errol209

You'd be proud just to have been involved in one of those cars in the article, I think. The enduring (and increasing) popularity of the Rangie is the best epitaph possible. RIP Spen, we will remember you.

Auto Electrical Supplies (AES) Vehicle Wiring Products (VWP) Halfrauds Your local vehicle electrical place (try in Yell.com)

I'm With Les (that ought to be a t-shirt!) on this. For many good reasons (like fatigue, getting the f**cker out later, etc.) you don't want to subject the M10 bolt to bending, so the JATE ring should be flush up to solid chassis both sides. You want the bolt to work in shear only - washers won't stop the bolt bending.

You need a relay, as you don't want to put any extra load on the LR lighting switch. Try post #2, first diagram edit: Damn, too slow.

Dog clutch not engaging with the gearbox output shaft, possibly because you've assembled it backwards or the selector fork isn't set up right or the detent isn't holding it in. The only other interface is the pump to the PTO adapter shaft : you have all the right parts in the picture. How exactly did he measure the RPM values? With the pump on or off?

BUT, the photo above shows a standard 1:1 PTO adapter housing, just like mine. All it has in it is a dog clutch onto the back of the main box output gear, so it should run 1:1 with the engine in 4th. To only get 2l/min, my guess it that it (the pump) isn't engaging with the gearbox output properly.

No, just don't connect it all.

I just hope he lives to keep telling them

Many years ago, the local Genuine Stealer was a five minute walk from the office, so It made sense to call in there first for obsucre bits for the SIIa. They then moved premises, but not before telling me that they used me as a training aid for new parts desk types! Not all Stealers are the same, but some can be a bit snooty. These days mail order and Eblag should have put 10,000V through their customer service, but alas not and the business goes to the independents. All that said, I doubt I could get any parts for a 45 year old Skoda from my local Skoda dealer!

Black goes to ground Purple / brown is the output to the flasher (left/right) selector switch (light)green / purple goes to the indicator repeater light on the dashboard and then to ground (light)green / pink goes to the trailer warning light on the dashboard, then to ground (light)green / brown goes to the fuse supplying the indicators (ignition switched unless you want to be able to indicate wih the ignition off) This disctription assumes you DON'T have a hazard switch: The wiring is a little different if you do.

The debate is about the materials used and fabricated nature of the RDS arms - I don't think we would have the same concerns with a good quality cast arm of similar proportions to the LR one but with a slightly different geometry (e.g. a bit of a bend at the trailing end, where the bending forces are virtually zero and it's all shear forces).

Temp gauge - correct, but the gauge has an earth too (probably for the illumination). Fuel gauge - correct: you can earth the gauge anywhere (the wiring diagram shows an earth harness behind the dash for this, but again I suspect its for the illumination circuit, not the fuel gauge itself) Both gauges are fed from the same green wire, the temp wire is green/blue and the fuel sensor line is green/black.

Anyone's eyes NOT watering?

In a previous phase of my career we used 16" petrol disc saws to cut railway rail, mounted on hinged arms to keep the blade true in the cut. These things are insane two-stroke-scooters-with-blades-on jobbies, and I have witnessed more than a few occasions where the operator hasn't spotted that the rail wasn't supported currectly under the cut. This leads one side of the cut rail (just like your trailer rib did) slipping near the end of the cut, the blade jamming, 25kg of throbbing tool taking to the air, the blade shattering and everyone within 20m getting peppered with hot disc fragments (and in one case giving the operator an upper-cut which broke his jaw) To avoid this, oxy-propane cutting is used where there is any doubt at all about the stress situation, and disc saws only where everything is known.

334121 - its an old number!

Dodgy phyicist I might be, but I have come accross "fitness for purpose" (and "reasonable skill and care", "due diligence" and "ensure" and other interesting phrases) in my line of work. The Sale of Goods Act (and more here) requires the item to be of fit for purpose - failure like that after 4 days is not compliant (unless, as others have already pointed out, your application (lift, tyre size) was specifically excluded). EU law says it must last 6 months or it is considered to have been unfit in the first place (but see above about correct usage), so you are entitled to at least a refund - small claims court is really easy and I'd be really surprised if you didn't win, with compensation for time and effort, with costs. I can't see why putting "off road use only" should stop you, all it does is stop him having to get CE or similar approval for the product - another good pointer that the design phase for these radius arms was probably the length of time taken to put pen to envelope.

Linky A bit cheaper Neoprene closed cell foam isn't cheap - my 90 cost 50 squids for 8mm all over from PAR in Bamber Bridge (Lancs). It is the mutts gonads though (and fire retardent, which is v.good)

Braking force as assumed is 2500kg x 9.81ms-1(F=ma) or (say) 25000N. This is applied to the axis of the axle by a lever arm equal in length to the radius of the wheels or about 0.5m which gives a torque at the axle axis of 12500Nm (bugger, factor of 10, well spotted) or 12.5kNm. At the radius arm bolts (say 10cm from the axle axis) this is a force of 125kN, or 62.5kN per radius arm (my original number was about right, the units were wrong) which is about 6.25 tons or 3.125 tons per bolt. Yep, sorry first shot maths wrong, but answer correct. The forces are huge. In reality this assumes no back brakes and sportscar braking (over estimate) but I would use these kind of numbers for design, I really would.

Aha, in that case the explanation is that the extra load of the split charge coil would have fooled the alternator regulator into thinking that the battery had about 8V in it and tried to compensate by increasing the output voltage until it blew itself up! SimonR, a cure here would be to include a low current draw sensor for the ignition warning light line, which would in turn drive the split charge relay. I'm thinking a biggish transistor with a few protection diodes? You only need to source an amp or so to flip the split charge relay. The kit could then be fitted with impunity to anything.

At the (small) risk of spoiling a (good) joke, the G valve has a ball bearing in it. The harder you decelerate the harder the ball is pressed forwards to try and keep the pressure in the rear circuit below the point where the back wheels will lock up. The valve is fitted at a specific angle (front end up) to stop it activating too soon.

If I follow this thread correctly, then the older ACR type machine sensed alternators (which have a 12V brown cable, a warning light wire and possible a tacho connection to the W terminal) are OK, but the battery sensed alternators (which have an additional thin wire from between the alternator and battery) are not. Yes?

If I may? The torque produced at the radius arm bolts under maximum braking (a slightly conservative 1G assumed, no help from the back wheels) for a laden 110 (say 2500Kg) would be of the order of 100kNm (100000Nm), or half this per radius arm. This is the equivalent of 5 tons on a 1m lever arm - repeatedly. Until I did this calc I too thought that the LR arms looked a bit heavy, but not any more!

... or follow the stream of careworn series, 101s and 90/110 machines down any motorway within 50 miles of the place on the Friday afternoon!

Was going to go, if only to meet up with Ross, but broken leg means no play for 3 months . Hope the surgeon went back to good metal before he welded the repair parts on...

I'll bet this is the infamous diode-in-the-charge-warning-light-circuit problem - do you get a voltage reading on the fuel solenoid wire even when you turn the ignition off? If so you need to mod the charge warning light wiring so that the alternator doesn't hold the solenoid open. There is a thread which i will try to find while you go and do the measurement ... EDIT: This one!