i have just had all of my dash off and there was no main earth for the wiring loom, i had a simaler problem but my heater light came on nothing worked but if it went out things came back on my problem was the earth on the starter motor and i have now made a new earth for the loom as well
i now have a new problem that my indicators work with out the ignishion on but i can live with that. unless any one can point me in the right direction
i have movered my tow bar to the same place, there was crush tubes on all three sets of holes
i moved mine up as when RTVing it was hitting every stone and bump
i have had to fit a drop plate to the sliding bit as it was to high for towing my caravan
on scrap heap racers many years ago one team (barly pickers i think) built a fastrac like with a lorry cab and had that regestered agricultural, so maybe if you went down the line of SVA/IVA you may be able to get it reclassified
i've been looking at me father inlaws 300tdi and it uses the n/a mounts and the down pipe misses
so i'm looking at my 300auto and think i can get it to fit without any problems
if i had the money i'd buy a gav chassis with 300 brackets as it's not a mod thay should need IVA/SVA
just had my paper work come £263 fully comp on each of the 90 and 110 +£20 on each for RAC cover(£40 for RAC cover didn't seem too bad, still cheaper then standered cover)
thay did want £326 for TPFT
when towing my caravan i never go over 50mph (mainly as the other half starts screeming) but did have a hairy moment 2 years ago then i got thrown right on the A38 by the lorry ruts
but slowing when a wag starts can be hard to get right
i'm hoping this will do my 90
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=200555319249&ru=http%3A%2F%2Fshop.ebay.co.uk%3A80%2F%3F_from%3DR40%26_trksid%3Dp4712.m570.l1313%26_nkw%3D200555319249%26_sacat%3DSee-All-Categories%26_fvi%3D1&_rdc=1
big ends arent a bad job i do it on my tractors all the time if you can find some one who can regrind the crank, it's just a case of taking the engine out taking sump off and poping the crank out and down to have reground new shells and put it back together
oil pump may want looking at just incase thats corsed the problem
i have the same desistion to make i've just got a 300tdiauto, and can't make my mind up on weather to fit the new engine and box or keep with the old one(my old LT77 is neckered), i have to replace master & slave cyinder every 2-3 years but have just fitted new 6 months ago
from who i've talked to im on:
auto - 5
manual - 3
it is a bodge but you could cemical metal the joints in
would get you going
have done this on tractor PTO's when the new ones are far to dear
they are still going