steve_a

I did speak to the seller, the windows were made by a local Adelaide company, so nothing off the shelf from the sounds of it. For what it's worth, he said it was Complete Sliding Windows in Windsor Gardens, Adelaide. They don't have a website, so you won't get much more information unless you spoke to them. The advert was for a complete vehicle btw, quite nice.. but I have just gotten a 2003 TD5 Auto and am building that up for the new tourer for the next few years (hopefully a lot longer). The D2 has the radio antenna which I'm slightly reluctant to lose, so I'm not sure I even want to pursue this on the new one, I had weighed up ali gull wing doors on the back, the amount of gear we have in the back the windows are useless, likely to get broken and just allow everything to cook, it can exceed 50c in the sun here.

Reviving this thread due to having just spotted this on gumtree here in Australia. Trying to find out anything more about them since it would be handy for camping

With the relay only solution, I wonder about 2 issues: 1/ if you have the window one touching up and hit the down to stop then the BCU will then one touch down. You would need to hold a bit longer to avoid that. Would this also occur the other way, that a short dab of up while one touching down would cause it to go back up? 2/ I was buzzing out another few BCU inputs today, the rear screen heat switch and front heated seats, and they are not 12v signals on this switches as far as I could see, Which looking at some other BCU stuff I am not surprised at, are the windows ones actually 12 volt signals? I was thinking about it afterwards and I think I prefer the D1 one touch, which is a longish press (like 1 second) to activate, this matches what I'd think of doing, If I want to wind the window a lot I tend to hold down. I reckon I use the one touch as a two touch, a longish one to activate ala D1 and then a short one when I realise it didn't do it

It's probably one of those cases where a tiny pic chip can eliminate a bunch of complexity and doubt, take an input from the up button and down lines and a feed of the current draw. If not opening any window and a short press then latch in the appropriate signal (replacing the BCU operation). If going up or down and you get a button press, then remove the signal. If you detect stall condition, remove current draw. The BCU operation wouldn't matter because it would be done external, you could also potentially get a feed from the alarm from somewhere and roll the windows up too. 1x pic, a tiny one would likely do 1x voltage converter to generate stable 5v from 9v to 17v 2x conditioning (17v to 5v) 2x relays

I'd guess the BCU doesn't have the option at all. If it had it, it would be present under the alarm options so that you could close the windows with a superlock etc. There's no option, so I'd assume that they didn't incorporate it at all. To add it would involve both reverse engineering the existing code and writing new code, since you'd have to shuffle the existing stuff around and add in the new things. You'd be better off incorporating an add on, short press and it keeps the up signal on for X seconds and hope you don't choke anyone or maybe monitor the current draw like the BCU so you could detect a stall condition too,

If the car has SLS then the beeping was probably indicating it was pumping up during start up. As a newbie to the D2a with SLS I was also confused by the occasional beeping as I started up, thinking it was ABS or similar (the same beep happens when the 3 amigos kicks in...). The rest is probably a fuse, have you checked the drivers footwell and engine bay? The BCU is probably not the first place to look since it also controls headlights, indicators, windows and lots of stuff.

Is it me or do you always walk away thinking that you should have go more off? Very timely, I haggled and bought a new TD5 D2 on Monday.... and I said we were done with Land Rovers and moving Toyota.

I adjusted mine the other week and then, even though I'd checked and checked with the card off I closed the door and oof, the door didn't open. Heart sank, tried to get the card off but it's nigh on impossible I reckon. I ended up taking out the drivers seat, after that it's actually pretty easy to remove the door card and then it's easy to manipulate the lock. I did try a slim jim, but I don't think I had the right thickness of metal since it kept bending. I was lucky, I've had the seats out quite a few times, so they were happy to come out, but if you haven't done it before I'd suggest you just angle grind the outer bolts off from underneath, the internal ones are on captives, but they also seemed a bit less stuck than the outers. 4 bolts one on each corner, think they were 10mm, access is a bit tight for the back left one, you need a dinky 3/8 (?) ratchet for it.

Suggest you contact HBRO and ask if any member can help you out. Most likely you will have to be happy to drive about 1/2 hour from where it would end up to be somewhere you would want to leave it.

It may be that you are feeding the built in amp, later discos had a head unit feeding an amp with line out levels. The amp fed everything else (and very well too!) but if you feed it speaker outs you get line buzz and distortion. It sounds like he may have done some wiring that has made some speakers off the speaker outputs and maybe set up the others to take a sub-woofer-amp line out. Beyond that info, I can't offer much more help, on the two heads I've dealt with lately it has had a line out to go to a ancillary amp which feeds one in the disco but doesn't feed anything in the suzuki. So you may be in look with a bit of splicing onto RCA plugs.

20kph is too slow in a town, it's the old bridge theory, keep saying the bridge is lower to reduce the accidents, until no-one pays attention. 30kph, or 40kph or short sections of relevant areas at 20kph would be more likely to be observed. Interesting about the noting of a rego being enough and no stop, the thing is, assuming innocent until guilty, how do you remember about what you were doing at 14:23 30 days ago when you didn't get pulled over?

