steve_a

Is it an EDC or mechanical version? This just rings a bell as a sign of the EDC injector having a fault - there isn't that many about and, to make it worse, AFAIK the injector is not available, only refurb of yours is the option. Have a google on the 300TDi EDC to check it out, but I believe all or most UK 300 Autos were EDC (Australia apparently didn't have any). Your other option if EDC is to get a manual pump and injector. You can fit them to swap to mechanical only. All of this is bumkin if it ain't EDC. If not then it would suggest a fuel issue, though it's strange, the lift pump is best to have, but you can definitely run without it and probably notice no difference (I didn't), and everything else would tend to be it either works or not on these motors.

The magazines are really of interest to those with vehicles until about 2004 (last D2's) and Defenders till last year. But even the defender stuff hasn't changed since forever, the engine being the only evolution. I just don't see your majority of D3, 4, 5 et al and Range Rover owners being interested in a land rover mag. So if your subject hasn't barely changed in 10 years, how can you write new stuff? Personally I'd be interested in a worldwide mag (probably online) with articles written about travel in rovers, bush repairs and home fixes with less than ideal kit. * Home mechanics (and not using 4 posters, specialist tools you can't get etc.) * Bush mechanics * Designs and 3D print files for specialist tools/home made tool solutions * Competition coverage * Travel articles With the workshop manuals, microcat, the tech forum here, AULRO good oil and others the 3 pages of coverage for how to do something is pretty lame.

The later headlights are a nice design, I'd suggest any leak is likely to be tired O rings on the covers. Dry it out and replace all the O rings and see how you get on.

Viscous fan will always spin, but if the engine is doing say 2000rpm then then fan, unlocked, will be doing 800 for example. Once locked up it will be one for one. TDi's run nice and cool, I removed the viscous fan off mine in the UK and had an electric for the odd time (mainly off road) that it was needed. So your gauge is probably fine, even here in Aus, the 300TDi in winter (so usually about 15 to 20 deg c ) it would take 15 mins to get some hot air out of the heater. On overrun in the Snowy mountains I actually had the engine temperature drop below warm up after a fair bit of time coming down....

As I'm sure you guessed, that should be (zz * 25.4 ) + 2 * ( xxx * yy/100) I'm just so used to having 16" wheels that my brain didn't notice it As an aside, 235/85R16 are generally held as a great size, you keep the steering lock and get about the biggest diameter you can, 29.1" up to 31.7" but slightly narrower than what you have. Check out tyre calculator , one of the first that came up, but has the useful comparison tab on the calculation along with estimated speedo changes

Close, first number is tread width in mm, second number is wall height in % of the tread width and the Rxx is the rim/centre hole diameter in inches. so if xxx/yyRzz is the numbers the diameter is (16 * 25.4 ) + 2 * ( xxx * yy/100) in mm, so divide by 25.4 again to get inches.

The D2 switches are only momentary that are meant to send a signal to the BCU. The BCU then sends signals to the relays and the lights come on. I reckon this is more or less true for every switch on the dash on the D2. You say project vehicle, if it's just a D2 then use nanocom to check the BCU can turn the fogs and other lights on, if not then the problem is in or after the BCU.

Crank position sensor. Causes the M+S flash and the cut out. Located near the starter motor on passenger side and can be a pain to get to. Read the DTC and confirm it though.

Make sure the cooler is clean on the outside. Usual double oil change is normal after that, however it might be a better idea to remove the cooler return line and feed line, give it a blow out and try to flush some clean oil through, then do the double flush. You can do a single flush with the return line off, but it's a bit tricky and impossible by yourself. The transmission filter might also be worth changing as part of all that too.

I have a remap from Jose at TD5 Inside. It was a super easy process and seems well put together, I have a heap of extra power and I've not noticed any smoking issues. I still haven't gotten around to fitting the EGT gauge, so can't comment on a before/after on that. I've spoken to him about the new turbo, they do a hybrid and a VNT/VVT. I was more interested in the VNT and it was about $2000 AUD + delivery, which seemed reasonable. A few of the AULROs have his hybrid and all seem happy.

