mickeyw

I think covers are a mixed blessing. Although you can keep the winch away from the winter salt, as well as give UV protection, it will be damp under there, which will make any unpainted bits go red :-) For synthetic I'd say remove it if you don't need it on. I'm one of the heathens apparently, as I prefer to use wire (I don't do comps etc). However last winter's salt rotted my cable, but at £20 for a replacement.... I keep a spare or two in the garage anyway.

Well I emailed the author of MM Tracker, and he tells me he is in discussion with AndroidPIT to get his app online again. I hope he has some luck with that.

Some while back I downloaded the frre version of MM Tracker onto my Nexus 7 tablet. I was so impressed with it that I was planning to buy the full version, as it has some worthwhile extra features. Unfortunately both the free and paid versions have now been removed from AndroidPIT. They were gone from Playstore some time ago. Presumabably this is because Memory Map has threatened nasty things if they did not comply. Has anyone got a download of the full version? Not that I have figured how to side load apps yet...

Well given that a 265 ought to be fitted to a 8" wide rim, I'd say fit a 12.50 on a 10" rim. There are a lot more 10" wide rims to choose from at 15" dia than there are for 16" dia. I think if you plan to run 33" tyres, you will need to get the jigsaw out and trim your arches. There's a lifted 300Tdi D1 around the corner from my work, he runs 285/75x15 BFG ATs (33" dia approx) and has trimmed arches at the rearmost edges, front and back.

This is how I would have suggested, had Nick not said so first

:hysterical: Oh dear Barry, you're letting us in on that side of your life are you?

Some jobs are just best left to the pros

My cooler is the same as Bishbosh describes. The hoses run under the rad, but above the cross member. The bogbrush is mounted about mid height of the main rad to keep it out of the worst of the muck. May have some pictures at home.

Hi Matthew, I understand your reasons for wanting to change your seating, but bear in mind that if you change the side facing seats to forward facing, you will only get 2 seats in the back, not 4. This means you will then have a 7-seater, which I see will suit you for now... To change the second row centre seat belt to a full 3-point belt, you could fit the seats from a later model Ford-engined Defender, as they do have this feature. I doubt this will be a cheap option. I am not aware of any retro fit kits to achieve this requirement.

You've made me want to watch it now, damn you I don't have Discovery channel, so I'll have to just keep reading this thread

The seller reads like a far more genuine person than many that try to sell trucks that MAY BE of questionable origins Whether this is all legal is a difficult one to determine, it largely depends how long ago it was built. If it was done long enough ago (pre SVA/IVA) then it could well be OK, until you start adding up the points according to the old system (don't know if this still applies today or not). I cannot see that there is enough of any one car (by his information) to enable the use of a K (1972) reg plate. Disco is 1989 on, so that's out. Axles aren't enough to provide a vehicle identity. What years were SIII lightweights produced? The only remaining part of the lightweight appears to be the body, so again not enough point by the old system to retain the LtWt's I.D. The only area of this truck that is questionable (IMO) is the number plate and tax exemption status. Otherwise it could well be a genuinely good vehicle. I went through the tax exemption and vehicle identity hoops in depth many years ago (guessing at 1995), with a mate who stuck a 88" LR body on his 1971 RRC (shortened chassis). The truck was inspected by VOSA (or whoever they were back then) in Guildford to determine the origins of the parts used. He ended up being allowed to keep the RRC registration (tax exempt), BECAUSE EVERYTHING EXCEPT THE BODY was from his original RRC. They provided a covering letter of explanation to satisfy any bodies that chose to question its authenticity (police/MOT man/future buyers etc). The log book description read 'Range Rover with Landrover body'. It was insured as a modified Range Rover.

My first screwcutting was on a small Boxford that had been converted to single phase, and as a result had no reverse, therefore disengaging was unavoidable. This is not the end of the world, you just have to re-engage at the right point Also being a small, low powered machine meant using the compound slide to cut on just one side was more of a necessity. You can do surprisingly big jobs on little lathes with the right techniques

Don't forget one of the joints will be a left handed thread.

Ah, table duty.

Grrrrrr!!!!!! Poor timing :-( We will be on holiday that week. Oh and there's the small matter of getting my engine back together. Somehow the first issue kinda makes the second seem insignificant.

Wow!! What awesome scenery! Great pictures too. This really makes me want to go on a trip like this. Maybe next year, depending on family situations and available suitable vehicles... Did Chris find a passenger in the end?

Sounds like you have it spot on Rob. Still late to comment on this, but if the OP purchased with a credit card surely the CC company could have provided some help to get a refund

Link works fine for me. Yes it is Parkside gear. The compressor looks like a good deal for a 3HP unit.

You could use four of them (paired), as appears to be the latest tend in anything 4x2 or 4x4 with big horses

Good one Nige

We bought an ex-demo 1987 90 TD CSW. It had about 3000 miles on when we got it. IIRC list price was around £13k for that spec. Hope that helps.

General Grabber TRs in 235/86x16 were a common factory fitment on Defenders. They wear extremely well (mum managed 60k before replacing front pair on her 110),and have good road manners too, not to mention good mpg. They're also perfectly capable down a green lane

You can do this in one go, but as Simon has said, it's a majorly heavy lump. I used a trolley jack to take the weight of the assembly, but you will find the weight of the steering arm will want to make the whole lump tip forwards, and it becomes really awkward to handle I'm not saying don't do it, just be prepared for a wrestle Oh and take care not to damage the seal inside the axle end!

Haha! Google Sketchup is free! I'd be pretty unhappy if I didn't get much better result from a several £K CAD package

Solidworks. We're on 2011 at the moment.