Bowie69

Don't bother... if you want to restore your engine, pull it apart and rebuild it. No amount of oil additive can replace metal that has been worn away after 188,000 miles....

Looks very familiar to me too.... can't place it though

Careful, the later V8s had 6 bolt pulleys and that tool won't fit, and the even later ones (serp) have just two threaded holes, and no bolts!

Yeah, on the front face of the housing, there's about 8 bolts holding it on, but they are small, easily undone and rarely sieze. It's a half moon shaped piece of cast ali, and is removed to allow you to do/undo the torque converter bolts With it removed you get to see around a quarter of the edge of the ring gear

I did mine just over a year ago, so glad I decided from the outset to do everything, the more you look the worse it gets..... Most of the problem you will have is finding good steel to weld too, looking at your photos...

Check the dedicated Megasquirt/Jolt forum, this has been covered quite a few times

It's often easier to remove the bell housing cover plate than the starter!

Why do you think you need 4" of lift?

I quite like it.... for a bit of fun

My preferred solution would be a couple of cables with levers tbh, but having said that, I don't get much trouble with the regular setup

Just do it, what's the worst that can happen?!

Yeah... thicker oil = less leaks huh?

Of course, but just trying a different line of attack

Hmmm, you will only ever get about 4.5 litres of oil in an autobox, as you can't drain the torque converter, I hope you didn't top it up with another 9 litres did you? Good plan on the temp gauge front, will be interesting to see how hot it does run in practice. Had another thought on the oil level, I am pretty sure you can get rid of the dipstick and just plug the hole in the side of the box, use this hole as the filler level, someone else may be able to confirm... maybe JST IIRC.

I didn't think there was a washer behind the nut on them, there certainly wasn't on any of my Rangies...

Back in your cage, didn't mean you

You're missing something, the 1990 Rangie transfer case will be a Borg Warner one, not an LT230...

Lights, tyres, warning lamps, excessive oil leaks, wheel bearings, steering/suspension joints/bushes, and seat/belt security, fill the washers up and away you go, I think? Oh, and don't go to a play day beforehand

Sounds like you had them back to front TBH, the rear ones are thicker coils for Disco/Range Rover, even on a standard truck.

My guess would be not whilst he has a 5.2 V8 in bits in the same workshop.... That or he doesn't want to ruin the extra performance the 5.2 would give him by making his own out of bits of the Titanic.

Better made, lifetime warranty The quality difference seriously has to be seen to be believed.

Or..... it's quite easy to leave the old o-ring in place and have two instead of one -this leaks quite well...

You can test them yourself TBH, cleaning isn't REALLY necessary IMHO, other than a squirt of some solvent and cleaning up with a rag. For testing, put a piece of hose on the injector, then whilst blowing into the tube, put 12V across it. It shouldn't leak when off, and should blow through cleanly when on. You can test it all plumbed up to a fuel line too, which I have done to see injector spray patterns, but the above test should be sufficient.

Start from cold and allow to idle, foot on the brake and select R, N, D, 3,2,1,2,3,D,N. Pause in each gear for ~10-15 secs, then leaving it in neutral, go check your dipstick.

Double what TF costs...