errol209

The circuit goes from the battery to the headlight switch to the fuses to the lights. If the fuses are live then it means the wiring and switch is OK (the switch is a bad design) and that the fault is with the wiring from fuses to earth via the lights - half as much wiring to check. There is a fuse for each headlamp filament - four in total.

I can only think of obvious things! If you stop the engine and wiggle the inlet adaptor on the servos off, do they hiss loudly? Are the slave brake cylinders angled up to allow it to bleed OK? Have you got the brake lines on the slave cylinders in the right holes? Have you got the brake lines on the master cylinders in the right holes? Early S3 (non-servo) MS are pull operation, later are push.

Or just Google the part numbers Ralph has given you. If you put your location (country / island / state / city) in your signature this will help us help you too.

Or an anchor ... That vintage of vehicle has a valve which actively reduces the rear brake effort under hard deceleration, to prevent the back axle locking up Upgrading the front brakes would make more sense, but the view of the LR4x4 'hood is that drilled and slotted disks aren't necessarily a good idea on an off-road car, so you'll need bigger disks, bigger pads and more caliper effort.

It sounds like the servo assist isn't, but two not working is very odd. Master cylinder bore will affect the mechanical advantage of the system (big bore shifts more fluid, but the area is bigger so less fluid pressure for a given pedal / lever force; small bore is higher pressure but less flow - which is what disc brakes need). A way round it is to change the lever ratio, so that there is more of your bit of the lever than the master cylinder gets (if you follow). The Milner site shows levers with a ratio of about 10:1? However, as your servos are remote, they only work on fluid pressure anyway, so they should be doing some good ...

Are you getting 12V at both ends of all the headlight fuses?

Sounds like the "new" battery is completely flat! Try leaving the jump leads on with both cars running for 30 minutes, or stick it on the charger overnight. (also make sure the battery terminals are clean (careful use of wire brush) and the cable clamps are firmly done up)

Check the earth strap from engine to chassis, and the battery connection to the gearbox. Where are you connecting the jump lead earth to?

Photo 1 - No idea why this is like this. Whats on the end of the white wire?? Photo 2 - that's item 84 on my plan, auxilliary instrument connector (sits behind the middle dash panel) Photo 3 - Item 7, the engine connector on the left, the 4-pin bit on the right is bodge Photo 4 - part of the bodge in 3 Photo 5 - no idea - unwrap and multimeter? If its the alternator warning light resistor (12 on diagram) its about 1kohm Photo 6 - thats where the alternator warning light resistor (12 on diagram) should be Photo 7 - plugs 40 and 38 or 39 on the diagram Photo 8 - No idea. LGR is part of the headlamp wash, but it could it be GR? (Indicators ) Photo 9 - (relays) Aftermarket mods, them are Photo 10 - ditto Photo 11 - connector 11 (dim dip nonsense) Photo 12 - interior lamp (item 44) Photo 13 - pass. Photo 14 - former site of the brake light switch (68 on the diagram) Photo 15 - dash - Yellow/ black is for the choke light (36-65) Purple/orange - seat belt warning (59-1) L.Green/red - headlamp wash circuit (99-89) Purple/blue - Interior light (44-45) Slate/black - can't find it Black/slate - split charge circuit (41-102) Brown/white - can't find it White/green - can't find it Black/green - earth line for start relay 71 Numbers refer to wiring diagram pdf, and pairs of numbers are runs between items. Hope some of that helps?

FF - early 90 wiring diagram from owner's book: 90wiring.pdf I recognise a lot of the pics, I'll try and go through them when I get to work.

Welcome to both the forum and Land Rovers. The answer to your first question is "Buy shares in Waxoyl"!

They're M12 or 7/16"BSF - an 18mm spanner/socket fits this, or 19mm for the M12.

Wahey!

I am advised that an epoxy-based garage floor paint (like what International make) will be good, provided you hoover all the dust up properley first . If the upper surface is already cracking up, then you will need to re-screed it

Yes, and make sure the yokes on each end of the prop itself are lined up or at 90o to each other. And what Mr Anaconda said too (I couldn't remember if props still came with those neat little arrows )

Did you take one end of the prop away from the other to do this? If so, you may have spoilt the "phasing" by rotating one end relative to the other.

The longer black strip nearest the foreground is part number 331203, available in Venezuela for a couple of dollars (From the S3 parts book, pdf page 20 onwards).

Just a few things to cover all the bases, but these are so unlikely: - Try priming it with the fuel filler off (blocked tank vent) - Will it prime or run if you put the fuel line in a can of petrol rather the tank? - If so, remove the dip tube from the tank and give the gauze a good clean (sludge in the bottom of the tank, you will have to drain it to clean it out) If none of those work then the pump has failed They do come apart if you're curious ...

Depends on your VIN number: But I'm guessing FRC8386?

The way technology prices fall (just look at PC memory [£100 per megabyte in 1993], blue LEDS [£7.50 each in the mid 90s]) it won't be long before they are into the realms of "vaguely affordable"

Try the 90 / 110 parts books under "bodywork and fittings".

Panhard Rod and associated brackets

^^^ I agree!

Def 300 fr(ont) 637(mm) From the same post: Defender 200 front 685(mm), the same for a 2.5TD (it's the same gearbox / transfer box?) Does that help?