I heard, and have tried, running a bit of 2 stroke oil in the diesel to keep the FIP more lubricated. No idea if it has an effect, a bit quieter, but may just be mental effect. Certainly no visible ill effects, no extra smoke etc. No one has mentioned if the crank sprocket you fitted had the lip on it, the 300 does/should have a lip, there was an initial issue of misalignment and the lip, plus complete change of the front cover due to a FIP mis fit causing bending, was a factory recall. At this stage, and with 75k on the previous, I'd say you don't need the cover & plate, but make sure you got the lipped crank, Bearmach are the preferred as it is cast and not spot welded on it.

You don't need to drain the air con, the dash can be removed without getting near it, I know I did mine.

If the gasket has been replaced with instant gasket or if there was a damper plate bracket then the clutch will be higher. I removed the damper on the disco as I thought it was faulty and noticed that the pedal was higher, after all 2-3mm of spacer is a reasonable chunk of pedal movement.

Search for 3 amigos and you will be enlightened no end. I think, in general, you are best lifting up the ABS modulator and moving the wires out (option B as it is often called). About 99% of these issues are the PCB on an internal connector failing and crapping out, doing that rewire is the only solution that gets rid of it. Oh, the shuttle valve shifts the braking front and rear I think, though each brake is individually controlled, so not sure what the purpose really is.

Have a look on the Arb website and a few other Australian ones. If you need prices (since they can be a bit cagey) I can get them for you locally. At least it would give you an idea and then estimate shipping costs.

Perhaps a hybrid for a cheap field happy solution, rather than just 12v switched relay, but a timed circuit in there too so it only switches after say 5 mins. No starting issues then, but the main component is till a basic relay. FWIW, I have a piranha dual battery doofer (fitted by previous owner) and at about $400 or something here I'd be strongly tempted on a new install by basic, happy and servicable. Dual alts are a nice solution, but then you are also losing power by driving another belt/pulley I don't think I have that capacity to spare on my 300 TDi

By reports it's 11.9L/100km, that is the measurement std here, which google reckons is about 24mpg which is comparable to the disco once loaded to the gills

I wondered if the buy out by Tata would see defender move to being made in India. I had a bit of fingers crossed that they might go back to the 2.8 or other simplified engine design to suit the new market. Out here I think land rover has had it's day for off roading, I just can't justify going on too much longer with a rover, I don't believe I'll buy another one, barring a true toy which will be treated more like a competition vehicle. The newest disco I'd be happy with is still like 2004, so that's 10 years old. The sun here is taking it's toll on the interior and it's all those little fiddly things that are starting to add up (heater switches, sun visor blow out, sun visor clips, head lining, switches, heater flaps) as they all start to break and fault out it just get tedious to keep a car together that you plan to head off for weeks at a time in. I think our next one will be a Toyota 70 series with the big 4.5 v8 diesel to handle any towing we do... It'll break my heart, I wanted a defender from about 8 years old and was chuffed when I finally got a series 3 back in 2004. I've loved every rover I've had, but with the dismal support out here, it's just got past a practical option

Lift pump is my guess, especially mentioning the incline problem. It's reported (though I don't know if it's true) that the FIP will actually self pump a lot of the time but once on an incline I cam imagine it wouldn't have the oomph to overcome gravity.

One of the pedals on these cars is fitted with a elliptic pin to the pedal, I can't remember what one, and I might even be making it up, but the pin may be the wrong way round and you aren't getting throw. If you can push fluid out though then it's not throw. In that case bleed out the slave, I have found that pressure bleeding, in the UK you had gunsons easy bleed/easy discharge of all fluid, I haven't seen them here, but the SCA one way valves actually work pretty well. The only other thing I found was doing it in a kind short pump x3 quick, long run all the way down, type action. And come on Bill, 43c? It was 46.1c here today, you guys have it easy down in Vic :-p

I think the issue will be that this year may not be OBD2 interfaced. If not then http://alum.wpi.edu/~colinb/14cux_protocol.html will be of help. I am not totally convinced that the issue with hooking a standard RS232 converter up exist as described there, I haven't been back to review and make an interface for it as was planned a while back. However, if it is OBD2 then just hit aud.dx.com and order a bluetooth or usb reader. Arrive in less than a week for $40 and be worth keeping hold of. I'd help, but I'm over in Adelaide and that's a bit of drive :0

OO, I feel for you, that sensor is a bitch to get to as well. I think, and I did this job like 3 years ago, that you can get the sensor upside down and as you say the spacer needs to be in the right spot. I had the same results, all fitted and then didn't run, swapped the spacer and ran. You have a heat shield over it? Because its the heat that causes them to fail out (mine was fine cold then once warmed up cut out). I'd be very tempted to check the wiring, from memory the connector is a bugger to get to as well, start buzzing them out as much as you can.

I reckon you want to do something of a mix, if you relay in to create an OR with engine charge then the permanent on can stay on if the engine is on, which isn't a problem and then include a basic RC circuit into that so that it will go off say 10 mins after engine off. If you like I'll get my electronic bloke to draw up the circuit with some values etc for you. The IGN line can be counted as engine on, mostly, and it also allows a reset or override by leaving the keys turned to IGN if needed.

I'll be paying attention, if you have ACE, then that is the thing you have to fiddle with I believe.