Not advertising, and these have had mixed reviews on quality, but take a look at http://www.4wdsupacentre.com.au/products/roof-racks.html for what would translate to quite cheap ones with the A$ vs GBP at the moment. Or go and find them on Alibaba, you know they will be there. If you don't want to cart a trailer around for weeks the roof rack is a must here, tent, clothes, spares, all those things get tossed up there. We do try to get light bulky items up there. Of course my CoG just got adjusted down with the 130L tank in the D2 I added at the weekend :0

You can turn it off in Nanocom. Though I've got to say if you turn it off I don't know if it will just make it operate as a really nasty sway bar or operate as no sway bar at all. ACE has kind of 3 modes: Standard driving it acts like a sway bar Cornering it detects body roll and pumps up one side to level the car In low range it disconnects the ACE damping totally, so it's like having no sway bar. I doubt this is the reason for harsh ride though, I've driven an ACE D2 V8 on Kangaroo Island dirt roads, a D1 on lots of different types and a D2 TD5 without ACE. The best ride was the D2s and I can only think I noticed a difference on cornering for the ACE vs non-ACE, much preferring the ACE.

There is a chance that there is nothing wrong... The rubber donut is actually to reduce some noise transmission into the cab, so you could hearing that. I don't think you have messed anything up with the seal replacement, I can't remember if you have to take off the housing to do the job, but even so there isn't much that gets changed. You may have not highlighted an unhappy bearing in the rear output, if the previous seal failed it may have been play in the bearing that caused it, I suspect you'd need to take one end of the prop off to see if you have any wiggle in the transfer box end. If it's the bearing then it's a pretty straight forward job to replace.

Looked it up on Rave for you. The three connections are Live, Earth and water detected. These are looking for the connector end, and not the sensor end, but the pins are __@_ 1_2_3 __^__ Where the ^ is the indent and the @ is the push down to release. 1 - OG - WATER DETECT 2 - B (EARTH) 3 - WP - +12V No idea of what the output voltage is, it looks like it goes straight to lamp and not ECU, so may be variable or might be switch like. It may even drop to earth when water present, the Rave diagram is missing some information on that. HTH EDIT: the TD5 fuel filter has a slightly different size hole on the bottom allowing the sensor to screw in, IIRC you can't screw it into the TDi filter, I remember trying during a service when I picked up the wrong one. The top end of the filters are identical though.

There is a place down the road, near Wingfield on the way to Semaphore. Seriously, you may want to put a location in to get some useful replies. I know Ashcroft can test their items before sending out but I've never heard them offering a diagnostic facility.

There isn't a governor on the electronic boxes in these, the ECU controls it. Reading the description I'm wondering if you have a sticky solenoid and that it's got too high a gear engaged for the road speed. Changing the oil can loosen and stir up the gunk, which might have caused a solenoid or one of the balls in the valve block to stick. A good hard, hot drive might get it to shift the gunk? The other thing might be the boost box, I'd remove that and check if its better, there might be some issue for fuelling.

Check if the intercooler pipe has blown off, the one near the battery appears to be a culprit.

I think the South Australian test hasn't changed much from that description.

Just working on the logic of it... 1 power 1 ground 1 to sensor 1 back from sensor (maybe) Then it depends on how self contained it is 1 to warning 1 back from warning That's the six connections.., good luck figuring out which ones are which, you probably need to open it and put some pictures up

Autobox replacement, went to bolt the torque converter up and realised I hadn't aligned the flywheel access holes with the triangular tips of the flex plate. Was near in tears under the car as it meant it all had to come back out.

just comes off by pulling straight up, nothing more to it. I think I naturally end up in neutral and probably have the button pressed.

two bolts, looking from the gearbox end, they are about 5 o clock and 10 o clock. I think 10mm head. I found them a royal when I did the box last month and replaced with two studs, these need to be a bit on the short side though. And then use wing nuts for an easy refit. If you can get one, then the chances are you can pull the cover off as the rubber will give enough with one to go over

I put some 40mm (or may 50mm) spacers on my rear air bags and they came with height sensor extenders. We've done a few runs since this, a big road journey of about 3500km and a bit less but with some sand driving. They have been fine, we were reasonably well loaded on both trips with 4 adults, fridge, swag, big tent, spares, clothes, cooking gear and so on. I did pick up some extended brake lines though, I'd advise them on the rear because when you hit the off road ridge height it can get a fair old bit of separation at that point. So far I am liking the air suspension, fully loaded it rides better than the D1.

Did it let go at the swaged fitting? If so then you can replace with good quality jubilee clip and tightened up good.

I managed to unkink mine by putting a jubilee clamp around it to squeeze it back to round, I also turned the connector round a bit. The car fills a bit more now, still struggle to get a 100% full tank without spending 15 minutes trickle filling and rocking the car