errol209

Er... the right switch has five terminals ... Item 48 on the attached (also connector 39) 90wiring.pdf

No seperate relay, just the switch. It uses the main flasher unit, which from what you say works fine. I'd suspect the permanent feed to the hazard switch (green or purple), the age of the flasher unit (struggling to flash all the indicators, OK with two or three) or the hazard switch itself. I have a spare switch, £5 and postage, PM me if interesed.

They are supposed to have locking tab plates under the heads, part number 572077, 2 no. required.

There are degrees of writing-off (A,B,C and D) and I am just wanting to be prepared (hypothetically). It could be that it is economical if the labour element is zero (me).

No comment on the new hole idea, but the last time we had this question, Western ended up Dremmelling it out, but I can't find the thread.

You're right - no values! I'd go for 75Nm both ends, if its good enough for the back?

OK, hypothetical question time. Let's imagine that my step-daughter pulled out at a junction in my pride and joy and was struck by a Zafira car doing about 25mph. Imagine that I can could repair the wing, winch bumper, front lights, lack of door fit, etc. My question is this: does the world make a front RH (offside) chassis repair section, new, including the whole front crossmember, rad pillars, engine mount, spring mount, PAS box holes, etc. all the way back to the bulkhead outrigger. If the hypothetical answer to that is yes, do they do mail order and will would they stamp my VIN on it for me??? Obviously this hasn't happened yet, so no photos

This is the table from the 2A owners book, and the numbers seem to make sense at least:

What about the rest of Xmas? Anyway, welcome Yavuz!

Really really really badly worn front radius arm bushes (and I mean virtually gone)?

Can you punch the clutch slave cylinder pushrod through the standard clutch fork - yes. Does this happen on older 90/110s - yes. Does changing the MC make it worse - not directly, but it might mean you can put a bit more pressure on it. The fork would have to be dodgy anyway to fail.

My bad. I must get round to downloading the right-way-round pdf ..

32 front / 32 rear unladen, but I have seen 34 / 34 recommended.

Drum roll ... STC491 and throw everything else away

The constant pitch bit probably rules out the engine, gearbox, drive train, axles, diffs and wheels, cos I can't think of anything that gets to a maximum at 15mph and stays there? Could you get a recording or video sound track of it for us? I'm a bt stumped (have you tried the lights test I suggested above?)

And the note changes with speed too: Have you broken down again -> we'll never get there -> doesn't go very well -> why is it so noisy -> slow down I can't hear myself think -> (shouted) How many MPG does it do at this speed? (covers 0 - 50 mph)

Hmmm... my first guess is actually something electrical . If you turn all the lights and heated stuff on and then off while driving at 15mph what happens?

Just in case you haven't found it: The Wobbly Steering Diagnoser Good luck!

Mind boggling. From the write-up I'm surprised the itemised bill didn't include a bung to the mechanic's supervisor!

I can't begin to imagine ***tpart's response to that invitation! I think the various companies represented on here get quite enough advertising, for free, with the blessing of the rest of the membership No problem if companies and traders want to offer discounts to their friends from the forum (you could view it as pay-back for the help and encouragement we give ) but I'm with the concensus - we are beholden to no-one and that means freedom to get on with being the No.1 friendly and balanced source of LR related wisdom (other makes of 4x4 are available) on the web. </twopenneth>

No UJs - CVs on the front of a Disco. Is the knock always there while moving, or just when you turn, brake or accelerate?

Couldn't tell you if FRC3602 is longer than 509045P, but FRC3602 is, IMHO, the right bolt for the rear output flange to UJ bolt on the transfer box.

Wahey! Glad you found the issue. I agree with the above, give 'em a good greasing (they are a poor design - no nipples anywhere ). I suggested WD40 to test only, I don't recommend it as a long term fix either!

Sorry, didn't mean to press reply. While I'm here tho, I agree, its the switch

A power zener? It would take some fiddling to get it conduct at the right point in series with a relay coil though