If the Main beam flash works, then the blue / white main beam line must be connected correctly, so there should be no reason why the normal push-away doesn't work. I therefore suspect the switch.
Sure? The fault described points to the switch, unless the 1993 models have a relay somewhere?
Yes it will.
Where's the fun in that? With scrappy bits you'd have to find all the right bits, which might mean two or three trips, then all that fudging to get them to fit and the result probably wouldn't work as well as taking a hammer to the windscreen ...
Ah. Gotcha.
Hat!
Its part of the engine loom - connects to a grey multiplug above the clutch master cylinder. Wire is white / brown and should emerge just aft of the injector pump near glow plug level.
Mine was an Adwest exchange unit via K Motors in Leyland (aka LRdirect.com) and its been fine so far, though I understand their mail order side can be questionable.
12% is about right for running 7.50 x 16 tyres with the speedo pinion for 6.50 x 16 tyres: did the 110 ever have 6.50s as standard?
You can change the speedo pinion quite easily (he says, it took me days to get the little carrier out).
IIRC the right pinion for 7.50 x 16 is blue.
What's under the plate depends on the exact type of box, could be an O ring or a gasket.
The concensus on here and elsewhere is that just slapping new seals in doesn't work for long, as the shafts wear out etc. A legit recon 'box should be around £175 to £225 and are pretty much good as new ( ).
If the Freelander uses the BS AU7 colours, then:
Black - ground
Green / red - left indicators
Green / white - right indicators
Green / brown - reverse lamp
Green / purple - stop lamps
Red / yellow - fog lamp
Red - side and tail lights
Oi! That's my joke!
(I didn't take it personally anyway. *sniff*)
At least you could use the part numbers on the link as a shopping list for real, non-dairy bearings and those special-order oil-resistant oil seals
Sorry to hear about all this, I hope you get it all sorted out quickly and easily.
The trouble with series and Defenders is that they are big kits anyway, so people will "play".
Hope we've been some help, and this hasn't put you off too much!
Let us know how you get on.
Regards,
Errol.
It's a bit like the stuff that comes out of the kitchen tap, but it falls from the sky
Anyway, I have it on good authority it snowed in Jo'burg at least once in the last two years 25 months
NO!
Start at the steering wheel:
There are two UJs in the engine compartment on the steering shaft - these can wear
The steering box can wear (there is an adjuster on top, see recent thread)
The drop arm can get loose on the bottom of the box
The drop arm ball joint can wear
The track rod ends (TRE) wear
The Panhard Rod bushes, bolts and bracket holes can all wear.
Get an assistant to wiggle the wheel while you work down the list!
I can't believe "no shims" was correct, but you never know! Your's sounds like a good plan, and I'm sure if you post up a plea for extra ones someone will have some in a shed somewhere
Its so long since I did this to mine I can't remember what I used