mickeyw

For the reservoir to be emptying itself in a few days I would expect to see a pretty obvious trail if there was a hose/pipe leak. However IME, slave cylinder failure normally dumps the fluid into the clutch housing, and then the fluid runs out of the drain hole. If the inside of your bellhousing is caked in mud or other muck, it may be absorbing the lost fluid... Failing that, do you have any local friends comedians that may be having a laugh at your expense? Can your bonnet be opened from outside the cab (early spec)?

See if you can avoid any half term holiday dates, please.

Excellent work Barry, and refreshing that finally the plod have been seen doing something to earn their keep, even if they did need a little help. My family have been victims of crime on more than one occasion, and in each instance have been met with complete disinterest by those whose job it is to deal with the problem.

Do DVLA send out SORN renewal notices then? My RRC has been off the road for over a year and a half. When I first took it off the road I it was still taxed, but not insured. When the tax renewal turned up I declared it SORN. I've yet to receive a SORN renewal .

+1 for Turner Engineering. Always had faultless service from them.

Probably decreases its appeal I would think, purely based on the fact that there must be less people breaking series diffs these days.

The Mazda SL35 works well in LR application.

If you are referring to the collapsible sleeve on the centre shaft, they are collapsible for a reason. You should always fit a new one if you have rebuilt the box. The idea is that you tighten the nut on the back, until a certain torque is achieved to turn the shaft. As the nut is tightened the sleeve collapses. I believe on later models, or even some rebuild kits, this part has been replaced by a fixed length spacer.

I think this whole 'they break', 'they're rubbish', 'no-one wants them' thing needs putting into context. If you compete off road, run huge tyres, or continually drive like an animal, then yes they do break. But there are many LR owners that do not off road, don't have massive tyres, and just drive normally, and they may happen to have a worn out diff that has given good service through its lengthy life. These people will happily buy a 2-pin diff, as they likely just want a replacement unit of the same spec that was fitted originally. I run 33" tyres and drive enthusiastically, but don't compete off road. I have 2-pin diffs in both axles, one of which failed last year, through wear rather than abuse. I replaced with a 2nd hand unit I had lying about. It won't last forever, as it was pre-worn to some degree, but it'll do for a while. If I had had to buy one, my options would have been £40-50 for a used one, or stump up for one of Nige's fancy ones. If you had been selling at the time I might have gone to £150 for a brand spanking new unit, but would have baulked at paying any more, in favour of cheap 2nd hand.

This sounds an interesting conversion. 6-pot diesels certainly do have appealing sounds characteristics. I don't think I could ever enjoy driving a Tdi the way I do my V8. As this is a fairly high tech modern engine, what have you had to do with the electronics to get the engine to run, now it doesn't have the rest of the Beemer wrapped around it? From what I have read (briefly) there are many iterations of the M57, with varying outputs. What made you choose the car derived version for this conversion? I wondered whether the 3 ltr Td6 from the Range Rover would have had better torque characteristics for a heavy wagon like a 110. OK it will probably have had a harder life to begin with, what with hauling the Rangey around... but I would have thought it would also be better suited for running at off road angles of lean. Maybe this isn't your intended use, just my mind ticking over...

So you'll like this butchered 110 that can be found selling coffee

We had the same Murex Nick linked too where I used to work. Damn good machine it was. I should think in the 2nd hand market a lot of people are put off by the shere size of the plant. Everyone seems to want compact stuff for home, hardly surprising really.

I'd say it largely depends what size tyres made the ruts before you got there. If they were bigger than yours, you will have to work harder to get around.

Agreed Barry. We bought the bench top Clarke version at work, just for a few small odds and ends. I have to say that out of the box it is utter rubbish. Visibility is non existent after a few uses, extraction is also non existent, and the darned thing blows grit all up your front when using it, because the door just flexes up under pressure. It was necessary to wear a dust mask when blasting, even just for a moment or two. We even had the air pressure set lower than the recommended max. The intended use didn't warrant spending any more on a better model, so having to modify it to make it any good is pointless. Complete waste of money.

There's a smiley for that Barry. Shame on you

The inside or outside thing depends on what ancillaries are fitted. If it had air con fitted, the tensioner is flat faced and runs outside the belt. Without A/C you have a pulley with ribs and the edge lips.

I haven't seen a failure like that one Nige. Normally the early warning canary does its job well in advance of catastrophic failure. I have the cast type pulley, not the plastic one.

Totally agree with Bowie69, especially on the Disco attraction. Both have near enough identical capabities, but the Disco will never take the place of the original Range Rover.

3D printing isn't a cheap process either, but it can produce excellent parts for R&D, without having to fork out for tooling. I very much doubt you could print these parts any cheaper than the moulded versions already available to buy.

They have much deeper tread than a BFG mud (it says 24mm!) , the block are enormous. We are talking nearly as open as a Simex style pattern, but I believe with better road manners. Geoff, SJ4x4 on here, has a set on his missus' Td5 90, it's her daily driver. Why not PM him for an opinion.

I saw someone using scaffold safety mesh once, hung across the front of the std grille. It catches the muck and clogs up, so you take it off, shake the mud out and refit. It's a flexible mesh possibly nylon, oh and green when it's clean.

x2

Surprising how parking something inside a building can make said building look a whole lot smaller Still, it'll be great to come out into the Scottish winter snow, and drive off in a clean and dry Landy... oh that'll be after you've dug the drifts away from the doors, Is now a good time to suggest sliding doors???

This makes me wonder how diesel fired space heaters compare on the condensation front.

Pop into your local paint factors, they'll mix you up a rattle can, and will likely recognise your colour names. I have used C&C car colours in Crawley (not too far for you) in the past for Ardennes Green. Used it to refurb my Vogue alloys on the Rangey.