disco_al

I can see your point about the LPG, although it should still have the cats fitted for the test, otherwise (depending on the tester) it may fail for having missing cats. the new one man test system doesn't like it when the tester tries to tell the system that a cat equipped car, hasn't got one. cut em open and take the innards out is by far the easiest solution.

it may well fit, although you could fall foul of the MOT man come test time, as yours should have cats fitted to it. does it need replacing due to corrosion, or cat failure? if they have failed, cut em open, gut em, and weld em back up as empty boxes. (cut the tops off though, where the mot man can't see )

I suspect already what this could be, but here goes anyway. I have already had a scan through the search results for vibrations in the Disco forum, and the general concensus for the symptoms i have is the prop u/j's. Anyhoo, this evening i started to get a strange vibration through the steering, around 20-30mph, while applying gentle throttle, for example while going round a roundabout. When letting off power, there is what can be best described as a "grinding rumble" from the front end area (difficult to say exactly due to the other rattles and squeeks). If i declutch, and drop into neutral, the same noise can be heard. The only work done recently was the transfer box front output seal last weekend, and whilst it was apart i made a point of checking for play in the output bearing, and none was evident. We parked up in Asda (shopping day ) and i crawled underneath to have a check. With the handbrake off (wheels chocked for safety with my socket set) and the box in neutral, i cannot detect any play in any of the joints, there is no detectable movement in the transfer bearing, and everything else appears in order, although i will get it up on stands in the morning for a better check. Am i right in suspecting dry u/j's as the problem? I suspect that removing the transfer end of the prop and swinging it out of the way mave have disturbed something, although i am a bit confused as to why it would show up a week later. BTW, it's a 1990 Disco 1 3.5 V8 Manual All suggestions are gratefully received. Thanks Al

had a similar problem with my disco a while back, in my case it was slack in the steering box, which was only detectable on full lock. adjusted the box and it has improved it. i did try, steering damper,front shockers, panhard bushes, new swivel bearings, new lower steering column, new drop arm ball joint & new drag link and track rod joints - all sorts to try and clear it. i do suspect that the hockey stick bushes are shot as well, because it still does it to a slight degree.

front spring retaining plates http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Landrover-Front-Heav...A1%7C240%3A1318

most cones i have seen have been on the chassis end. with the spring fixed to the axle. IIRC Gwyn Lewis, or possibly Llama 4x4 sell a spring fixing plate to hold the front springs to the axle, similar to the rear ones, but with a bend to go round the bottom of the shocker

it's the other way round over here, diesel touching £1/litre again, unleaded sat at 89p/litre, LPG 49p/litre how on earth did you get 150 litres in a defender???

"Now, I've told you before - that's NOT where you find a gigglepin"

There's always; Mud RWYB - This won't be a full quarter mile but it will be a flat straight muddy drag strip set up near the off road course. £10 for 3 runs

What age is the disco? If it's a DII, then IIRC don't they have an exterior A post trim that can have the cables behind it? If it's a DI, then the easiest way without a snorkel is going to be drill the roof (which is how i will do mine eventually), rubber grommet and some silicone sealer. Rest of the wiring for mine is already in place, running a separate fuse box in the glove box, powered off the 2nd battery. Switches are in the roof console, one to toggle main beam switching, one to energise them independantly of the headlights so they can be used as nighttime illumination for working on stuff in the dark.

excellent - thanks, it's a start.

Has anyone got a fairly close up view of the headlamp panels on a 300 series Disco please? I have got a 300 style front end (for not much money ) and will be planning to fit it to my 200 series, so could do with a few pics of the panels, primarily the headlamp mountings. cheers all

just watch out for the cowboys.... sounds like it's better to repair than replace to me. do the bits that you can, get some quotes for the harder stuff.

isn't there a maximum width for a RoW through a field that they are not allowed to go across?

slightly illegal, as all towbars from 97 ish were eec type approved to fit the manufacturers mountings. they are also now part of the mot (mounting points etc)

surely boedacia type sticks on the wheels would suffice???

the ball joint goes up from underneath the drop arm, nut on top of arm. no pics sorry, only going from when we converted a defender to a disco drop arm.

all you should need is the drag link end for the rh side of the rod

isn't that a disco lump? the defender turbo is mounted higher up IIRC.

http://www.aldi.co.uk/uk/html/offers/offer...m?WT.z_src=main :)

excellent stuff cheers. to be fair i cannot detect any play in the output bearing, obviously with the prop still connected. is it worth getting a bearing in, just in case it needs doing whilst its in bits?

Thought the international forum best for this one - if i am wrong then apologies all round. I noticed at the weekend that the front output seal on the transfer box of my Disco 1 V8 was dripping slightly (the smell of hot gearbox fluid wafting up from underneath gave it away) and needs replacing. I have ordered a new one this morning to do either one night this week (if i feel brave enough to do it in the dark) or at the weekend. So my question is this, how easy is this job? Anything to watch out for? cheers all

Escort EDIS module should be on the bulkhead/inner wing, flat black boxy thing with a 2" wide multiplug into the bottom of it

(Homer Mode on) MMMMMMMmmmmmm (Homer Mode off)

not done the light bar yet though. it was a wrap around bar that had been cut off on the A part, so i chopped the ends off and re welded it to create an a bar effect. images acquired from google type searchy thing....