errol209

Thought so too Ralph, but wasn't sure enough. Chris, handily, there is a parallel thread going that might be useful.

1. Pass 2. If you're not in a rush, assemble the swivel minus shims and adjust the top bolts to get the right resistance, then measure the gap with a feeler gauge. Buy shims that are 90% of this value plus 2 off the second thinnest and 2 off the thinnest (or some spread like that, provided you can make up thicknesses both sides of your measured value). 3. Yes, but probably different amounts under each side ...

x2 ^^^ This big groove by 'ere:

It'll probably go, the other way round ...

Also check the steering column UJs for play while you're down there.

I'm with LD on the tax disc. The DVLA site is fed off their database, so they and HM Constabulary think it has no tax ... IVA guidelines The above link takes you to the BritGov words on radically modifying your car. Given that whoever re-built the 88 with "some" 90 parts "radically altered" the following: chassis - a coil sprung chassis was not available for the series III 88" suspension - coils instead of leafs axles - 90 axles are a different track, have CVs and disks on the front transmission - new box is five speed steering assembly - the 90 almost certainly has PAS engine - the 2.5TD was not available in 1977 You will have some paperwork to do!

It isn't an 88 but it has a Series III VIN! The MOT isn't relevant to whether the mods were declared or not, just that it passed the MOT. You need to get all the details straight with the DVLA (weight, engine size, VIN, etc.) first, which may need the current version of the SVA inspection (a hybrid adult will be along shortly) The strips you found are the lockers for the power steering. another giveaway it isn't an 88. look a bit further forward of these, nearer the bumper. IMHO you have bought a right little pot of problems! Errol

More thoughts and another question: What is the VIN number (minus the last five digits - we don't need them), and is the same number stamped: - on the bulkhead inside the vehicle; - on the right hand front spring hanger; - on a plate riveted to the top of the brake pedal box in the engine compartment; or - on the right-hand side of the chassis forward the spring mounting turret? You can check what these numbers mean yourself here. If it is a 1977 machine is will be an eight-digit number with some suffix letters, if it's actually a 90 it will start SALLDVA I think someone has borrowed an SIII chassis number and added it to a 90 (and not told anyone).

I have now gone deaf Just check out the "DJD" video, from about half way through ...

Good thoughts, and you can also (later) replace the Defender drop arm (and drag link) with the Discovery versions, which has a TRE = no more faffing.

The only way I've ever got the arm off (after a few years on) was by giving it a little local encouragement with Mr Big Lump Hammer, a distant rugby-laying cousin of LR special tool No.1. Les' method with the arm still on the box would mean tapping the insert out from the bottom upwards, I can see why you're struggling. You might get it to go a little easier by heating the ball joint end of the arm with a blowtorch to make it expand, but don't go mad, and watch out for your paint and hoses.

Er ... it looks like a 90, you say its on coil springs, it has a 2.5TD and a 5-speed box - it isn't a 1977 motor. Without fear of contradiction, it is a 90 and dates from (almost certainly) post-1985. What happens if you put the reg into here? As to the two q's - 1. its a worn 2.5TD, welcome to the club and 2. it could be master cylinder, slave, or the pushrod about to go through the fork ...

http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=41282 http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=49852

If its any decent quality, it should come with NBW (nuts bolts and washers). If not, most of them are are M6. Page 986 onwards in the 90 parts book is a good guide to assembly (997 in the 110 book shows a different style).

118dB at 2m. Pricey though. This is my favourite though - 123dBA at 1m - a touch under the threshold of pain. Loses points for not being very musical.

Once seen at a hot air ballon meet; A "THE BEST 4x4xFAR" sticker; In the back window of a rag-top airportable; Edited (with a sharp knife) to read: "THE BEST 4x4xAIR"

One decent photograph and we should be able to tell! The traditional Perkins mods are the <mighty> 4-203 and 4-236 monsters. edit - found out what the numbers mean (cylinders - cubic inches)!

Given that (thankfully) the steering and transmission* aren't connected up, we're all safe for the moment. * And I'd guess neither is the footbrake, handbrake or clutch. Oh and the lack of seats is a bummer.

On the (only) plus side, £200 for a 3.5 V8 (assuming it works) and some axle parts isn't bad... Monster Truck, but without any of the key Monster Truck features. Wahey!

The brushes will be at the non-shaft end, but the end plate will be holding the rotor central in the magnet assembly so don't go pulling it off just yet! I notice that Britpart don't list brushes as spares - do already have them? Are there two screw-in covers / plugs directly opposite each other, about 2-3cm in from the "back" end? If so these are probably the access to the brushes. If not, then I have no idea at all

Check the tracking next (use the string method listed in the technical archive section of this forum - dead easy) and then get underneath and give the panhard rod / radius arm bushes a good wiggle with a bar to see if there is any play in them.

All the parts book links Just the 90 one The right section for the question

To the right of the fusebox, there should be an oval bung / grommet in place.pages 577 and 578 of the 90 parts book shows it all loosely aligned.

Sounds like you might have to have a seperate filter and single-stage high pressure pump in the engine compartment, and change the in-tank pump for a single-stage low pressure jobbie. I can see where the expense comes in!

Left hand vertical side of the driver's footwell on a RHD car, IIRC.