landroversforever

I would go for the safari again, but get a 300tdi one and pipe it across from the other side... seals FAR better than the 200tdi variety!

I would guess at being over the max towing weight of a freelander.

What is the reason for not just doing the normal trailer test?

As above, you can only pull the rear shafts like this. (fronts are more involved but once reassembled you could drive with the shafts and CVs missing. I drove back from wales in front wheel drive only . Took off the rear prop and the shafts out and she drove just fine.

Try Ridgeway 4x4, near swindon. Cheney Manor Industrial Estate, Swindon SN2 2PY Mates have given them good reviews.

Useful trick if you've recently replaced the fluid, but if the fluid is old or of an unknown age I'd rather drain it completely and refil

I hope you have a video Soren!!!!

I thought just turning over the switch facia means that the lighting will be all wrong?

Mine did the same, and is in the process of having the slave changed. take out your wading plug from the bellhousing and see if anything comes out. Although the dust inside can soak up the fluid.

You don't have to do anything to the suspension or other components to fit a locker. Some say that you need uprated shafts but thats not what I have found. Ashcroft locker all the way. ARB are great, but the ashcroft is cheaper and removes the possible faults of the ARB.

hmmmm not sure I'll make it to chesterfield by 2pm Great to see this kind of thing, if only everywhere was to do it!

Just checked, my swivel kits were £25+vat. Reference on my invoice which I think is the bearmach number is: BR1718. If you want the MID number, drop me a PM

Mine is good as with my swivel balls for example, he said I could probably get it elsewhere cheaper and proceeded to google it for me! What brand is the OE kit?

One thing, what age is your 90? Mine is an '84 so I have the Railko bush in the top. It might be cheaper than the later one with bearings top and bottom?!

Check thats not for both sides?! I got mine from my local parts place MID engineering, they are near Wantage, Oxfordshire. I will have a look when I get home to confirm what the price was I paid! It was about 18months ago mind!!!!

the preload is nothing hard, just frustrating when you can't get the right combination (the preload is the resistance to movement of the swivel, done with the seal removed). You add or remove shims from the top pin until the preload is correct. I not get the britpart kits, just get the balls from them and go bearmach for the rest of the bits. Then you know they will be the correct shape/size/not made of cheese.

I found the same... Can't check their ebay as its blocked here at work.

If there is pitting on the ball then its really time for a new one. You can bugger about and smooth/fill the pitting, but you're just eeking out life from the old one. Having thought about it, it is unlikely to be oil in the wheel bearings, and therefore coming out from the hub seal. Can you see any oil traces coming down from the centre of the brake disk (axle side). You can change the oil in the swivel for 'one shot' grease. Put in by Land Rover as its thicker and therefore less likely to leak. Personally I think its a silly idea, I want to know when its leaking as leaking means water etc can get in.

I have a southdown one on my 90 and its great, but I got it second hand and I don't think they make them any longer. I don't know about the quality of the above but I would rather my money went to Terrafirma/Allmakes than Extreeeeeeeme4x4. I believe Guardian make one similar to the southdown one. If you're meaning clanking around in the receiver hitch hole, then a bolt or two clamping it will stop the movement.

On my truck I used Britpart Teflon Swivels, and the Bearmach swivel kits (about £25 a side IIRC). Quality of the balls was actually surprisingly good, and the swivel kits from Bearmach were great . Came with new pins/bearings/bush/shims etc .

Sunny weekend on the drive with several cuppa's But, it could be a couple of things.... Do the chrome (or possibly black) swivel balls on the end of the axles look corroded? or is the swivel seal definitely leaking. As EP90 oil on the tyre could also be the hub seal leaking too.

Carling are american, but they do make the switches in both configurations.

ahhhh I see .

I was trying to make it more inline with the classical restoration of Fridge's 109

Isn't the top hose the pipe going out of the rad. So the switch is then seeing the cooled water from the rad and not the engine temperature?