year or two ago has my 300tdi top end been absolutely leak free.

Technically that is wrong - it will only fit td5s and pumas that came without the spring fitted. Pre 300tdi used a different pedal box without the cutout for the springs.

I had an 04 td5 that didn’t have it, yet a 56 td5 and 08 Puma it had returned. But all 300tdis had it as standard.

They are available aftermarket - https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/REPLACEMENT-NEW-LAND-ROVER-DEFENDER-TRANSPONDER-KEY-BLADE-LF10-1-1/142498314459?epid=1588467542&hash=item212d8fb8db:g:kK0AAOSwu1xZzBeR

If anyone is replacing their vent flap foams, avoid Genuine Land Rover ones! I fitted a new pair to td5 3 months ago, they were a terrible fit and the adhesive between the foam and the adhesive strip failed on both of them. I’vejust bought and fitted a set from Britpart and amazingly they fit the vent flaps perfectly and appear to be far better than the genuine items.

Roamerdrive have obviously not seen the underside of a Tdci then!

They were changed to flanged bolts for above reason.

BTW the LT230 should have flanged bolts not bolts with washers - the bolts are designed to seal against the face to prevent oil weeps

Mine used to get really hot in the summer on motorway after an hour or two - Allisported 300tdi with disco transfer box on a 90, the above sump did make a difference to the heat coming through the handbrake gaiter - I drove non stop to Scotland from Taunton last summer prior to fitting it and it was like a hair dryer on my leg I've got a TDCi now and the cooler doesn't fit but it doesn't seem to get as hot for some reason

If it’s a 90, fit a pair of 300tdi rear halfshafts - that will probably cure half the clunk. The other half is likely to be the adaptor shaft as above. I have the Ashcroft adaptor kit but haven’t ever got round to fitting it to my TDCI yet!

The transfer box will most probably be an easy fix you can do yourself, they are basic and easy to work on.

Jim, it’s not a stop on the shaft, it’s the adaptor I mentioned earlier which has been used to convert a disco short shift rail into a defender long shift rail. Not really a problem but one more part to potentially come loose! (My puma suffered the same problem, completely different gearbox but shift yoke came undone like yours)

Are Ashcroft now supplying discovery r380s with their shift rail adaptor rather than proper defender r380 boxes?

I bought four genuine td5 bulkheads from the last batch land rover made in early 2016, for around the same price. Despite some ridicule at spending £4000 on them they have proved a good investment as I have sold two of them recently for £2000 each!

Mine did exactly the same. Would cut radio when lights operated. More worryingly occasionally it would also cut power to stop solenoid for split second when lights turned on. It was poor earth from transfer box to painted galvanised chassis. Cleaned off paint back to clean metal and has been faultless for 4 years.

The proper qr connectors for the puma/tdci tank are only £4 each. I used them and Oem spec rigid nylon pipe to make my ROW fuel lines, save rubber hose from perishing in the future.

I have been plagued by bent axles over the years. 1950 80” had a bent front axle casing, due to collision in 50’s I believe and was never spotted until I bought it. 1966 ex army 2a bent front axle presumably during military service 1968 lightweight bent front axle, this was a trialer so could’ve happened trialling or military. 300tdi 90 bent rear stub axle, rear wheel didn’t look quite right and half shaft hard to remove as binding on stub axle. Finally I bent a 300tdi front axle clipping a wall at 15- 20mph. No bodywork damage, popped the tyre and bent the axle!

My 1968 lightweight had the strengthened front and rear axles, the front one was still bent despite the reinforcing! If you look carefully, as well as being fitted with the additional VPK aeon spring mountings the front casing in photo above is reinforced on the short side too - bump stop is braced to the spring locating foot on front and back of front axle. Both my 1980 lightweights had standard unreinforced axles.

I’ve had Alli sport breathers fitted to my 300tdis for ages. I’ve never had any oil in the air filter, but I always used to get oil leaking from the old cyclonic breather to rocker cover joint, despite new O rings etc. The Alli sport breathers totally cured that leak. I was on the understanding that the Alli sport breathers are actually not as good as the original cyclonic breathers as I didn’t think there was actually anything inside the Alli sport ones, they are just an empty chamber?

My 300tdi 90 is definatly down on performance since fitting the hideously expensive genuine Land Rover Puma raised air intake.

My 300tdi has just started intermittently flashing its battery charge warning light, it only happens on long motorway runs after about 1/2 hr, it flashes for a fraction of a second and then off again every 20 - 30 seconds, although I’ve just done a 150 mile trip and it’s was definatly getting more regular. It seems entirely random and doesn’t follow any pattern such as bumpy roads, use of any vehicle electrics etc. its a 6 month old Denso alternator (300tdi disco model but with upgraded wiring), all connections and wiring appear clean and tight. any ideas before I replace the alternator?

And don’t be alarmed when it’s all done with the time it takes for the engine to warm up on the instruments. Mine with original instruments used to be up to temp after a minute or two. Soon as I swapped to the late sender and td5 instruments warm up period took 4 times as long.

My two Allisport full width 300tdi ones have been fine, both at least 7 years old. I fitted aircon nosecones as the standard panel rubs agains the intercooler even when trimmed

I though that was the function of the G valve on earlier vehicles- this valve block is mounted transversely across the vehicle so not sure how a ball and spring would function as it would need to be mounted lengthways like the old G valve / series PDWA valve was?