lrfarmer

rear propshaft UJ's most likey, diff would be my next thing to look at

that is nice but a bit pricey, i use a old 5lt fire Extinguisher with a tubeless tyre valve fitted in it, it will blow right up to ep00 the only problem is you can get blow back if the filler hole is a bit small

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/130675766709?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:VRI&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2661 you can pick them up from most draper stockests

there should be an ALRC club in your area that will do tyro's but thay may only do 3-4 a year

i have had this before as i use the same color can for red and white. i have picked up the wrong can before, i keep all my fuel reciepts so i can show how much and how ofteren i fill up with just to help prove it was an mistake i have since changed the color of my white can. ( every time i head to the M5 i drive past the VOSA yard J27 )

how much is rent per year don't know if mick is the same as me but my extinguisher has been in for 5 years and i haven't used it, (but may need a refill soon)

get your self a good gun wash as thay eat most of paint with out too much scrubbing i remove the needle and the spray heads and make shore those bits are clean and spray till it comes clear.

can't think there is any on the inside, from what i remember the biggest problem is the paint makes the hot gav pop( so hot gav flying in the air is not safe

the only thing is i think you need to get all the paint off as if theres too much thay won't dip it but maybe wrong

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/120879386712?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649

land rovers have too buch soft plastic to hit the sides

you need a steering wheel puller there about £10 on ebay

i fitted new seals 18 months ago still ok but the play is going to mean a new box is needed soon.

i've done it to tractor wheels and would do it to ccver wheels, but wouldn't want to on any road car as i'd worry about balancing the rim.

thats good as i was going to use them for my CCVer's fuel tank

i think there tanks are in alloy not stainless steel but maybe do one

i thinkl the oneshot come in 500ml tubes. but i top up with ep90 till the level hole(works for me)

i was planning on replacing with BFGs till i was at a RTV with someone with them fitted his truck was stopped every time because of the tyres(some one on sats were doing better)

i used them 4 years ago and had trubble free trasaction and there product was a very good quality, so it is a shame if there custermer communication has gone .

I've fitted 4 wheels and tyres on my roof rack so 28kg x 4 +60kg roof rack so 170kg+, drove to wales with ther caravan on the back as well and was fine maybe a bit top heavy

from 19 -34mpg is't so odd with everyones driving style and tyres sizes being diffrent

a tubless rim will have a small hump on the rim were the tyres sits to help keep it seated when corning( as sead before) i run tubes in my insa turbo ST and thay are fine but if i run them at22psi on the road thay do warm up and insa turbo tyres have ribs on the inside of the tyre witch rub the tube causing punchers on low psi's( i keep them at 40psi+ for road work, towing seems to sort the problem)

i get 270ish if runningn on the road tyres returns 27mpg and drops to 220 on the off road tyres so 22mpg

i fitted cheap poly bushes 3years ago the panard rod was a waste of time but the rear did 2 years and i've just done the fronts i have replaced them with poly again apart form the panard rod

i've done one or two i use a 5 ton hydrolic puller, i wd40 and give the sides of the drop arm a good wack with the lump hammer then put the puller on as tite as i can get it, ( then have been known to leave over night with puller on) then try to get puller up a bit titer then with a meter long punch and big lump hammer hit the drop arm from the engine bay( i've got a 200tdi with no fan cowling) it can work if by hitting the drop arm (ball joint end) with a sledge but this can brake the arm i've only once not mannaged to get it off after the seals went pop on the puller