lrfarmer

7and 8 look good other than the stop in the middle are you using a peddle tig or button on torch tig

200 for strength

just got my self a 3 in 1 inverter welder, plasma cutter, tig. 50amp i've done mig, stick and gas welding, am looking for would to teaching myself to tig hoping i can learn good luck with the rest of your corse.

i thort so too took it out and didn't open till 82'c heater works atreat have to turn the heater off on long jouneys it runs 90'c+ can't do much towing at the mo, may have to put new rad on

my 90 runs at 60'c unless i put the muff on

i use my insa turbo ST one and around the farm and if driving carefully thay make less mess than the AT but if i get stuck it takes long to recover than getting stuck in the AT tyres

i've taken the center box out on mine and left the rear box it's change the tone but not much louder, Pickup was alot better

i use a old half power hacksaw blade grownd to a nife edge or an old file are good as there stronger

did't thay regester it as a tractor in the end

do you need to fit the auto peddal box, on my CCVer i'm taking the clutch peddal off and modding the brake peddal to take a auto peddal rubber the kick down cable fits on the other side of the injector rocker the throtle cable is no different on mine

no just adds charm looks a good project

cemical metal wont be ideal as it need to make good contact as the main power go's through it to the torch

i did this on my 90 when i fitted my disco engine. i've had no problems

i picked up a td5 back along the only thing i was thinking is you can fit 2 8" electric fans wich i was hopping would improve cooling at slow speeds the 2.8lt shougun has a 6" fan for slower speeds

so there isn't 1 contact for each sid just on and i take it must split at the relay un less there is relays for each side i hate electrics thank you for your help so far i'm hoping to fix it before sunday as i have my last RTV of the year and leave in the dark and come home it it too

is there a relay on the light or is it all done on the switch if on the switch is there 2 contacts or dose the wire split is it split before or after the fuses as there is full power at the fuses

i was looking at these http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/400204041667?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649

i've seen just the thing you after on some CCVers in my club and was thinking i want them when i build my CCVer i think there tomcat progressive spings i've got +2" shocks and had the fix top and bottom as the top keeped comming out

hi hope someone can help as i can't find any posts that covers it last night the right hand dip beam went out so checked fuse's fine so checked bulb also fine there is 12V on the dip wire but as soon as i put the bulb dose not lite and the power drops right off the main beam works fine so dont think it is the earth left light is working as it should

i have to fit my own as all my tyre shops won't tubes in tubless tyres tyres shops just do my ballencing now

any 10 spline diff will fit very easy to do on the rear just drain oil, pull half shafts out, undo rear prop, undo ring of nuts holding diff in. diff will be out, refit in reverse first time sould be done in an hour i've got to do it on my 110's front diff keep putting it off

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/280728697802?ssPageName=STRK:MESINDXX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1436.l2649 i've got one of these fitted much better than the land rover one

i got the disco engine in my 90 so the viscous fan hit the steering box and i can't get a cowling that would fit so i have a 14"fan on the rad, i dont need to the fan unless i towing and hard RTVs ( drove to hay-on-wye with the caravan on didn't need the fan on the motorway but once i got on the smaller roads i did need the fan) but i did have a 12" fan but towing the caravan overheated wasn't anuff air flow

i wouldn't rate them very highly fore road tyres as thay can corse trubble with balancing and i think the OKO dose say on the bottle not for road use( but may be wrong)

well the wind has changed and is getting colder